Jump to content

Rich

Root Admin
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    36,191

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    173

 Content Type 

Posts posted by Rich

  1. Lowering a car

    in Suspension

    Posted

    if extra waight of the td will drop it by an extra 10-20mm your shocks will then bottom out as the standard mondeo shocks will take a max of 40mm drop. i would say you would need shortend shocks to allow the correct travel and resistance.{think that makes sence}

     

    Yeah I know that's why I didn't wanna go lower than 30mm. I've also been told that the more weight you have in the car the firmer the springs should get so it won't appear much lower with a full load.

     

    I've found some Eibach 30mm V6/TD springs second hand for 75quid. The same ones new I've found for 165quid. Now these are from a shop as well so should be able to view them. What do you need to look for when buying second hand springs? From what I've read though these Eibach ones seem to be very good...

  2. Lowering a car

    in Suspension

    Posted

    Well I have had a full boot, an adult, child and 2 dogs in the back when I go away. The arch lip is just above the tyre then. So when there's 2 in the front as well I'd imagine it's very low. I've only just decided to lower it though so never paid much attention to the clearance. Never had any banging etc and I drive 300 miles like this, plus there's a few nasty speed bumps I go over. Those pyramid shaped ones made of rubber.

     

    I may have found some 30mm V6 springs I can use as they shouldn't compress anymore than what they're suppose to, but they're 50quid more! :sad01_anim:

  5. Lowering a car

    in Suspension

    Posted

    I want to lower mine and I'm gonna get some 40mm springs. Cos these are also for the petrol versions they lower the TD by about 50-60mm cos of the extra weight.

     

    Now me wheels have an offset of 35 (the minimum for ford wheels). I think the rear tyres will catch on the arch lip from visually looking but I can't be sure.

     

    Is there anyway I can check whether they will catch before I buy them?

  10. Tyre wear

    in Tyres / Wheels

    Posted

     

    Bloody hell :ohno01:

     

    But there was something faulty on the car in this case, I've replaced/am upgrading everything so it shouldn't get as bad as that surely...

     

    Mark you are spot on if the car was a Lexus. Fortunately this is a Mondeo and does not have adjustable camber and so on.... So Mr E/R since the angles are captive within the constructive chassis the error should be minimal but not final... I suggest you concentrate on getting the car mobile... go enjoy your holiday then bring her back to me :crying_anim:

     

    Think I remember you mentioning that when I had the geo done last year.

     

    I'm not bothered if I get abit of wear as I'll just swap them for the rears when I've replaced them.

     

    Don't know why but everything happens before I go away, first the subframe problem, then I think it was the CV joint and then the current problem!! :oneeyed02: :crying_anim:

  11. Tyre wear

    in Tyres / Wheels

    Posted

    I've had everything off suspension/steering wise from the front and I'm planing on fitting lowering springs, replacing the track rod ends and I will probably be getting new driveshaft/cv joints if it isn't my diff that is going. I probably won't have everything done for a month or so, maybe longer and I'm going on holiday in 3-4 weeks. I think I will cover about 1000 miles by the time I get another geo done.

     

    So how long does it take for signs of tyre wear to start showing? I would have obviously lost my fine tune settings but if the car doesn't pull or drift could I still get some uneven wear? I know there is no definate answer but I'm just curious so I have an idea of how long to leave it before I get the geo done again.

     

    The tyres on the front are fairly new and I don't wanna start seeing bald edges etc. The rears are down to 2-3mm so if I put these on the front and the new ones on the rear would they still wear as I haven't done any work on the rear yet?

    Eurodrift

    in Drifting & Track Days

    Posted

    Danielle Christie used to live up the road from me, drives a modded blue fiat punto. Went to the same school as me girlfriend. Dunno if she's still in the area but I've seen her motor a few times parked round the corner.

  14. Splitting ball joints

    in General Problems / Discussions

    Posted

    i usually tap mine down with a rubber mallet.thay should pop out quite easy.failing that get a pole and slide it over the arm and under the floor and lever it down.dont rate them splitters atall.i think you can get new rubbers but dont quote me on that thow.....

     

    I've seen someone use a pole before and tried meself but it wouldn't budge! Now that I've got new ones on hopefully they'll come out easier if I do it that way.

     

    Normally if you need to remove the lower wishbone then the reason is terminal failure so the forked splitter serves the purpose. No other splitter is available to harmlessly remove the joint intact for the Mondeo... Efforts like adding leverage and "shocking" the pin by hammering the casting may prove successful? As for replacement rubbers.. Unlikely since @ £20 for a complete arm there would be little commercial value making a repair kit.

     

    Yeah but the lower ball joint needs taking out to change the CV joint! Ideally needs to come out for changing the shocks as well although you can just get them in if you hold the arm down. The only trouble with that is I'm worried I'd be putting too much strain on the bushes. As the ball joint rubber is only held on with 2 spring clips I thought there might have been replacements for a quid or two. Won't be changing it just yet then!

     

    i have a splitter that wont damage the rubber, if you want to borrow it

     

    Cheers will bear that in mind for when I change it again :)

  15. Splitting ball joints

    in General Problems / Discussions

    Posted

    It seems that everytime I try to split one of these I end up buggering the rubber around it. When I was working on the car yesterday I managed to split the rubber on the lower arm ball joint. I only fitted it last week!! :)

     

    I've got one of those fork shaped splitters and it doesn't matter how careful I am or how many rags I put around the rubber it splits.

     

    So am I doing it wrong or should I be using a different tool? What other splitters can you get?

     

    And can you get new rubbers for the ball joints, save me forking out another 20quid on a new arm?

