Tony

Is it to do with the tempratures generated by the tyres and the weight there have to hold up? As i said to Dan... sorry to answer a question with a question but a direct reply without making anyone think is of little value.... 'i feel'. As a rule the wider tyre holds a higher pressure, this is an attempt to reduce the contact patch and keep the tyre cool, enivitably the tyre will become hot and then achieve the actual desired manufactured pressure, so the cold suggested (fictitious) 30psi would acquire the expected 36psi when warm. Then add speed and load to the possibilities then another set of figures are born...... If the journey involves the Motorway and additional load the the manufacturer suggests an even higher starting pressure, again this is an attempt to keep the tyre cool by reducing the contact patch.... eventually all the calculations suggest an equilibrium but this is not an exacting art. So what to make of all this?........... i recommend initially be guided by the manufacturer, moniteur the wear and apply your own pressure in reply to any adverse wear, within reason!

Suspension experts where are you!............. Weight transfer and roll centre are very active as i am sure you are aware.... to me geometrically i would want the reactive balance to be near to 55/45 f/r ......... the car will need to be loose at the rear comparitivly to encourage over-steer from a stable geo, so basically you would depend on the application of thrust during 'turn on and out' with negative rear transfer, the diagonal resistance negative = 10% at the front, the actual lbs i have no idea... but i would assume high? In reality we have two topics here (suspension and Geometry) these really should be investigated independently, a marriage between the two for solution in any one thread is to complicated to be of real value. Split the topic 1: Suspension: setting/ rate/ road/ race 2: Geometry : positions/ forces/ reactions/ development Each one is a 'stand alone' debate and will offer a better overview.

Good..... hence the Lexus CZ compound....but.still take a little time to bed them in!

Categorise...... i would seem 'lowering' generates an irritating itch... a kind of initial step into poo.... but nevertheless desirable... 'interesting!'

Try some searches on line with BC and mytyre and display what you find..... after that allow interests to compete here..........

'Lowering' seems to be the norm with all cars, i wonder why so many people feel the need, is it purely ascetic?

Feel free to mention wim and our conversation, Paul ownes the centre if possible talk to him. This is a simple operator error but damaging if not addressed. Paul has my number but if you have any immediate needs contact me at work 01923 234666 and i will assist!

They will need a few hundred miles?...... for any tyre to grip (excluding wet dispersal) the rubber needs to adopt a texture like suede..... it is for this reason some cars have specific models of tyre were the initial (new) tread is extremely soft, maybe a depth of 1mm, after that the compound becomes harder. Oddly enough the Bridgestone is one of these...... is the compound 'CZ'

Yes it will... All machines require and image of the car in 3D so that the cameras can place themselves in a Horizontal, Longitudinal and Vertical plane, the wheel Diameter, wheel width and track form this image. In short the Geometry and any corrections were worthless................ sorry. Hi Tony, Thanks for the reply, the unit seemed to be just a 4 wheel laser alignment system, would this still make a difference, as the arms with the lasers on didnt seem adjustable (Sorry about my limited knowlede on the whole alignment can of worms!) This alignment was done at one of the trusted center`s on your site, I pressume i can call them and ask them to realign with the correct wheel diameter FOC? Are the readings likely to be out by much? IS the car still ok to drive? Thanks Chris Please don't ever feel the need to apologize when the talk is Geometry.... this forum is designed explicitly for people like yourself to ask questions 'live'. The 350z has a 'stand alone' new Geometry..... the positions are not born from previous 'proven' examples, unfortunately things have not gone swimmingly...for this reason the data has been subject to change and limited in availability......The centre in question phoned me today for your cars data since this was not available to them (fair play) nevertheless the operator has made a mistake and the results void. In the short term the car is safe to drive since the incorrect positions should be symmetrical, in the long term the tyres will wear! If you feel unhappy about contacting the centre i will do it for you.... in this event can you pm me your name, the cars index and a contact number.

Yes it will... All machines require and image of the car in 3D so that the cameras can place themselves in a Horizontal, Longitudinal and Vertical plane, the wheel Diameter, wheel width and track form this image. In short the Geometry and any corrections were worthless................ sorry.

Good question............no! Up front and honest wim has out grown everything including STS..... so to continue in the fashion that i image for the future i will need to set-up on my own. My new machine to be..... is top cat!.... it does all the maths measures 70% more and is even voice activated, so the 'low club' will not be a problem!

So pretty much 'hard' ...... # 1 what was it? I think it was an arm rest, followed closely by a dash tray.. Arm rest around 8 hp Dash tray around 2 hp.. not fast enough so I sold it what are you like!

So pretty much 'hard' ...... # 1 what was it?

When wim was built some two years ago i left the site open to asses what areas in the UK market (Domestic) was in distress so i could evaluate were and why...... surprisingly the main Dealers showed very little understanding toward Geometry..... For Education and example would you expose the experiences you have had that lead you online to seek resolve. Oh.... no places or names.....please!

Any probs with the law....concerning the suspect plates ive had cops in front of me, behind me and allll around me, and none have said a dickie, even when tugging me for spirited driving... You have to admit this must be luck! any copper would make a charge if they noticed the 'sticky'

Any modifications reflect some form of desire, for you what as the best and why, if things didn't work out what went wrong..... be honest as this may 'persuade or dismiss' someones future intentions......

