steve b Posted June 16, 2008 Report Share Posted June 16, 2008 I have an MR2 SW20, it was to be the cheap runabout, however I quite like it so want to correct its problems. Its biggest problem is it is sat on 4 identical 17"x7.5 ET35 wheels, I have so far spun it 3 times on track. My previous MR2 many years ago I was lucky enough to find a set of TOM's/ RAY'S 16"x7 front ET 33, 16"x8 rear ET30 (the current owner says, i think they were 38), these transformed the handling from the stock 15"x7, ET45 & 15"x8 ET45, they were also vastly better than the current car on the 17" wheels, that car had 100bhp more and i never spun it. I have been trying to find some similar specification wheels and struggling. I have Found Compomotive will supply a set of their MO motorsport wheels, but they are not cheap at £750 a set. Image I have also looked at and they are £1200 or £1600 depending on material. Too much when the MR2 was a similar price whole. Does anyone know of any other options? Thanks p.s. See you at 08:30 on Friday in my Eunos Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted June 16, 2008 Report Share Posted June 16, 2008 Although off-sets cause endless problems with the handling the initial concern with off-set is actual suitability whether the wheel will fit the car I.E not hit the caliper or strut or whatever. Once fitted the handling can be recovered by manipulating the Geometry.... Fundamentally the Geometry is used to reposition where the cars weight is placed at the tyres contact patch. Oh and yes see you Friday Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted June 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2008 Although off-sets cause endless problems with the handling the initial concern with off-set is actual suitability whether the wheel will fit the car I.E not hit the caliper or strut or whatever. Once fitted the handling can be recovered by manipulating the Geometry.... Fundamentally the Geometry is used to reposition where the cars weight is placed at the tyres contact patch. Oh and yes see you Friday Tony, the MR2 I have is a 1995 model, from my old MR2 days essentially I think its a system with very little range in adjustment from the factory, the car is also very low. Maybe a visit to WIM combined with camber bolts could correct the problem? Currently the car in not adjustable at the limit (at least I can't) it goes from understeer with too much throttle to snap oversteer if you back off to try and tighten line, I'm aware of this MR2 trait but my old car didn't react so viciously by any margin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted June 16, 2008 Report Share Posted June 16, 2008 Your correct... Stock adjustment is front/ rear toe.... A set of E-Z cams will take care of the camber> This allows manipulation toward over/ under steer... Then the addition of castor adjusters will allow the front camber to "lift" the inner wheel further corner in. Fact is it's very easy to replace the MR2's historic "push" corner in to a reproductive progressive over-steer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted June 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2008 Then the addition of castor adjusters will allow the front camber to "lift" the inner wheel further corner in. Fact is it's very easy to replace the MR2's historic "push" corner in to a reproductive progressive over-steer Caster adjusters? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted June 17, 2008 Report Share Posted June 17, 2008 Then the addition of castor adjusters will allow the front camber to "lift" the inner wheel further corner in. Fact is it's very easy to replace the MR2's historic "push" corner in to a reproductive progressive over-steer Caster adjusters? Yep..... Adjustable tie rods> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted June 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2008 ah, do you stock / supply these part? If not i'll have a look and try and get the bits and bobs together before bringing the car in question over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted June 17, 2008 Report Share Posted June 17, 2008 ah, do you stock / supply these part? If not i'll have a look and try and get the bits and bobs together before bringing the car in question over. No i don't stock them but they are readily available online. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted June 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2008 Tein front tie rods & a full set of EZ camber bolts are now in the post to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted June 22, 2008 Report Share Posted June 22, 2008 Tein front tie rods & a full set of EZ camber bolts are now in the post to me Sweet.... happy calibrations-A-coming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted June 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2008 Tony, chatting about this on Imoc some people are defending no problem with non staggered alloys, i.e as long as the rim width falls in the sizes suggested as fine by the tyre manufacturer then non necessary, others comment as quoted below. All I can say is if you want the maximum from your car and it to handle as well as it could you need a proper set up with correctly fitted tyres, just sticking some wide ones on the back on the same sized rim as the front is not the same as fitting them on correctly sized rims, they just wont work properly. Either do it right or do it cheap. Any truth in the comment, i'd be running 7.5" wide rim with 205 up front and 225 rear, as the start of this thread shows I'd been thinking I should get staggered alloys, but if you can fix the handling traits with geometry, then the painful search for correctlly sized aloys in the "correct, previously tested as good" width and offset can be avoided? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted June 24, 2008 Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 Tony, chatting about this on Imoc some people are defending no problem with non staggered alloys, i.e as long as the rim width falls in the sizes suggested as fine by the tyre manufacturer then non necessary, others comment as quoted below. All I can say is if you want the maximum from your car and it to handle as well as it could you need a proper set up with correctly fitted tyres, just sticking some wide ones on the back on the same sized rim as the front is not the same as fitting them on correctly sized rims, they just wont work properly. Either do it right or do it cheap. Any truth in the comment, i'd be running 7.5" wide rim with 205 up front and 225 rear, as the start of this thread shows I'd been thinking I should get staggered alloys, but if you can fix the handling traits with geometry, then the painful search for correctlly sized aloys in the "correct, previously tested as good" width and offset can be avoided? As said the camber changes the position of the king pin, this in turn changes the position of the scrub radius (cars weight at tyre contact patch). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted June 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 So in a word, no, because by placing the cars weight at the correct point via manipulating the geometry it is irrelevant as to where the rim sits with in reason and 1/2inch difference in rim width is well within reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted June 24, 2008 Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 So in a word, no, because by placing the cars weight at the correct point via manipulating the geometry it is irrelevant as to where the rim sits with in reason and 1/2inch difference in rim width is well within reason. In a word yes..... I feel the calibration will help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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