Tango

Green Stuff Extra benefits of sport rotors are not often spoken about but are very worthwhile. This is the effect the slots have on maintaining a flat smooth pad surface during the pads wear life. The slots encourage the pads to wear with a more flat pattern and the "Ribbing" common with non slotted rotors does not appear. This removes the "Record groove" effect of pads on plain rotors, particularly around the outer edge and helps pads maintain better contact area with the rotor through their life. As far as EBC is concerned this is the MAJOR benefit of sport rotors over all others as honestly speaking EBC pads have such a high temperature rating they don't NEED degassing. We test all pads to temps over 1000 degrees. I think the site i got the details from is the US one. Thanks for your info Mark, more valuable than relying on possible BS from their website. The 250 is heavy and has over 200bhp so think I'll try Redstuff when I change the pads. Probably change to grooved and drilled discs when the OEM's wear out too, as I have them on the IS200 with Mintex pads and the combination is slightly better than the OEM's.

I'm feeling hungry now :rolleyes_anim:

:rolleyes_anim:

Anyone used EBC Redstuff? I know EBC market Yellow Stuff for road & Track, also Greenstuff for road use, but wondered (dangerous) if using the Redstuff ceramic pads would lead to problems or adverse side effects. Here's the bumpf from EBC on the Redstuff: Since this material was introduced in late 2003, it has received many positive write ups from performance drivers of faster cars such as the Impreza. You can read some of these write ups and comparisons to other performance materials on www.scoobynet.co.uk and www.subiegal.com. This is a truly impressive fast road pad for repeated heavy braking. It emits far less dust than semi-metallic pads and has been proven to stop a saloon car 13 metres quicker than OEM pads from 100mph/160kph. Features EBC Brake-InTM surface coating which conditions rotor surface and accelerates pad bed-in. I'm just looking for pads that produce minimal dust. The Mintex pads I have on my IS200 are pretty good and produce less dust than the OEM pads, but these ceramic mix pads may be even better? :rolleyes_anim:

TK...nice car, but you're right it definitely needs lowering .. the 30mm drop is going to be fine. :graduated:

Hi TK, My IS 250 SE-L featured here has the Volks SF Winning 19" Alloys from Rays Wheels and is lowered on US Specification Eibach Pro Spring set part number 8288.140. There is a difference from the European spring set, which is why the part numbers are different. The US spec calls for a stiffer spring that has a progressive loading as opposed to the European which is manufactured from a lighter gauge that gives a non-progressive and softer ride (Eibach described them as static rather than progressive). Also the US springset gives 33mm drop on the front and 25mm drop on the rear whereas the European set is 30mm all round. Your choice, but Eibach UK did say they receive a lot of orders from Asia for the European Eibach springs. ...and as I've posted my latest pics on the LOC forum, I'll put 'em on here: :graduated: A clue to where the pics were taken:

So was it Mark that supplied the erroneous information on my Eibach's ??? The info came directly from Eibach themselves Yes, that's what I thought. I ended up talking to Eibach Germany main HQ to get a proper answer, as although Eibach UK were trying to be helpful the information i needed wasn't available to them. Anyway, it was sorted eventually and I'm very happy with the U.S specification springs.

Untill the wim shop folder is finished all sales are though the parent http://www.tdi-plc.com/ same price different location. No ford section on there! They don't do leaf springs :

Nice..can I change mine so you know which country I'm in...or perhaps just raise the Union Jack when I'm in residence. Who're you calling a Queen????

So was it Mark that supplied the erroneous information on my Eibach's ???

Saw a tyre exactly like that on a 4x4 Yank Tank motoring down Westheimer Road in Houston today...thought, that's odd I wonder what cause that? Now I know, thanks Tony.

Thanks Scorps...that was just Tony flashing again. Tint next...

Here's one I took when I did remember to put the Memory Stick in the camera

Tony...seeing you this week so perhaps we can discuss a design or two Wheels arrived from Japan (Rays Volks SF Winning) ...I like 'em, however despite the importer saying they were the same fitting as the OEM's they take a different nut and so I have to splash out on a new set of nuts (no rude remarks please) and lock nuts tomorrow. The Toyo's are on the new rims, and balanced

Without question yes! We need 3/4 degree US language, 45' @ 60' to a degree EU or 75' @ 100' again EU. The rear positions are fine... My only concern mentioned earlier is the rotation of the castor since the steering arm is now in front of the control arm... i fear the camber correction will lower the castor position, if it does then a deeper camber would be more desirable than a low castor despite the tyre wear.. Sorry but at the moment i don't have the computer power to calculate the correction parameters. Tony, I've managed to find the OEM Steering Geometry settings, but it's for the IS250 Non-Sport (not lowered) fitted with 18" Rims...any use? It's from a very reputable source but can't say where Front Geometry Toe: 07' +/- 14' Camber: 23' +/- 45' L/R Error 30' Max Caster: 8 degrees 04' +/- 45' L/R Error 30' Max SAI: 10 degrees 41' +/- 45' L/R Error 30' Max Wheel Angle: 41 degrees 34' +/- 2 degrees Rear Geometry Toe: 21' +/- 14' Individual Toe: 0'->17' Camber: -1 degree 14' +/- 45' L/R Error 30' Max ...and a special note ' When making adjustments ensure that the Thrust Angle is set as near to the Nominal "0" as possible. Vehicle Ride Heights must be checked and adjusted to Workshop Manual Specification prior to checking or adjusting of the Steering Geometry. End.

