Mark H.

Unfortunately Tony that place is in wales. But from driving round and searching the web for somewhere in Leeds that has an alignment machine it may be the nearest place.

http://www.flashmetal.com/joint-assy-lower...front-242-p.asp Like that (thats for an mr2) a Lower ball joint perhaps? Are they tested at MOT time?

I've just had a new set of tyres on my MR2 and they do the same. Starting around 40 they start to vibrate, by 70 its pretty crazy. They were rebalanced by the same place today and they are the better now with only mild vibration on the wheel. The weights are inside the rim as they previously were. I might have them rebalanced again somewhere else later. I still cant find anywhere in Leeds to do a full geometry check on the car though .

I might go for the slightly wider ones next time then, not sure whether to change them all at the same time or not as they have a couple of mm left on the front. Need to find somewhere to do the geometry as well.

Does the speedo take its speed from the gearbox/rear wheels, and 205's wont upset the abs at all? 205/50's actually have a smaller rolling radius than the standard ones iirc.

I have these on my MR2, i also saw them on a 1969 5L Mustang i was parked next to yesterday as well. I actually need to replace the rears now as they are only a mm or 2 from 1.6 minimum, but one has continuously lost air faster than others and its noticeably flatter again at the moment both looking at and feeling through driving. The car noticably lifts up when its at higher pressure. The cars suspension is pretty rigid though, the whole car will stay stiff but wobble on the 50/55 profile tyres if you put your foot on an rock it abit. I need to find somewhere to fit some more (a full set from camskill is just under £200 not fitted for 4) and have a geometry check as i haven't had one done yet since i have owned it. Hopefully it is not the rear alloy that is letting air escape. Would you use 205/50 or just stick with 195/55 if you were using the standard rev 3 15's Jon? Regarding the person on your site with the IS, are these not known to have extreme inner tyre wear if not suitably set geometrically. That is hardly the tyres fault. I take it the rears are bald in the middle, that sounds like his tyres were overinflated, and the handling of the car seems to change alot with a 6psi shift on the Mr2 so perhaps they were set too high for the weight load. It sounds like that person needs to have his geometry checked and chack what would be the best tyre pressures for his vehicle. To the original poster, perhaps it would be worth changing your tyres psi and going for a short journeyto test. Changing the pressure up or down may help if the sidewalls have a diffferent resistance to the last ones you had, if you find it improves then keep a check on how evenly they wear and take it from there. Also is the weight index number high enough, and would the run out lines change the cars stability at the rear as well as at the front?

You need to have a wim meet when you get the new premesis and have a line of cars only in wim blue infront of it for literature etc.

I managed to do it on the mac, it was doing it in windows that didnt work, .

I tried to make an account password, well change a non exsistant one as it had set up an account for me when i payed for something else and didnt ask it too, and it gave the same error. Worked ok with safari though.

Hallelujah. I think bank transfer or cheque for me in future, i need a rest after that effort. I cant believe that something as big as paypal doesn't work with firefox.

Mac for the win.

Thanks, the screenshot on mac saves it to the desktop in a file, i forgot windows puts it on the clipboard instead of a file. This is what the page looks like. I deleted IE a while ago although its probably around somewhere.

Still says invalid data and page cannot be found on top, i am using firefox 2.0.0.6 . How can i do a screen capture in windows?

Just noticed the WIM shop sells ebc pads for the mr2 .

I posted this bit seperately so the first post (wasnt quite so) long. I think suspension struts may have to wait a while. How much do you think fresh struts and springs would improve the ride if the old ones were worn, and how much would they cost. And do you know anywhere in north yorkshire area that could do it reasonably cheaply. IE not £120 just for an oil change from toyota . Lastly for now, what would be a good oil to use. I think it has 10w40 at the moment and the engine had some kind of treatment just before i bought it, but is it best to go semi or fully synth. Its a n/a so there is no turbo to lubricate. Thanks, Mark.

The MR2 needs some new brakes, the old disks have quite a lip and i can hear one of them rubbing slightly when i turn left, possibly the rear n/s but perhaps the front one, so they need replacing sooner rather than later. I'm not sure what to go for. The standard ones seem to stop ok if you slam the pedal to the floor but otherwise they seem to lack a bit of confidence, ie you know they will stop pretty well, but it would be nice if you could feel that they definatly will. I had red stuff on my soarer and they stopped very quickly and i was happy with them, slightly wooden when cold in winter but as long as they still stop well that is fine. They gave out only a small amount of dust and i never had problems with fade in general driving or stopping 2 tonnes in an emergency stop either (if your van is 2 times as wide as the central reservation and there is nowhere to go on the other side, dont pull out accross 40mph traffic then block off the road .) So i am thinking of trying a set of those. They will work out a little under £100 for front and rear. I plan on a set of standard toyota disks, but are they about £300 for the set of 4 for a rev 3? . That would be about £400, then i have to find someone to fit them . Also is it worth fitting some braided brake lines, say goodridge, they are pretty good value from brakes4u, its just that i would have to wait for them to be made. Then when the disks and pads are replaced have the fluid replaced and blead through so its fresh, braided hoses or not. The car also needs an oil and filter change, and if its not too much then i was thinking of getting the spark plugs done as well, as i didnt notice them being changed recently in the history so if they are about £40-£50 fitted it would be worthwhile perhaps? Also is it worth changing the fuel filter? I think the air filter is some green cotton thing, so not sure whether to put an original one back in or not? What do you guys think. I gather Jon will know a fair bit, although i believe he is not particularly a Red Stuff fan.

I just tried to join Wim with a platinum membership and when you click the button to go to paypals site the page it brings up says Maybe i should stick to trying to fnd my cheque book .

Crazy. Someone got a good deal hey.

It usually takes 1-200 miles for tyres to start gripping correctly in my experience when they are on driven wheels. As far as i'm concerned the new tyres will have less grip at first so your more likely to get the back end out when they have just been put on. I just replace the worn ones, (nearly always the driven ones). They will wear in much quicker on the driven axle. The turning wheels will wear in quite quickly if they are pushed abit from the start though. In my experience. I ran 8mm look like new 3 year old not very grippy if there is any water near the road Michliens on the rear with Goodyear F1's on the front that were very grippy wet or dry and never had any problems in my Astra. Maybe having grippy tyres on the front and older ones on the back is a problem if you drive way too fast for the conditions.

A third version MX5 i think. NA, NB, NC.

What work did the garage do? Did they put a new tyre on it? It just looks like the tyre is designed with a rim protector so it sticks out slightly and should help cut down on wheel damage from curbs etc. Actually, it doesn't seem to have a gap all the way round it, only on one part, that is a bit strange i suppose, maybe take it back and ask if its ok if it doesnt have an even gap all the way round.

I saw a white countach earlier today going the otherway down a dual carriage way just got a glimpse of the roof and spoiler. An hour or two later i was waiting to turn right on a road, and it drove past, so i followed it for a while . You could feel the floor vibrating while he was sat idling at some lights. It had wide rear wheels as well. You could tell it wasnt thrilled doing only a few mph as we set of as you could tell he was on and off the clutch trying not too stall it going so slow, sounded good though when he drove off even though it was only slow with someone infront of it.

Welcome to wim . If you have a print out with the angles on that would probably help people work out what is a bit off if you were given a copy.

Do you have regular "That 70's show" dress up days at TDI :rolleyes_anim:.

Belts are cheaper than chains and chains can get a bit noisy. Belts themselves are pretty cheap but chains usually go for longer intervals and the labour get expensive whatever it is. Cheapness rules most of the time on new cars nowadays.