juzzyp

I agree with all the points above. When going for a turbo install - 4 days will take up on install time, while another 4-5 days will be set aside for tuning, I researched ECU's to death. We're lucky in the Mazda world as one ECU was specifically written for the MX5 engine and the turbos that come with it called the "Link ECU" this solution is brilliant but "still" needs to "calibrated" to effectively gain the full potential from the install. Im actually having an eManage Blue installed as this fits in nicely to the solution I having installed soon, this was not done at a price point but as a solution to what I wanted. Unofrtunately alot of people bolt AFPR's (high pressure fuel pumps) to very low budget kits and add all these other toys to deal with fueling and timing and usually end up losing a piston and losing lots of fuel.

I have bought some new Mazda Sport Alloys off eBay, they are 16" rims. Now what's the difference between: 195/50/R16 and 205/45/R16 Which one do I get, I've noticed some sizes are harder come by than others. I've been quoted £65+VAT fitted per corner for Toyo T1R's for 205/45/R16 Help!!

This is not for the track but a general geometry aimed at street and track. Now these guys have considerable expertise when it comes to the MX5, they've spent 15 years developing parts for the car. What do you guys reckon to their recommended alignment settings: Front Caster: 5.0 degrees Camber: 1.0 degrees negative Toe: 1/16" total (1/32" per side) Rear Camber: 1.5 degrees negative Toe: 1/16" total (1/32" per side)

Tony - I think you might want to contact EVO magazine as they did a retest on the Mazda MX5 NC and they talked about alignment which wasn't that much out of spec. Another good source maybe the RX8 owners club, as basically the MX5 NC uses an RX8 base to build the MX5 NC from. Those would be the two sources - Im not sure if Mazda would be willing to admit there shoving out their NC's unaligned - so maybe that might be a good port of call.

I'll be coming in for a fine-tune soon, I'm going to put the turbo on but I'm well over 2000 miles so I may have to come in soon.

The new??? WIM centre - are STS moving then??? ....or are you going it alone?

Was at a local MX5 meet last night and was approached by one of the members and he couldn't thank Janey and Tony enough for sorting out his MX5. He wanted to thank Tony again for sorting out a problem because his car was eating his tyres for a living, after Tony sorted it, it made his car much much much better. The member wanted to thank Janey for sorting out a deal with Tony and getting the relationshop sorted between MX5 Owners and Tony. *I'm in no way afillated with Tony Bones - this is simply a thank you forum member "roofless driver" wanted me to pass on.

Im one of those FM Springs/KYB AGX Damper Owners and it's really improved the cornering after I fitted it, but the car needed a full geometry and now it's become really chuckable. I had been out in alot of cars with this kit on and I cannot believe how good they are. Alot of people also uprate there Anti-Roll Bars or Sway Bars (whatever you call them) but breakaway is less predictable and can often result in bad circumstances, although my friend was running a seriously agressive geometry setup when he put his MX5 in a ditch. I've stuck with the stock sway/anti roll bars and found it still rolls a bit but alot less then when it was on stock suspension. Ideally the TEIN Coilovers are highly rated, as are D2 but I wanted a proven combination that worked, so I suppose development was my main concern, installation I left to the perfomance company who fitted it. You should never skimp on price. There also an argument that uprating the bushes on a 5 will improve it, but that's nearly a grands worth of labour!!

In the Mazda MX5 Community, there tends to be massive debate over this issue. Im currently runing Toyo Proxes T1R's although I want to try some Goodyear Eagle F1's at some point but these Toyos don't want to wear out, but I'm really happy with them. I know the T1S's wear quickly but I've heard loads of good things. I tend to run my Toyos higher than stock psi as they have softer sidewalls. Stock psi is 26psi but I run 29psi, I find this helps the cars handling. Tony has already worked his magic on my car, in fact not long till I go back. Other good brands from the 5, include the already mentioned Potenza, Yokohama Advan Neova, Kumho Ecsta and Falken Azensis.