Due to the nature of the forum there is no real template to follow, in time areas like you mention will be assessed, point to remember wim is still very young. Might be worth thinking about though, I'm getting a little cheesed off with the repetition going on in the LOC forums...seems to be going round in a continual circle sometimes with subjects being repeated e.g. Jamboos recent post on the security barriers in Manchester town centre....I'm sure that was posted a couple of weeks ago. :

..Roger, if they will not deliver to the UK you could get it delivered to me in Houston. You've got until 16th November for them to deliver if you want to go that option, and I'll drop it off with Tony when I get back. It'll also avoid any duty at customs. Let me know and I'll pm my address in Houston, Texas.

I don't understand it... What i do know it has no relevance to Castor... the scale reads 8.7.6.5.4.3.2.1. This device has some relevant to COG and dynamic toe, but i fail to see the end result.. each time i read the advert i come up empty. Maybe the scale numbers have no actual meaning, rather, just a setting to be achived. Altering the relationship of the top and bottom arms will alter the reading. I think the ad is just a red herring! I can't find anything useful on the interweb so far. Just lots of people saying youy must do it! I concur.... Shall we shoot this one and name it time waster Simple answer...don't buy a 993 Can't go with either of those ideas sadly, as ive got to do one soon, and its got a nervous twitch from the rear. Suppose i will have to buy said device and read the instructions. Won't make any money on that job at $350!!!! You may do as I found another one for sale on the web, slightly used, with a price tag of $450 Can only assume the guy lost his original receipt, or if you're lucky they really do appreciate

I don't understand it... What i do know it has no relevance to Castor... the scale reads 8.7.6.5.4.3.2.1. This device has some relevant to COG and dynamic toe, but i fail to see the end result.. each time i read the advert i come up empty. Maybe the scale numbers have no actual meaning, rather, just a setting to be achived. Altering the relationship of the top and bottom arms will alter the reading. I think the ad is just a red herring! I can't find anything useful on the interweb so far. Just lots of people saying youy must do it! I concur.... Shall we shoot this one and name it time waster Simple answer...don't buy a 993

You beat me to it...I was about to post the same pic Why do you think it's only applicable to the 993?

Kinematic evaluation is a development environment far detached from our environment or the John Bean machine. I would describe the term more as a proving ground rather than a commercial tool aiding our field. The company displayed in the link i feel are using this generic term to justify cost to the customer.. £150+vat for the test only on the Bean is... well pants really! Josh Sadler used to run Autofarm, don't know if he still does but he wasn't one to rip anyone off. There's also a tool available for setting the kinematic toe..retails at $350 in the U.S No, I don't know how it works either. Kinematic Toe Tool for 993 This tool is a copy of the Porsche Motorsports part for setting the Kinematic Toe Adjustment on the rear of all 993 models. This is a critical adjustment that can dramatically affect the handling of the car. This tool requires and includes 4 allen head bolts to replace the factory rear brake caliper bolts. These are factory Porsche parts with the same dimensions and hardness as the original hex bolts. The Kinematic Toe Tool hangs from the round allen bolts. $350 includes tool, bolts, instructions and ground shipping (USA only).

Strange that our assumption was incorrect regarding the stiffer spring setting. The U.S being the one with a stiffer and progressive action. Eibach say the Asian specification for the 200/300 is also different from the European specification and they receive a lot of orders from Japan for the European 200/300 Springsets. It's a complete mystery to me why there's a difference at all, but Eibach gave me a clue in saying they work with various reputable Tuning Companies in each of the markets...presumably the variation comes from different requirements emanating from these Companies... Probably also explains why Eibach Germany will not share the U.S drawing with the U.K. I notice that TOMS are now marketing coilovers for the 250/350, but they are the same model for the GS and the 300 models...and they're $3,300 (1813 GBP). That's more than my wheels..can't justify that for a setting I'm unlikely to ever change. What do you think about the camber adjustment? We going need it or not with the 19" rims?

Tony, I received a reply from the emails I sent to Eibach, Germany stating there is no issue with the fitment, as the suspension parts are identical on the European and USA models. There is a difference in the spring sets, which is why the part numbers are different. The US spec calls for a stiffer spring that has a progressive loading as opposed to the European which is manufactured from a lighter gauge that gives a non-progressive and softer ride (Eibach described them as static rather than progressive). Also the US springset gives 33mm drop on the front and 25mm drop on the rear whereas the European set is 30mm all round. Eibach UK also spoke to me on the phone and apologised for not providing more details, but they only have access to the UK drawings as Eibach, Germany are reluctant to provide them with the USA drawings. They confirm there's no safety issue and the springs are covered under their warranty.

I've moved this answer to the correct thread....

I'm sure Tony will be along to put me right, but I think its a setting to take account of the forces imparted by the driving power of the rear wheels. There's also elastokinematic changes that need to be taken account of, which is the changes that can take place due to the compressability of the suspension rubber mounts on most road cars.....I found this on the web, but I don't profess to understand all of it!! http://www.ika.rwth-aachen.de/lehre/kfz-la...?PHPSESSID=0a3d