Bazza

Less throttle My Civic Type R is pretty bad though you can drive around it. Obviously not a problem on the MR2. Got any pictures of the driveshaft? First thoughts were a CV joint but i think that would be a bit more obvious... its in the middle of the shaft funnily enough it was the cv boots i was changing is about 3" round , pretty solid rubber, and has a groove in the shaft to locate it

hard to tell when on the dyno at janspeed it was pretty much as standard, boosted to 0.6 (as per factory settings) but due to free flowing decatted exhaust it then creeped to 1bar reached 130 bhp and 121 torque now reaches 125 bhp and 145 torque before the boost drops off actuator is now HKS which should be set at 1bar never really had chance to use before the latest mods so hard to tell using toyota ct9 which are fairly well known to be able to take 1bar am now thinking along the lines that if the actuator is set lower than 1 bar and the initial boost level is just spiking, and then the actuator kicks in, all but at a lower than supposidly set level anyone ?

Sounds like it could be the fuel cut defender starting to cut in. Do you have the car remapped through a piggy-back ECU? Maybe needs tweaking a little. no fuel cut ! managed by e-manage car is mapped to 1 bar in an attempt to solve the problem all factory solonoids were removed actuator is simply controlled by an in-line valve

we all know about torque steer ......well i think so so are there any measures to lessen the impact or improve driveability or is it something we have to learn to live with notice on my driveshaft a circle of rubber only on the long shaft though i was wondering what this is ? and what does it do ?

so i am not alone somehow thats comforting to know i keep getting a lot of "i dont knows"

got a problem with my starlet turbo runs fine up to 3500 rpm and reaches 1 bar boost after 4000 rpm the boost just drops off and by 7000 rpm its at 0.5 bar actuator is HKS set at 1 bar was informed that no leaks were present now generally they suffer with boost creep but this seems the opposite boost spike springs to mind, but its not boosting over what its meant to on a dyno it reaches peak power and torque by 5000 rpm, and yet it will happlily rev to 7500 rpm so has anyone got a clue ?

IS 200 with all mods declared £650, before any mods were fitted it was about £350 full NCB Starlet gt turbo various mods £350 (limited mileage 5000) 0% NCB!! NCB can be used on more than one car, i have three policies that have eminated from 1NCB they did draw a limit on the starlet for some reason

thats the one the one i had to turn up in a zafira was thanks ahmet and a few others that i still had a great day i do remember an mr2

going for a thrash at santa pod tomorrow what was my time...sorry...your time !! at brunters ?

tony got his hands on the starlet today felt a little squidgy, so thought best have it looked at well after some fantastic work by tony, it now feels a whole heap better unbelivable difference and is now driving like it never has before, a huge thank you to tony you are the man tony has also qualified as an anti roll bar fitter

what about some stickers for our cars bit of advertising for wim and we can say we have been wim`d

Crunchie what? bar

are you sure you are not just sitting on a crunchie

cant be a proper low rider if tony can get his prongs under your bits

i thought you were one us low riders

Simply no. The polar centre and the angular yaw would not move nor would the centre of gravity. The roll % would allow lateral possibilities but the conclusion is totally dependant on the driver.... knowing you it would be absolute.... and 'stiff' ooohh i like stiff think i will need a check soon, just worried that i might upset the geometry when they are put on mind you..its fingers crossed i get the car back this weekend

by replacing the ARB with a thicker/stiffer one will the geometry be affected ??

Seeminly not.... i know of a few from LOC who have had a de-cat and their cars still most the MOT.... just! most from LOC have only removed the pre-cats , the main cat remains, and will only pass the MOT if tested whilst hot the pre-cats are there to act as a primary cat untill the main cat reaches operating temperature

interesting reading what if there are two bands <<<<<<< as in over there

wheel nuts/bolts how tight should they be A. finger tight B. as tight as you can get them, using a scaffold pole as leverage it seems the norm for most tyre fitters to set their torque to its highest level, just so us mere mortals with hand tools have to break our arms trying to undo them again is there a rough guide on how tight they should be obviously one that wouldnt involve using torque settings as there not allways available

better check my eyesight i can only see "view new posts" at the top however i can see "todays active posts" at the bottom

keep your mits of my 888`s i have just changed from symetrical tyres to asymetrical on the zaffy also gone from 185x65x15 to 225x45x17 ive noticed road holding is far superior....but tramlining is more noticable but... it is so easy to wheelspin when pulling away, yet they offer far more grip in normal driving any explanations oh and the other day i noticed a nail head in the front right today i notice a screw head in front left are these tyres magnetic or what ! must remember to get them seen to if i can pick up a bit of wood in the rear , i will be able to put a shelf up

Look closely at the tyre were the drive shaft enters the hub..... that narrow band of white near the top is the inner construction of the tyre exposed due to the wear.... only 10mm wide but very deep in comparison to the rest of the tyre......... hence the 'silent killer'......... and horror of the week! now its pointed out .......

tony maybe the picture but .......whats wrong with it ??

You would have a 'Wilmslow' moment Sorry I'm sure someone with some knowledge will be able to answer this one and what is a wilmslow moment , or is that a personal thing