Vipercar93

Sounds good Tony! I think when I do eventually get to the point I am going to hit the track it will be worth loosening off the cross-memeber and straitening this out when I come to do the corner weighing and resulting re-alignment. I know it's not a huge deal, but long as it's in the air...

If it was me... I don't like how they use metal spikes and drive into the tyre. These are good for one set of tyres only, after that you have to put a new set on. You get a puncture, guess what! I always try to buy tyres with rim protection edges on them, though the econo tyres don't tend to have them.

I thought that was a pretty smart photo with the fuel pressure gauge and the part. Time is always a problem with any project =( Tony you gotta be chuffed to bits to see this thing closer to road worthy =)

Very lucky indeed =)

Sorry, didn't get back. The tap set is a cheapo, but should do for what you need. If you are getting some more OEM's don't worry about the micrometer. If you want to read threads though you would have needed a thread gauge.

LOL oldie but goodie =)

You still thinking about dropping an LS1 into it? IMO that would be the way to go, give it some snort! 18 years... you know how to pick'em! Did the owner 'winterize' the car before he parked it? If not.... being sat that long it's going to have severe varnishing issues in the fuel system, and it looks like maybe some corrosion too. You guys clean the injectors/ fuel tank? Might need a full service on the injectors and you could have varnish deposits in the tank. I'm not a professional obviously, My Dad and I used to see regular problems with fuelling issues from people not storing correctly. Though 18 years is a long time!

My head is spinning Tony! Been reading a little bit on the front of the main site page. I must say you can be very 'eloquent'. I'm not used to such big words Getting my head around some of the terms. Some of them I know under different names, others they are completely new. Baby steps. Anyways been reading over the alignment specs you guys did for my car. Getting down the whole degree/minute/second notation. Like most things in the USA it's dumbed down. I think a lot of times they must break it down to % of a degree which is probably why my specs sounded so far out! Which I think you mentioned when I had it done. What I am curious about is my castor angles. The front left is 3.57 and the front right is 4.49. There a way to bring them closer to each other? Also I noticed that on my camber plates one was reading over a degree of negative camber, while the other is reading just on the positive side of 0. I know that with camber plates they are never exactly what they 'should' be. But that seems a bit extreme. I'm confident you guys did the right job. I'm more curious as to what is actually happening. Could my whole K member be shifted enough to cause these measurements or is there something more terminal? Curious as well about the SAI measurements. The left side is 14o58' while the left is 13o44'. What can cause the difference? Should it be something to look into? I guess as well it would be worth looking at this through two lenses. One is that I daily drive. The other is I do plan on hitting the track with it, be it hillclimbs or trackdays, depending on the costs.

Hi! I should be up Milton Keynes way again this weekend. My wife's car needs an alignment. Tire wear looks good on the whole I think, just the wheel is off centred. There might be an issue in the geometry, it looks like the sidewalls have seen some scrubbing ( yes the tires are inflated ) but this could be a case of curb scrubbing. The edges of the wheels certainly have taken a beating! I will give you guys a ring to set up a time if your up for it on Sat?

Look'in good, I'm impressed.

LOL! That's why they jump 30 ft off the water. No paper needed

How long did that car sit? =) It purring nicely now?

Guess you would call them pillowball mounts, but without the pillowball, it was just a piece of rubber riveted between two stamped pieces of metal.

yep I do. Ebay =) Just have to find the right shop. I have used another not from ebay, but they are expensive. Let me have a look. More I think about it not sure what grade the bolt will be, the head of the bolt will say anyways.

They do, BC sends their units with pillowball mounts. Or you can upgrade to camber plates. Some companies sell them with camber plates as standard to bring people in. I was on about the oem top hats.

It's cross threaded pretty good, hope there is enough thread left to re-use the same size. You might end up having to use a larger bolt. If you take a pic of the top of the bolt we could probably let you know what grade it is. I don't know how expensive they are.

Not a big fan of wraps, get that red redone IMO =) I like them in red

The top hat wasn't made very well, the rubber isolator inside it would work free. People would silicone it in place, I guess it worked.

The OEM rears on the SRT would knock too, people would fill them in silicone.

Each bolt size(M6,M8,M10, ect) will have a different thread pitch. There are American Standards, European standards, and I guess Japanese standards for thread pitch. Each standard will have a coarse thread pitch and fine thread pitch. With your seats check the bolt strength, or grade. IIRC they use lower grade bolts on safety kit. Lower grade bolts will stretch instead of snap when overloaded, within reason. A higher grade bolt will hold more, but when taken over the yield strength it will snap. Not sure on Japanese standards but I guess they would fit in with the American/European standards.

Haha even my wife was laughing at that one =)

Problem is they were going downhill so the car was adding energy at the same time. Whoever made that cage should be given an award! Especially with all the sharp edges they were landing on. Incredibly lucky. I doubt you would have seen them alive if that happened 15 years ago.

Your best bet is to get a thread gauge and measure the old bolt threads. That way it leaves no room for error. The gauge is worth having around if you come across anything else like this. Looking at it I would agree with Bazza =) Never dealt with Japanese standard bolts though. American/British is enough for me! Not sure why it tapers at the end. Looks like it could just be made that way so the person/robot fitting them can get the bolt in easier.

They American by chance? =)

Haha =)