  16. Effect of worn/loose suspension cap on geo

    in Geometry

    Posted

    Well as you know looks like I need a new gearbox now but I WON'T let this car defeat me! :)

     

    sorry to here your g/box has gone now m8.mondeos there a never ending headache.but we love,em dearly

     

    It's a pain, especially as I'm going on holiday in 4 weeks and need the car to get there.

     

    Means I gotta get the gearbox done now along with everything else I had planned for the next couple of weeks! :)

     

    Still once it's done it shouldn't need doing again for as long as I have the car (touch wood!)...

  19. Effect of worn/loose suspension cap on geo

    in Geometry

    Posted

    I won't pretend I understood all of that as I didn't but I got the gist of it...

     

    I used the mounts I took off mine on the other shocks/springs. Now they would've done 163K miles and I'm not sure if they're actually worn or not. As I think that noise was caused from the nut being loose. Do you think I should get 2 new mounts or ones from a low milage car?

     

    I keep referring to it as pulling, it is actually drifting slightly and tramlining but that's due to the tyes as you've said previously. Me rear ones will need replacing soon so I will make sure the place I order them from send a pair with the outer bands on opposite sides. If they ask why I'll point them in this direction! graduated.gif

     

    I'm going to replace a couple of more things on the car before I get the geo done again...

     

    As I'm getting new shocks I want some new springs so may lower it 30mm. The rear anti roll bar bushes will be replaced with poly ones and maybe the fronts if there's a way to get the bolts out without lowering the subframe? The drop links have been done and I will replace the lower arm bushes with poly ones next time they need doing as these seem to wear very quickly. Also I need that CV joint changed before I have the geo done.

     

    Hopefully when that lot is done I won't have any problems for a while!! questionmark.gif

  20. Effect of worn/loose suspension cap on geo

    in Geometry

    Posted

    Tony will be able to relate to this more than anyone I think...

     

    If you remember that noise I asked you to listen to before xmas I think I've found what was causing it. I've just realised that the noise I'm getting at the moment due to this damaged shock and the way the top plate is sitting on the spring, is the same. At the time me tyres were almost on the limit and I then got new ones fitted and the noise disappeared!

     

    Now when I changed these shocks and springs over the nut that holds the cap on the spring and the nut on top of the little rubber cap in the engine bay weren't very tight at all.

     

    So when I got me original geo done, assuming these nuts weren't tight and they were allowing some very slight movement in the cap/spring could this have upset the settings as soon as I drove the car again. During the fine tune I think the toe was out quite abit on the same side. I am also still getting some drifting/pulling.

     

    And how do you explain the noise going when I changed the tyres? Would the extra tread have meant the position of the strut would have changed or it was putting more pressure on the spring as the tread is deeper?

     

    Edit - Also I forgot to mention that after the new front tyres were fitted the steering wheel was at a slight angle.

  22. Damaged shock and vibration...

    in Suspension

    Posted

    My car is a constant headache mate!!

     

    Thanks for the offer scorps but I'll pass as I need to get the car sorted by Saturday as got alot of driving to do Sunday questionmark.gif So I'm just gonna get 2 new front shocks and put me old springs on for now. The shocks are the same though for the TD and V6 so I'd only need springs if I change them again as me rear shocks are ok.

     

    I wouldn't be happy using that damaged spring with the new shocks and I'm thinking of lowering it slightly now anyway, which brings me to another question...

     

    Could I just lower the front 40mm and leave the rear springs as standard? Me brother has done this on his pug 106 but obviously the mondeo TD is alot bigger and heavier. I've always got people in the rear and a heavy boot load when I go away and I'm fairly certain the tyres will catch on the arch lip if I lower the rear.

  23. Damaged shock and vibration...

    in Suspension

    Posted

    I've spent the weekend and today changing me front shocks and springs to V6 ones, used not new. These are the same as TD ones except the springs are slightly shorter and firmer. Had grief with the pinch bolts, spent god knows how long drilling them out! rolleyes_anim.gif

     

    Anyway, I fitted one side ok and did the other one today. Now I noticed when I put the top cap on that the nut doesn't sit flush on it, it does one side but not the other. Also noticed that the very end of the spring had broken at an angle, but the whole spring was there, it was more like a chip. I had to change the cap for another one as it was also broken. Before I took it apart I noticed that the spring wasn't actually sitting in the recess part of the cap, it was on the opposite side. So my theory is that maybe when they were used by the previous owner they had hit a pothole or something which has caused this, plus bent either the piston or thread on top of it in the process, hence the position of the nut.

     

    I had to fit it as I needed the car for work and it went on ok apart from one thing. I couldn't do the top nut that goes on the rubber cover up as much as the other side. Driving to work I noticed a vibration, quite bad at times coming from the front. It doesn't do it all the time and is worse on uneven roads and when accelerating. If you are coasting, for example downhill, it disappears. The vibration is similar to when a wheel has lost a balancing weight but I had checked these and none are missing.

     

    I did pull both driveshafts out fitting them and one of the bearings fell off but I put them back in ok and I thought that if they weren't then everything would not of locked back together ok. I also noticed that the CV joint on the same side is wearing, felt like it was sticking.

     

    So my question is could the shock be causing this as there will obviously be some very small movement in it where that nut isn't sitting flush on the cap? Or could it be causing a strain on the CV joint that I suspect to be wearing?

     

    I also emailed the person I bought them from who didn't know about the damage. They have informed me that when they had them on the car, they ate a pair of tyres in less than 5K miles. However, they assumed it was their lower arm bushes as they were all knackered.

     

    I've decided to scrap using the V6 shocks/springs now as I can't be bothered to try drilling the rear bolts if they snap so am getting new shocks and springs the weekend for the fronts as I've only recently had new tyres put on.

     

    Cheers rolleyes_anim.gif

×
×
  • Create New...