jedi

Thanks Tony....Im quite aware of all the Freelanders pitfalls. ...Im currently running without the prop, so transfer box sould be safe for now I supose I wont really know now until I have a new set of tyres on the front.....Might try the rears on the front some time and report back.... Thanks again

Thanks Rich.....im always a bit suspicious when garages start blaming tyres for faults they cant fix, from past experiences.... Maybe this time it is the tyres? I would have thought a 4x4 would be more tollerant to variations in tyres, road surfaces etc......

Hmmmmm ill put it down to the tyre's then. Are the old geo settings worn into the tyres, if that makes sense.? I will see how it goes Thanks Tony.

Swaped front wheels side to side. With the steering wheel in the straight ahead position, the car tended to drift, NOT pull to the right, ie the steering wheel did not dip to the right, but the car tented to move that way without moving the steering wheel.............. If i let go of the steering wheel it still wanted to go to the left but not as much as before........ Wheels in there origional positions With the steering wheel in the straight ahead position, the car will drive straight, but I am applying a counter force in order to stop the steering wheel turning left.........Last time I had to apply this type or counter force to a vehicle, It worn the inside edges of the front tyres. Also noticed and it might be just me thinking the worst .........but I get the slightest sensation that the car is crabbing....ie the near side rear is more nearer the kerb than the front........ Just out of interest Tony, if for what ever reason, the rear toe of the car could not be adjusted, ie....for example the rear tie bars had siezed soild that even heat would not budge them, what other options would there be for setting this car up?

A build issue in what way exactly? Is one bigger than the other, heavier? And is it only the fronts I should try or should I try the rears too if no change from the fronts?? Thanks

Ok thanks Tony, if it ever stops raining I will swap then around and report back.

I dont think it increments to the left, more of a smooth fluid turn....However what I noticed when reversing was that the wheel turned to the right? So going forward turns to left when reversing goes to the right....or is it just me??? http://www.4shared.com/video/BgBbB1Toba/20140525_103332.html Link to video of what the wheel does moving forward. The car seems very sensitive to road variations...

Hi all, Just looking for some advice on a Freelander I have just had 4 wheel aligned...2001 model TD4 The origional fault was that the steering track rod ends had worn and so were changed by myself for MOT purposes, before this the car tended to wander left/right on the road, (Not suprising really considering how much play there was in the track rod ends) also the steering wheel was off center to the right. After the track rod ends were changed, I could not feel much difference, apart the clunking noises from the warn ball joints had gone... car still wanders on the road left/right, steering still of center to the right. So off I went to get it all aligned Now the car has a pull towards the left, and the steering wheel wants to naturally sit towards the left of center position......If I hold the wheel straight the car will go in a straight line......but if I let go of the steering wheel, it wants to naturally park its seft left of center and then pulls that way.......This pull to the left was not that noticable before the alignment, as it pulled both ways.... any ideas Thanks

With that amount of damage to the tyre, would not feel that something was wrong with just driving the car? I can tell how many stones I have stuck in the tread on my tyres

Vag group springs are know for snapping....what year was this Ibiza? 2000-2005? I usually drive around pot holes

Only 3 wheels studs??

Looks like van has been stood for a while, rear brakes have corroded on, and someone has just driven it around with locked up rears trying to free them up again? How can you explain that tire wear? handbrake turns? but how when the discs look unused? Terrible.

They dont make them like they used to, "made in china" springs to mind.

I understand what you say Tony, in my opinion people like that should be named and shamed. But it’s not in your interest to do so. I fully understand. You helped me out once with a wheel alignment problem on a Golf 4 motion, when you where hosted on NTL, and with your expert advice, and emails all totally free I might add, I ran rings around the VW dealership, so much so they had the car for 2 weeks, having been given a curtsey car also for the time, being passed from one dealership to the other to finally realise that the rear passenger wheel had too much toe in. How no wheel alignment centre could spot this was unbelievable? (Would explain why this tyre had beads of rubber on it all the time) VW manchester had settings for a VW Caddy on the paper work????, the back end on a 4 motion is totally different, need I say more from a Dealership that charges in excess of £100 p/h for labour. I even went to the trouble of asking the dealership how they actually used there equipment and got shown around the equipment. All was top spec computerised equipment, but no one had a clue how to use it obviously. I went to all sorts of so called performance centres that specialised in Vw`s, non had a clue, but took the cash for the work. Finally after waiting 2 weeks, they found a dealership (VW Stockport Manchester) who finally found the problem. I can’t thank you enough for your help, free advice and time, and would recommend you 110% to anyone with wheel alignment problems. I don’t know of any wheel alignment centre that has the knowledge of Tony Bones, This guy should be knighted. Thanks again Tony.

Wow! thats scary,that people would actually want to put a tyre like that back on the road. you should start a new section on the forum with the title "dumbest drivers ever" a picture of the offender and the tyre, and a brief explanation as to why they are so dumb. But is this case just the 2 pictures will do. Crazy!!

It really would not suprise me if they missed it on purpose, then low and behold, as soon as warranty runs out, they spot all sorts of things wrong with the car. Liner33: I agree 100% with your comments, nothing more than expensive basic service centers.

I wonder whether the car was still in warranty? Is this a cheap fix? or will it cost a few bob?

I believe the HPI report is only valid in the UK, If its an Import there will be no record on the HPI report. Its also very hard to trace the history of an imported vehicle. Either that or it was not recorded some how? If its had the amount of work you say it has, i.e. only 1 origonal panel left, it could very be a very good ringer.

yep! I also do that, but its a bit of a pain sometimes.

See this all the time when taking my cars for tyres, I stand over them watching while they figure out where to stick the trolley jack. As soon as I spot danger (usually after they`ve been faffing around for 5 mins) I jump on them and say" I usually stick the jack here, or here or here. I have to get down on all 4`s sometimes. They just mutter to themsevles, and I feel a git for telling them there job, But at least my cars safe for another 30k, Until the next time.

This is what I was looking for. Seems it was just on Toyota`s??? Also do you only get a certain ammount of time to edit your own posts on this forum?

similar to THIS type,

Well on the Toyota Rav 4 there is a support band fitted around the run flat rim, which needs cutting off, This support band could be because of the higher profile tyre fitted to a 4X4 I`m not sure how BMW or other manufactures run flats are assembled, But if you can get away with re-using the origonal rim then thats a Brucey bonus.

I would`nt think so. You can buy a set of aftermarket wheels and tyres ranging from £500 upwards depending what you want. Much cheaper than replacing a run flat tyre. If for any odd reason the suspension did need tweaking, I`m sure the guys a wheels in motion coud do this for you. Should not effect the insurance unless your rims are the expensive bling type. If it was me I would sell the run flats A.S.A.P. and buy some normal rims and tyres. Run flat tyre £250 normal tyre £50 its a no brainer. Or just get someone with experience to cut the support band from the run flat rim and fit normal tyres on your origonal rim. Make sure they dont cut into the tyre pressue sensor thats mounted inside most run flat rims.

This problem with run flat tyres is not just with BMW, Have a read on the Toyota forums, people are getting puntures left right and center, and cannot get the tyres replaced, because there are not many tyre fitters that supply these tyres, or they don`t have the equipment to replace them. There is talk of huge waiting lists for run flat tyre replacement. What people have resorting to doing now because of the huge costs of replacing a run flat, is to bite the bullet and buy a brand new set of normal rims and just fit normal tyres to them, this works out cheaper in the long run. Or the other way is to cut the band from the original rim and just fit normal tyres again. "THE RUN FLAT SCAM"