Tony

If your on a short track, sprint and alike then lower the caster which will aid turn in... Fast track you would increase the caster for stability.

They are more or less fast-road i wrote for the NA/ NB. How does it feel like now.

Is there anyway you could display the end positions.

I think it's a NC ?

Fashion u=i just don't get it?

I can only imagine how the owner feels

Improvize

Toe out on the front is twitchy at speed but great for short track and trials. Long track and neutral has a basic law?.... the rear camber needs to be a degree more than the front. Caster needs to be as much as the adjuster will allow and even. A disparity over the axel more than 30' will make the car pull and lazy to return after a turn. As said you need a small amount of rear tow in to heat the tyre before you hot lap. Front toe is a matter of taste but as said negative will be really twitchy at speed. Point to note, if they are measuring toe in millimetres then they have to tell the machine what size the wheels are. I measured in degrees they don't need to tell the machine.

A small amount of positive rear toe heats the tyres up. this reduces the hot lap. Every car sold is designed to understeer. This is a safe zone so if the driver gets it wrong they hit the tree arse first. We have an enormous responsibility calculating chassis settings to compliment any modifications. Most shops use the OEM settings which in truth don't apply to the modified car.

What is it?.... Ok dynamic indexing is how many actions we can make per second, Most manufactures aim for a dynamic indexing of two. The measurement is an action domestically we can make without stress. When a car is modified the indexes is increased, but there is a limit, I would say an index that is safe is four. So as each modification is made we need to comply with the owners wish, and we silently adjust the suspension, geometry to compliment the handling.

Walla.....

Yes those numbers are fine. Be sure the rear toe is positive + I'm about to write a topic about dynamic indexing, read that it might help to understand why the geometry holds these settings.

The rear is a mess.. The car has already got a 50/ 50 weight distribution... Domestically corner weighting is a wast of money?.... Fill up your washer bottle then the balance has gone. -1.5 and correct toe is a great base. Under/ over steer is determined by the rear camber/ toe. This going to rear odd but the front toe uses the rear toe as a datum point? The front wheels don't know where forward is, so setting the rear toe symmetrically with each wheel on the rear it will set the thrust angle and then the front wheels will tell the front where forward is.

Hi The camber difference if because the rear "on bump" has a camber curve, whereas the front camber changes as the steering lock-on-lock migration. Did you check the pre-load on the coils?,,, Jerrick says they are factory set, trust me they are not! Some track day stars run -1 degree 30' all round. Zero toe on the front is fine since to drive wheels are pushing the front so it will toe out dynamically. You need some toe on the rear to keep the temperature up.

How did you manage to open the image?

Nice new suit Nick...

The Panhard rod is there to ensure the body vis fitted and aligned with the chassis. Issue is it doesn't have a redundantly, so if it fails you have this zzxg2s1mfeui3z61.webp <sorry about the link We can measure the chassis location and the body location. Adjusting the rod is live and could also be corrected with a plumb bob.

Had they found the reason ( loose bolt ) for instance they would hardly confess it. Whatever it's ok now so good for you.

Hi Is the car on air suspension. Seems to me there is play in the front bushings. Geometry won't do this but a loose control arm or bushing would. In addition, does the car pull when braking as well?