RobPhoboS

ebay, I've not had any issues like this before. So, I ordered a driver ® side... I swear I'm not making this up..... I'm glad looked just before leaving, so I didn't just have a wasted journey from London to Surrey.

The new arm just arrived, so fingers and bits crossed that this one works properly ! I'll get photo's and whatnot later tonight when I drive back. Nearly there, haha - and yep I forgot to say I'm booked in

Flipping nutters !

Yep, it's very odd. I originally had the standard rubber bushing there, and about a year ago I had some Superpro poly bushings popped in, so it may have been damaged from that...however, I suspect it's a defect like you said as well. Ah well, hopefully it'll arrive tomorrow and I can pop the new one in.

Interesting, long weekend working away... So the rear nut that stopped play last week, ultimately popped off after a couple of short bursts with the jack under the thing - exactly what I initially did last week The rear is sorted. Then I did the passenger side compression arm, no problem pressing out the old, and in with the new. Then onto the driver side, no problem pressing out the old - but the new... er it just fell through the hole I thought er, ok I'll just pop the arms back on the car anyway, and see what happens: Good. Bad So a new arm is on the way, hopefully by tuesday, and I can press the bushing in this time. I measured the monoball bushing, it's around 60.4mm (roughly) And the hole in the arm from a post on another forum is around 59.4mm. I wonder if it got distorted or damaged previously when someone else pressed the polybushing into it ?

Not a great device but just a typical blow torch, however I didn't want to damage the rubber boot on the thing. I'm sure I'll get it sorted on Saturday morning

I did exactly that for the passenger side, it popped off after a few taps on the impact wrench, the drivers side just wouldn't do it at all, I tried all sorts of ways. I'm ready though for round 2. A good chap on the forums has sent me 2 replacement nuts, so worst case I'll just split it as a last resort

I do miss not having this to watch on a Sunday evening, and have recently been going through the old seasons. I'm looking forward to their return.

Good and bad news. Half of the job is done... half isn't So I called up and we've postponed by one week sir I had a slight issue with a ball joint nut spinning and spinning (even with an impact wrench plus some leverage), I gave up at 2:30am last night, in the rain So I've ordered a heavy duty G clamp, plus a ball joint separator (to use in a similar way by pressing down), AND a couple of new nuts if I have to cut the old. I had to make a little bushing puller/press as the design of the knuckle made it impossible to position with my hydraulic press:

Yep, both good companies. I have Whiteline on the diff, Torque Solutions on the transmission, Prothane on the steering rack. Currently with the Superpro on the compression rod but that's coming out tomorrow for SPL monoball. Booked in Saturday 16th

It's all here now !!! I'll be doing my best to get it all on and sorted this weekend. I'll book myself in ASAP, hopefully you guys can do a Saturday geo ??? Yes, I'd not advise anyone to use poly's either except in a couple of places where it's rotational only.

This looks like its in St Pancras station, they have a few in there, sure if you have time you can chill and watch but most people are trying to get out of town sharp. I like them there but I'm usually trying to catch a train to an airport, thus don't want to hang around.

Flipping heck... nearly there mate I've been waiting just over 5 freaking weeks for one part, never again. Anyway, the other monoball bushings arrived, ordered from Z1 in the states just 6 days ago and arrived this morning So the rear knuckle will have monoball, as well as the compression rod arm and I've already fitted the FLCA inner bushing, man that one alone has made a hugely positive difference. Bloody poly bushings aren't good in certain areas, causing far too much stiction, it was horrible.

Great, cheers for that Tony. I'll have the bits with me in the car just in case.

Oooh one question I do have for you sir I have replacement toe bolts for the spring bucket arm, with the template to cut out a bit from the bracket. ie - like this: Looking at the previous amount of toe: Would you want me to do this before heading over if we require more toe adjustment ?

Argh, bit of a long wait at the moment. The rear camber arms that I ordered (from the US) arrived but they bloody forgot to pack the bolts and lockout washers which was the only reason I ordered them So, I'm waiting for these (although it's easy to buy some, trim the washers down to size), AND I also bought new SPL spherical bushings for the front compression rods and the front lower control arm (inner). Sooo I'm also waiting for these before heading back mate as the Superpro one is adjustable, and has some affect on caster iirc. However hopefully this should stop the stiction issues in these specific spots, plus the slow annihilation of my steering rack seals.

Ah yep, that's a great idea. I'm getting some 'lock-out' washers to replace the camber adjustment bolts as well.

Hey Tony, hope all is well mate. Would you think that is due to the forces they are putting their cars under, or something easily solved with the correct kind of thread lock glue (or even one of the nylon locking nuts?). I've not ordered anything yet but I know quite a lot of the guys on the 350z site tend to use Eibach.

I've not forgotten ! I think I'll be ordering the DW rear camber arms next week, so will be back to get things sorted a bit more

I would have just taken the car home, bought new oil and RTV Sealant (I use V-Tech black), plus the rubber gasket if it has one there and do it myself The longest part will be cleaning the surface properly to ensure the new RTV sticks nicely to it (I've just recently done this for my rocker valve cover and drilled out the old grommets, popped in ones that wont die after a couple of years). Clean up the pan after re-fitting and torquing the bolts, fire it up after the sealant has cured (24hrs), ensure it's not leaking after idling for a bit. Go for a short drive, check it again... then a week later for any signs of leaking, sorted. Ask them what they have done specifically though.

Hello hello ! Well another weekend and tinkering/inspecting bits and pieces. New diff bushings ordered, and you can see my rear one has died and puked its guts up. If you look at the ARB and droplink, is that what we'd call 'preload' ? (I've ordered some adjustable droplinks F+R anyway)

Yes it does, and you guessed it's from a US forum

I found this on another forum, to help with adjusting the anti roll bars - sounds like a reasonable way to figure out what's going on with it. Any thoughts on this chaps ? Find a large empty flat level car park. Take an object with you to use for a centring point like a cone or a chair. Put the car into a high gear and drive circles around the object. The steering should be clocked at a constant angle and you should not be making any adjustments to turn the car around in a circle. When you are driving, only look at the object in the centre of the circle. In a high gear, accelerate in a circle slowly until the tires start to howl. If they aren't making noise, you are not doing it right. If you are not keeping your eyes solidly in the centre of the circle, you are not skid-padding right. This is the point where you are reaching the limit of grip. The noise is the tires communicating this back to you. Keep your foot on the accelerator and go more into the gas. At this point, is the back starting to come around or the front starting to push when you exceed the limits of grip? If the back end is coming around under throttle at the limit, soften the rear bar. If the front is starting to push; then if you lift slightly on the throttle, does the front tighten back up? If it doesn't tighten back up, then either soften the front bar or stiffen the rear.

It feels a little bit slow, certainly not as bad as before I came down that's for sure. I haven't pushed on enough just yet to induce any understeer but it's feeling very neutral which is good. Rich - Adrian should have sent you a PM now

That's strange, I know the last couple of days it's been pretty crazy for him but he's been superb at getting back to me. What's your name on the forum ? or another way is to post here: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/94693-torqen-lowest-price-370z-arbs-camber-arms-braces-etc/