Rich
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Posts posted by Rich
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Cheers Tony, made abit of sense! :ph34r_anim: :ph34r_anim:
The bloke driving wasn't hurt, don't even think the car had an air bag, if it did it never went off. The police were there for about an hour with the bloke, don't know if he got nicked for anything!
I use this stretch of road every day and before the humps were put in the lighting was very poor, if you don't know the road you wouldn't see the bend until you were on top of it, but the signs can be seen clearly if you're paying attention to the road!
When I go around it I normally cut across both lanes as you can see if there's any oncoming traffic...
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What do you mean by number 3, that one has me baffled?!!
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Hit the hump so hard it lifted,by the time it hit the ground he ran out of rd and got personal to the lampost.
Can I just point out that the humps have only been put in this week, they weren't there when this accident happened. So you could approach the bend doing well over the 30mph limit.
OK here's my version....It was late at night with low visibility and the driver was unfamiliar with the area and travelling too fast... the fact that there is a broken center line gave the driver no warning that there was a sharp bend approaching , in reaction to seeing the bend to late the driver locked up the brakes (mustn't of had ABS) and severely under-steered straight into the lamppost...
It happened around 5pm a couple of days into the new year so was dark. Also the lighting was fairly poor on this stretch, they've improved this though cos of the new humps. There are the warning signs on the side of the road to indicate it's a sharp bend which can be seen quite clearly via the headlights.
I agree about the car not having ABS, I think it was an M reg so when they braked they locked. The car hit the post and the back end smashed into the brick wall behind it. Also cos of the time of year the road was damp and possibly frosty.
There was an article in the paper about it, I will have to try and find it when I go to work.
A week after this happened someone else drive straight into the tree you see in the background next to the lamp post. Looked like they didn't even attempt to steer around the corner!
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Wondered when a warning would come...
Nothing to do with me though :rolleyes_anim:
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Nice one :rolleyes_anim:
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Reason I asked is that he hasn't noticed any difference in tyre wear or handling! He's changing it next week I think as the banging is getting on his nerves.
I was surprised at how easy they snap though. It happened when he was driving onto a ferry and went down with a bang. He'd only replaced it a few months beforehand aswell...
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Me girlfriends old man needs to replace another shock on his scenic!! Makes one hellava bang when going over bumps!!
It's been like this for a good few months though, could he be causing anymore damage by not changing it immediately?
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No worries :rolleyes_anim:
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Put a volt reader on the battery with the engine on, it should read 12V when idle.
Rev the engine to 3K RPM and hold it for a minute or 2 and the reading should be around 14V but no more than 14.9V (I think)
Test it again under load, 3K RPM, rear screen switched on and the headlights on. Again, should still be reading around 14V.
If it isn't and it's still on 12V then the alternator ain't charging the battery.
Had this problem on mine and changed the whole alternator, problem went.
The black bit Jammy is talking about is the voltage regulator, this is held on with 4 torx bolts. Attached to this are the brushes, check the length of them. Anything less than 5mm and it needs replacing. You can get the regulator off without taking the alternator off.
If it's not the alternator then it could be the loom. Have you checked the terminals for corrosion or any oil that may be on them? Mine were covered from oil that had leaked from the EGR value.
Hope this helps :rolleyes_anim:
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Thought I'd started something I shouldn't of then!
I'll leave the idea with you and Tony then
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That would work but then everyone's photos will be under one thread. If this built up after a while there could be quite a few pages!
Was thinking more of a sub section under general, that way people can start their own threads for their own photos, would make searching easier anyway.
Up to you though, you're the boss!
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How about creating it under the general section as Images or whatever you think is appropriate?
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Yeah but if a gallery wasn't used, i.e. we host our photos etc then there should be no extra charge should there as you're not using a gallery that Invision supplies?
I just thought having a section dedicated to general images of cars, mods etc would be easier for people to find rather than have them in different sections.
Was just an idea!
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Internet Service Provider
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A gallery could be used but as we can now upload our own images with our posts I just thought a dedicated photo section would be more ideal if they aren't specific to another area on the forum?
Or I have plenty of free webspace to host my own images and I'm sure plenty of others have their free webspace via their ISP. I wouldn't mind making a little 'how-to' to help users upload/host their own images
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Yeah that's true but then you could have a general images section where members can show photos of their cars, mods etc.
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Nice one :graduated:
Just an idea but now that we can upload images how about creating a section dedicated to just images?
Keeps them all in the same place then...
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Do you think I would need some of these on a 30mm drop? I'm assuming they're aimed at mondeos that have been lowered 40mm plus as the camber will be worse? The springs I'm getting are the ones Ford uses if you choose the sports suspension package and they're compatible with standard shocks.
I was reading an old post of yours on MEG regarding wishbone wear and lowering the car. As I'm lowering mine 30mm do you think I wouldn't have to change them as often? I was under the impression that the lower a car is the more pressure you're putting on them so they wear quicker?
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If they can afford a car like that, they can afford the 40K loss. Nice motor though...
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I think I've seen a pic of these somewhere, but that's abit steep!
Still I'm only going 30mm so hopefully I'll be ok...
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i bet essex racer will be sraight on the blower to eibach for these little babys
Depends how much they are though!
Any idea of a price Tony?Too be honest I haven't suffered with any tyre wear on the car since I've had it which is surprising with the problems I've had suspension wise. I'm hoping to be getting the Eibach springs tomorrow so that will lower the car 30mm, might start seeing some slight wear then!
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Here you go mate - enquiries@wheels-inmotion.co.uk
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the guy i right about the track rod end, the only time they should be heated up is when removing them to fit new ones, heating can damage the rubber gaiters and lead to the grease inside boiling resulting in excsive wear due to increased friction, it is also failable on an m.o.t if the tester spots that the t.r.e has been heated.
When Tony did my geo he heated it up to adjust it. Or are we talking about the nut that holds it onto the hub as you obviously can't heat that up, but then why would it need to be just to make an adjustment?
My MOT passed as well and you can see where it's been heated...
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The bloke has already sold them, didn't take them off the site
Still I get me car back tomorrow, all fixed now, been hell the last 2 weeks without it...
Crash scene investigation
in General Problems / Discussions
Posted
Good explaination, I understand now.
So if you take our trainers, there are different tread patterns for different environments/circumstances; walking/running, dry/wet etc.
Assuming this car just had budget tyres on with a symetrical pattern, would different ones have prevented it from happening or changed the way the car crashed? :ph34r_anim: