Luki78

...with OEM adjusters.

Last year I went to Tony's garage with my MX 5 for fast road settings after I fitted new lowered suspension. Now I also have old everyday car. I'm thinking of lowering it. Is that the same rule with old Vauxhall Astra Mk4 as with MX 5 ? When car is lowered the settings can't be "factory settings" ? And they have to be changed like in Mazda by measuring the high to the fender ?

As MX 5 is my first rear wheel drive I don't have experience. Is it common among all RWD that steering wheel is lazy in returning to the centre position after turn ? It is not complain but I just wondering... I played today with my 5 when driving about 40 m/h and turning sharply left and right. And I had to correct the position myself. Whereas my former Astra tried to come back to the straight position so quick that I had to keep the steering wheel firmly.

Wow 😊 I have no idea about the fuel. Boot and glove compartment were empty as usuall 😊 Do you think that for example 20kg can make a bif difference ?

Oh no no no no... so that is clear. I'm not going to change that ARB's. At least not now. So I will read about the rest of braces. But if I'm honest they are some braces under my MX5 and I thought that the lighter, painted in red or white aftermarket braces are just like... visual tuning. OK, they are lighter but will they help to make a chasis stiffer then the OEM ones ?

Well I have some intorior plans. However I was offered anti roll bars from RX8 for a good price but I'm wondering if I need them as I do 95% my mileage is on straight motorway. Maybe rather that bracing... ? Hm... but which one is the most effective... the are plenty of them.

Right, during last 2 days I've done about 60 miles both town and motorway and.... the only word I can say is WOW !!! I just really can't understand how big change has been done. I mean, now the handling is so sweet, so precise. When going straight the car is stable even when driving across potholes or ruts. Before I was jelaous when seeing relaxed people in their hatchbacks cruising on motorway. Now I can do that as well. The ride is so easy and calm. When turning though on fast roundabouts the steering wheel is not fighting with me any more. The car is going exactly when I told it to go. It is so precise now. I'm literally in shock now. This is the Mazda I read about. To me is the pinnacle of driving for that sort of cars. Now I feel what I felt when bought it: this is my car I was waiting for ( owning 19 cars before). I'm happy like a young lad who has got a new toy. I don't know if a new wishbone has had an influence on that as well but now I know my whole front suspension is new and alignment is very very proper for me. My head is now finally free and I can start thinking of new mods So thanks once again for you patience and your advices.

Tony, you wrote a couple posts before :"...Basically the lower the castor the lighter the steering so 6 degrees is fine providing the cambers hit their target". Yesterday they did 5.50, so almost 6. What can be the reason that they couldn't achive 5.30 with keeping cambers' target ?

Or maybe better do not touch them if I have good angles set up. I'm just not sure if my Eibach coils were fitted in your (proper) way.

Apologize for unearthing that thread. One question: can l loosen upper arms bolts to check if there is no tension on that bushing ? Both of them ? I wouldn't like to disturb my alignment.

So I guess as the MX 5 is so sensitive about differences in chasis angles it would be good idea to check them at least one a year to be sure of proper handling.

So I'm after alignment. This is not like you said exactly. Instead 5.30 caster they managed to do 5.50. Well, I've done 10 miles and it seems to be OK. The car is stable at higher speed but I think the steering wheel is a little bit lighter at lower speed.So fine to me. One thing which is strange for me,after last alignment in WIM in December all rear has changed. Well front as well but today they fitted new lower arm so they change it. But the rear hasn't been touched since December. Last WIM rear settings were: Rear: Camber Left - 1.44 Right - 1.47 Toe Left 0.13 Right 0.06 but today before measurement showed: Camber Left - 2.02 Right - 1.57 Toe Left 0.12 Right 0.03

OK. I booked my alignment next Wednesday and... decided to set up 5.30 castor instead 6.40. I've just learnt that you did alignment for Mat Watson's MX 5. I love his cars reviews on the internet. And I noticed that he had about 5.30 castor as well

Possible but if I said A I will say B. This will be the last part. I'm not going to touch a steering rack

Now 84000.

Well,that's why I replace parts of the front suspension. Maybe here is the isssue. So far I've replaced anti rollbar links and bushes, steering rod ends, shockers and springs and right side lower wishbone. Now I'm going to replace second one. In that, what I replaced already, the balljoint was quite loose comparing to the stiffenes of the new one. Maybe it has an impact on driving. That one side is strong and new but second old and loose... I've checked upper wishbones and they look good and don't think need to be replaced. Also tyres are 2years old Michelin's with a lot of thread. I will try to change that wishbone and then will see. This is what I can do now.

Well, nothing has happened. Maybe I did more miles and got to know the car. The thing is that when I bought it I felt more fun when driving but unfortunately I had to change some parts and then did alignment in Kwik Fit and this was my big mistake. Anyway since then I can't stop thinking about Mx 5 handling. I read a lot of reviews old and new before I bought Mx5 and everybody praised it for handling and feelings so maybe I sticked in my mind that it will be like a Porsche Boxter or another supercar and expected to much, and result is now still moaning.

I will. But if I am completely honest I'm not sure I will be "brave" enough to chech that 5.30. I mean, I've change the job, I do 1200 miles every month and only about 100 in town or twisty roads. The rest on dual carriageways. I can feel that front wheels are fighting with me on that few roundabouts I pass, trying to back to the straight position or when driving around the town and turning I feel like I must cross "a point" from which the steering is lighter. But when cruising I don't need even to keep the steering wheel because the car is so stable. And also I'm a little bit tired all that alignment issue. Within 6 months I did it 4 times so far. Spent 400 quids and now I can loose another 100 if the new settings won't be ok. I mean don't get me wrong. I really alrecciate your time spent answering me and your advice but I just don't know if I decide to set up 5.30 or stay with your settings done on WIM.

Thank you for your help.

So is it possible that to keep that camber which I have now, would be possible if castor was 5.30 but not if 6.00 ? Even if I have about 6.40 now (so quite close) ? Ehhh..... so many, many possibilities. Anyway, I don't want to bother you with my hesitations... What would you recommend If I want a little bit "lighter" steering wheel. I need to give them simple, ready numbers and so far your garage was the only one who I can relay on, but unfrotunately to far for me. Now is: Front: Camber Left - 0.57 Right - 0.53 Caster Left 6.32 Right 6.43 Toe Left 0.05 Right 0.05 Rear: Camber Left - 1.44 Right - 1.47 Toe Left 0.13 Right 0.06

Understood. Thanks. 5.30 if too heavy at low speed. What about 6.00 - exactly 6. I'm sorry if I'm annoying, I'm trying to understand all that issues with allignment.

Right, I'm going to replace a new wishbone on passenger side and of course I need an alignment once it is done. I've found a garage which claims that can set up my MX 5 like I want, I mean, the settings I will give them. So I'm going to give them as below (which was done in WIM previously) Front: Camber Left - 0.57 Right - 0.53 Caster Left 6.32 Right 6.43 Toe Left 0.05 Right 0.05 Rear: Camber Left - 1.44 Right - 1.47 Toe Left 0.13 Right 0.06 But my questions are: 1. The caster, I would like to have it on the same level (or as close as possible) should be rather closer to the 6.43 (like right front) or lower, like 6.32 ? The car is 340 mm in front. I found a post with 7.00 even 2. Now the car is stable at speed and I'm pleased with that feeling. But I wondering if the caster was about 5.70-6.00, would it be still stable when going straight or more nervous ? The reason I'm thinking about this is that the steering wheel is "heavy" now. And when turning in a long corner at speed I can feel that front wheels are trying to come back to the straight position. OK, I can live with that, but there is always a voice in my head "maybe it can be a little bit lighter but still stable on streight and fun in the corners" ?

Yyy... no, I think more negative camber would give more grip when cornering, right ? But less stability on straight.

Right, 3 weeks after my visit in WIM car drives properly. Finally ! My angles are (with Eibach 30mm spring): Front: Camber Left - 0.57 Right - 0.53 Caster Left 6.32 Right 6.43 Toe Left 0.05 Right 0.05 Rear: Camber Left - 1.44 Right - 1.47 Toe Left 0.13 Right 0.06 Since that time I've done about 2000 miles and about 4000 since lower springs were fitted. Now the car sits 345 mm in rear and 340 mm in front. I've checked on this forum mazdaspeed settings and settings are a littl bit different: Front Camber is -1.20 whereas mine is - 0.57 Rear Camber is - 2.14 whereas mine is - 1.47 max I'm just wondering what would be the difference if my settings of cambers were like mazdaspeed suggests ? Would the car be even more stable when going straight ? I guess tyres' life would be shorter... Am I right ?

???