fangio246

Hi Tony Did 11 runs up Prescott Hill yesterday. Car went really well, great balance and I would say the car felt very neutral, settled and with good turn in. I think for a novice track driver, like myself, the combination of Meister R coilovers and this alignment feels a very safe starting point. Not nervous, darty or wallowing about on soft suspension. Result.....

Hi There Yep sounds like your setting with a touch more negative camber. I'm doing Prescott Hill Climb tomorrow, so will let you know after that.

Morning Tony I've uploaded the Hunter printout sheet. What do you think of the numbers? Thanks in advance.

Hi Tony I've probably gone against the grain but have just returned from getting it aligned. Readings: Front caster 6.30, camber - 1.40 Toe 0.05 : Rear camber - 2.0 Toe 0.10 This alignment company didn't adjust the caster or camber, so obviously the other Hunter machine was out of calibration! All they did was reduce the front Toe and increase the rear Toe. It was therefore at -1.4 & -2.0 camber, not the previous numbers I gave you, which makes more sense as the Meister R's had been installed and set up by a race car specialist.

Thanks Tony If you look at the Lotus Elise settings for example they suggest: Front camber -0.3 : Toe 0 - Rear camber -1.8 : Toe - 1.5mm per side (toe in). Up to 2.5mm toe in on the Exige V6 These are semi track focused road cars all running rear toe in? I'm very nervous about the idea of running rear toe out, are you saying that a little rear toe out (4 mins per side) won't upset the MX5 high speed stability? I did a Donington track day with the MX5 settings as described in my second post. I noticed the front were only running 0.5 psi hotter than the rears. So to get to the 30 psi operating pressure the fronts ended up at 24.5 psi cold and the rears 25.0. Interesting both rears were at the same 25psi cold and 30psi hot, even with the nearside slightly toeing out and the offside running 0.75 degrees more camber with slight toe in! Maybe it's due to Donington being clockwise with virtually all right hand bends?? Any comments gratefully received as I'm going to get the geo reset tomorrow?

Hi Tony So with dynamic indexing in mind and the 'silent' wish to adjust the suspension to compliment the handling the customer wants. Then how come you've suggested positive toe on the rear if I want a more neutral handling car that if anything leans slightly more toward understeer, as I'm a novice track driver? Quote: Toe out on the rear wheels will make the car more nimble and faster through tight sections, making it feel as though it has a shorter wheel base. This effectively makes the car have a higher tendency to oversteer so is a set up used by smooth drivers who can be light on the throttle. Toe out will also make the car feel less stable through high speed corners due to the feeling of oversteer occurring at the rear wheels.

Morning Tony Can if please confirm if my settings above would be a reasonable starting point, or if you would go more or less on the rear toe? Camber -1.5 all round : Front toe 0 : Rear toe minus 4 mins per side? Thanks

Thanks Tony for your speedy response Think i'll get the rear to -1.50 camber on both sides, so -1.5 all round Toe: Front 0 (zero) Rear minus 4 mins per side? Does that sound ok to help prevent unwanted oversteer and help high speed stability? Cheers

Hi Tony Thanks for your reply. The chap who fitted the Meister's supposedly corner weighted the car and checked the pre-load etc. Interestingly he wouldn't tell me his geo settings so I took it to a place with Hunter equipment to ask them to give me a read out. It seems weird to me Front near side -1.51 camber 0.05 toe in - Front off side -1.46 camber 0.22 toe in Rear near side -1.52 camber 0.08 toe out - rear near side -2.26 camber 0.09 toe in There wasn't any weight put in the car, though i'm only 60kg Comments? Would you say it could go to 1.5 negative camber all round?

Hi After some geo advise for a Mk3 NC MX5 Want a good starting point for a fast road (sometime track) geo set up having had Meister R Clubrace coilovers fitted. I know driver preference affects things, but want the handing fairly neutral, certainly not oversteery... I'm a little confused as a lot of the American guys especially seem to run more negative camber on the front than the rears. Plus I've read on Suspension Secrets the following: The rear negative camber is often much less than the front wheels due to the tractive force needing to go through them on the straights. This set up is also coupled with a slightly softer rear end to prevent the contact patch rolling over towards positive during fast cornering. Also some people seem to suggest to start with zero toe at the front and then go anything from minus 4 to 9 mins per side on the rear. I'm running the Meister's around 16 from hard on the front and 19 from hard on the rears - 30psi hot all round on Nankang NS-2R's Thanks