Rich

I think this is a browser issue, tried it in IE and it's fine, in firefox it's not...

That works now but looks like this! You might have to open the image in a new window. When I say incorporated I mean like a link to the gallery from the main forum so it makes people more aware it's there...

To start with I can't even access it now, says I don't have permission, either through the gallery link or my albums Also is it possible to incorporate it in the main forum as the only visual link is the gallery button up the top and I don't think it's getting used as much as it could. Just a thought!

Although mine is a MK2 I have lowered it 30mm on Eibach springs and it's improved the handling alot, more noticeably body roll and tramlining. Wasn't there some kind of handling issue on the MK3 with 18's anyway, I'm sure I read that somewhere? Welcome to WIM as well

there was a post askin that on MEG and the conclusion was that though it may work A/C will drain power so technically what it gaind by this would be counteracted by usin the A/C.but on a vayron has bunccle's of power so may not notice the A/C anyway Yeah I read that, was interesting...

I've got next week off work so anytime really. Was hoping to book the car into Kip's for the MOT next week as well if I get the repairs done this weekend. When you last set the car it was on the 16" wheels, could changing to the 17's have upset it a little? When you do a geometry you always input the wheel size into the computer so this must play some part in the calibration?

Plus he now has a hard copy from our print-out for them to return the chassis to. Don't main dealers get funny about using settings that aren't their own though?

So from the photos I've taken do you think the tyres will wear on the edges alot quicker than the rest of it? Would fitting the camber kit help or is it only the toe that can cause this kind of wear?

That's some way to travel!! How much would that have cost in fuel!!! I always thought that doing any kind of suspension work would change the work that had been done, even if it was only mimimal. But as a garage is doing the work they're obliged to check the geometry afterwards aren't they? Especially a main dealer...

Welcome to WIM mate, Tony is cetainly very helpful If you're changing the shocks/springs you will mess up all the changes Tony would have done. So it might be wise to go for that fine tune

How can that be then as when you measured/adjusted the toe it was all within the limits? I know I've recently changed that TRE but I had this wear before that anyway.

You think I need some then? The nut on the top mount isn't a nylock though which seems abit stupid to me! The one on top of the rubber cover is though. I've posted the pics of me tyres in the other thread

Only 30mm...could be rubbing, but then others have fitted 19s with 235/35 profile tyres to mondeos with no rubbing problems. Ok just had another look at the tyres and the rears have the same marks as well! Also I checked the pressures at 5am when it was chilly and they all read 28psi! Can the weather affect the pressures even when the car isn't moving as I'm positive me pressure guage is ok? I usually check them in the middle of the day when it's warmer.

Worth a try! Had another look earlier. The side that had the most play, the mount nut was tight, so I just put the spanner on to see if it would go any further. Once I raised the car it wasn't as bad, although there was some slight movement. Whole shock moves when moving the wheel. The other side, however, the nut was only finger tight, must've come undone Have tightened it back up and it still has some slight movement the same as the other side. As I have 30mm lowering springs on standard shocks, not shortened ones, could that be the reason I have a little bit of play when jacked up as the springs wouldn't be compressed that much? When I fitted the rears I didn't even need to compress the spring as I got the mounting plate and nut on just by pushing it down onto the spring! I think the hub nut is a bit loose as well on this side or the bearings going because there's some movement in all directions when pulling/pushing the wheel and it's only the disc that moves with it...I checked the lower ball joint and TRE and they're fine.

Here you go...what do you think then?

Thought I'd do a little update... Had the wheels for 2 months now and I check the pressures once a week/fortnight and only one wheel has lost half a psi in that time. Am really impressed with them Only downside is it takes abit longer to check them!

We can get them for you... The mount has an off-set spherical platform. As this is turned the strut position is displaced +- 45' or so. Well it give you abit more to adjust than just the toe! Would you fit them for free if I get them!!!

The tyre in the picture is the side that you couldn't fit the TRE to, which I have now done after changing it. I'll check the other side tomorrow when I change the pressures and get a few more pics...

If I do go for them could I but them from the WIM shop or only demontweeks? I can't seem to find any info on the Eibach site or what they look like/how they fit etc!

Well on previous wheels I've had anything over 33psi would cause more oversteer. I'll try 32psi and go from there. I was just a tad worried they may wear prematurely on the edges...

Yeah definitely inner and outer edge, will double check though! Will check the rear as well to see if it has the same marks. Tyre pressure is at 30psi all round, so I'll go to 32 tomorrow and see how that is...

I'm trying to think back to when I fitted the springs and I'm almost certain there wasn't as much play. I will check the nuts are tight enough tomorrow, don't have the right spanner on me now. If I do get the adjustable kit I really wanted to do it after the MOT when I've decided whether I'm poly bushing the lower arms or not so I can it all at the same time. So what kind of benefits would I gain from having the adjustable mounts? As when you last measured the car after it was lowered you said it was still within the camber range so should be ok.

Never thought of that, makes sense but then I don't corner that hard! The Toyo's are a soft compound though so maybe that's why

Tony - The play I told you about in both front wheels I think I've found the problem... I've noticed that the shock moves with one of them so I think the bearing/top mount are going. The other side the play is so minimal I can't tell if the shock is moving. Can lowering the car 30mm have any affect on them though or is it just wear and tear? They've covered 170K miles. I will put it through the MOT with these on but if it fails on them, I'm seriously considering the camber adjuster kit as I think new bearings/mounts from ford will be more expensive than the Eibach kit.

On the very edge you can see the strange mark. I have this on both tyres on the inner and outer sides. I'm taking a guess this caused by the camber being slightly different now the car has been lowered?