Mad Russ Posted April 6, 2006 Report Share Posted April 6, 2006 I've been building a 200SX S13 for track use. The chassis should be fairly well sorted. I've got Apex coilovers with 32way adjustable dampening, adjustable preload and adjustable ride height, front adjustable top mounts and rear adjustable upper arms. I also have 17" wheels with 215/45/17 Toyo Proxes TS-1 But where to start with setting it up? I know that it's probably best to fine tune on the track but I'm not sure how dampening, tyre pressures and geometry affect the handling. Any advice behind the theory and on a good starting point? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted April 6, 2006 Report Share Posted April 6, 2006 I've been building a 200SX S13 for track use. The chassis should be fairly well sorted. I've got Apex coilovers with 32way adjustable dampening, adjustable preload and adjustable ride height, front adjustable top mounts and rear adjustable upper arms. I also have 17" wheels with 215/45/17 Toyo Proxes TS-1 But where to start with setting it up? I know that it's probably best to fine tune on the track but I'm not sure how dampening, tyre pressures and geometry affect the handling. Any advice behind the theory and on a good starting point? Hello Mad Russ. I personally have to take a back seat on the suspension set-up but many here are well educated on the topic. The Theoretical is born from the missing elements like wheel/KPI off-set and other areas like sway bars/braces etc....then there is the need to understand what the driver requires the car to do..... in addition i would need to know exactly how adjustable the car is.... seemingly the camber and toe front and rear is catered for but is there any castor adjustment available? Also never be ashamed to image another persons provan positions and re-construct them to suit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Russ Posted April 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2006 All the bits that are adjustable I have listed. It is likly to be upgraded again in the future but not for a year or so. Everything else is std. What I'm after is a good balance of handleing for tracks like Cadwell Park and Castle Coombe. I'm not fussed about tyre wear to much as it's likly to eat tyres on the track anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scorps Posted April 7, 2006 Report Share Posted April 7, 2006 I've spoken to a few people that have done track/drift days and its not surprising to hear that they guard against sharing info relating to set-up as they dont want to give to much away,so it seems its a trial/adjust as you go basis and as you know each track will be different. And they say motor sport is a friendly environment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted April 7, 2006 Report Share Posted April 7, 2006 All the bits that are adjustable I have listed. It is likly to be upgraded again in the future but not for a year or so. Everything else is std. What I'm after is a good balance of handleing for tracks like Cadwell Park and Castle Coombe. I'm not fussed about tyre wear to much as it's likly to eat tyres on the track anyway Taking the Geom by the horns: The camber rear after lowering probably rests between 1 degree 30' to 2 degree's, assuming they are even then i would commit to that position.... personally i desire slight toe out at the rear in the area of 8' per side. The front is another issue.... Camber i feel needs to be respected at near to stock.... say 1 degree neg, this will lower the Castor slightly by about 30' and reduce the turning radius, but retain the toot... also i would add to the front toe resulting at 10' per side...then test it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Russ Posted April 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2006 Am I right in thinking that the damping should be less at the front and more at the rear and by stiffening the front it will start to turn in faster but loose cornering grip? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted April 9, 2006 Report Share Posted April 9, 2006 Am I right in thinking that the damping should be less at the front and more at the rear and by stiffening the front it will start to turn in faster but loose cornering grip? Suspension experts where are you!............. Weight transfer and roll centre are very active as i am sure you are aware.... to me geometrically i would want the reactive balance to be near to 55/45 f/r ......... the car will need to be loose at the rear comparitivly to encourage over-steer from a stable geo, so basically you would depend on the application of thrust during 'turn on and out' with negative rear transfer, the diagonal resistance negative = 10% at the front, the actual lbs i have no idea... but i would assume high? In reality we have two topics here (suspension and Geometry) these really should be investigated independently, a marriage between the two for solution in any one thread is to complicated to be of real value. Split the topic 1: Suspension: setting/ rate/ road/ race 2: Geometry : positions/ forces/ reactions/ development Each one is a 'stand alone' debate and will offer a better overview. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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