Taking the Geom by the horns: The camber rear after lowering probably rests between 1 degree 30' to 2 degree's, assuming they are even then i would commit to that position.... personally i desire slight toe out at the rear in the area of 8' per side. The front is another issue.... Camber i feel needs to be respected at near to stock.... say 1 degree neg, this will lower the Castor slightly by about 30' and reduce the turning radius, but retain the toot... also i would add to the front toe resulting at 10' per side...then test it!

Good question..... first remember tyre pressures displayed by the manufacturer should be viewed as suggestions... within reason! move away from stock then you become the judge and jury. In answer to your question, there is a need to understand first so i question you this.... All cars display different pressures according to speed and load, do you know why? Note: this method of reply is not an attempt to belittle you, it's designed to make you think!

Hello Mad Russ. I personally have to take a back seat on the suspension set-up but many here are well educated on the topic. The Theoretical is born from the missing elements like wheel/KPI off-set and other areas like sway bars/braces etc....then there is the need to understand what the driver requires the car to do..... in addition i would need to know exactly how adjustable the car is.... seemingly the camber and toe front and rear is catered for but is there any castor adjustment available? Also never be ashamed to image another persons provan positions and re-construct them to suit.

Any probs with the law....concerning the suspect plates

The most common complaint after front wheel alignment is the end position of the steering wheel this is a visual indication that 1: The workmanship was poor 2: The equipment is inadequate 3: Alignment was never the real problem 4: The manufactured cars axle is miss-aligned Nearly every alignment test in the World is sold to the customer by the shop based on visual wear on the tyres at the end of there life, inevitable history of past alignment problems would still exist on the face of the tyre, born from this visible wear and potential loss of the new replacements a customer could assume a problem still exists and is easily sold. Taking 1 to 4 here are my thoughts)- 1: No legal responsibility is required to ascertain the understanding of the technician who sets the direction of your £50.000 (theoretical) car with the new £500 front tyres, most common is a 'drive by' smattering of knowledge that involves undoing of nuts and about ten minutes additional time whilst you pay the bill, (so knowledge maybe why) 2: There are many machines on the market that promise different levels of alignment, most common is 'front wheel alignment' this form is the most damaging and by today's standard only suitable for the horse and cart, can i remind you that the car has 'Four Wheels', (so the equipment maybe why) 3: With the magnitude of problems expressed though the tyres during their life span it would be easy to assume alignment is to blame. Current issues with the Geometry or the cars health in general will cause untold affects toward the tyres and handling, this does not dismiss the fact that 'at the time' the alignment may be incorrect, (so maybe the car is why) 4: There are occasional manufacturing reasons that deceives the operator, this is unusual and depends on equipment, this is most times geometrically undetectable (so maybe the construction is why) Taking all possibilities into consideration the common denominator is the Thrust Angle the cars true centre that most angles depend on as reference......simple as that! (click to re-size) Any method that attempts to imagine the front wheels forward position relative the the fixed rear thrust angle will result in the need for the driver to compensate and manufacture a new centre line at the steering wheel, if any adjustments made do not respect the true 'Thrust Angle' then the resulting drive will mean the steering wheel is off-line.

We all like to take our modifications to the limit but how far 'legally' can you go! Areas like number plates, tinted glass and exhausts are common modifications, what problems have these caused you with the law or any other areas like MOT.

This is not deliberate i assure you! In a forum promoting Geometry a request involving the topic will receive this sort of reply. Often there will be a need to 'refine' the question since the response could become 'distant' in understanding and of little value! The Nemesis of Geometry are the variables, the wim forum will dismantle the variables at all levels 'over time', gradual explanation from experts will enforce desire....but again this will take time. .......for the 1/4...... give me a kick from the above topics (one area) so we can expand....

In research i was warned not to have the engine running or turn the steering since the pressure from the pump would overwhelm the passive return feed? and result in everyone covered in oil.. I agree with you and feel the pump should 'purge' the steering under pressure.. any thoughts on this 'don't do it' warning?

1/4 mile is a good example for the complexities within Geometry.... and healthy for debate. Some history first? some...'nay'....many years ago i was asked to consider the Geometrical positions of a 'Funny car' running at the Pod..... 'no worries' i thought ' point forward and 'nail it'.... how wrong i was! Launch delivers lateral and centrifugal forces to the rear tyres and means a Positive/ Negative reply toward the engines rotational inertia... (Mechanical Engineers) would understand this better than me, but the consequence means the rear will definitely 'kick out'... problem #1 Assuming the 'kick can be controlled' then the front obviously needs to be steered during shift, but with the consideration of accelerated down force, and the impact ratio on the front, which is descending in impact but increasing in down force during the 1/4 mile....problem # 2 Front camber/toe needed to be realised from the point the wheels left the ground to all the descending consequences during compression and down force....problem # 3 By # 4 i had a nose bleed.... but i did set the car for a few seasons Back to the initial question... fwd.... pod....launch.... for debate i would lean toward rear dampers % and front Toe.... 'Traction and Application'