Tony

wim ever inquisitive supports Drift for it's skill and dependency mechanically and Geometrically a real relationship. Mat Clawley AKA Monster Mat in LOC (Lexus Owners Club) now has his deserved Eurodrift licence and will be visible this season, to assist him wim asks can any 'Trusted centres' make available wast tyres for Mat's track/race days Sizes required: 225/40-18....255/35-18....or ...215/40-17....235/40-17...and 245/40-17 No injured/repaired tyres are suitable due to the high speeds ascertained by the car and as much tread available would be appreciated since a new tyre only has a 15min lifespan during Drift displays. wim assures no tyre will be for re-sale and all spent casings will be disposed of through registered channels, namely me. Time to rise and shine TC's who knows what will evolve from supporting this new (UK) vibrant sport

Models-inmotion how scary is that .... I like the DPAE86 it reminds me of the Monster.... and since it's to become D2 (Drifty 2) then destiny suggests this is the one..... Bloody expensive though arent they

That's what I thought - hard grey plastic "tyres"... Someone had suggested if you want to do it without mashing up your own tyres (they do cost like about £5 a corner you know! + balancing, valves and disposal... LOL), is to wrap it with a few layers of electricians tape... Not tried it yet, as my car is a bit broken as I snapped the axel over the weekend D. I feel the plastic tyres belay grip.... the models would not have the power to drift real rubber don't you think?..... Sorry about the axle.... Superglue is good You'd be suprised Tony - much of the fun is doing "Hand brake turns" with r/c cars - can be done with any reasonably well powered r/c car (be-it electric or nitro fuel powered). For full on drifting though, I guess they will have to use something to reduce the resistance on the road... unless you drop a supercharger in the car! lol And Superglue aint gonna last 2 seconds on the road... have ordered replacements now anyway So, when R U going to get one Tony? Give your bike a run for its money! Give me a link?.... my interest would only be for the drift design.... were is the best place to look?...(not flee bay) though

Quick and easy to fit.... Cost per unit £20- £30 depending in the size... Adjustment range +- 1 deg 45' The bolts have an offset internal cam, not just a smaller diameter to achieve the adjustment. They are stretch bolts and can be considered permanent..... Point to note they cannot be fitted within an active bushing. wim says: I really like these, they are cheap and make a massive adjustment range available recovering the most desperate of modified positions.

I feel proud that my limited knowledge and question was a valid one... The Hub mounted Dyno's cost reflects the machines accuracy, if i were a customer i would respect that... For the record the explanation on your web site explains the complexities of Dyno very well..... Very well indeed

Consider me fully educated, that link is superb.... no wonder tdiplc are leaders in their field!

That's what I thought - hard grey plastic "tyres"... Someone had suggested if you want to do it without mashing up your own tyres (they do cost like about £5 a corner you know! + balancing, valves and disposal... LOL), is to wrap it with a few layers of electricians tape... Not tried it yet, as my car is a bit broken as I snapped the axel over the weekend D. I feel the plastic tyres belay grip.... the models would not have the power to drift real rubber don't you think?..... Sorry about the axle.... Superglue is good

The general idea is not to place yourself in a risky situation in the first place and if things do start to go boobies up, act in a way which will not further increase the risk to yourself. Example.......I frequently get stopped at military or police roadblocks where the men have obviously been drinking / chewing kat / smoking weed and are out to collect "tips". Rather than have an AK pointed up my nose and dash them $10, I keep a stock of cheapo bic biros in the glovebox and I'll give out a couple of these (in West Africa, the number of biros in one's shirt pocket tends to indicate one's importance), and it works every time! In general, the West African bad guys want to take your money, not to physically harm you. West Africans have a great sense of humour and it's fairly easy to throw in a few jokes which turn a dodgy situation into one where the risk is greatly reduced. It always makes me laugh when I see a Johnny-Just-Come expat trying to shout and scream his way out of trouble.....it just doesn't work! I don't know what to say Mike This insight seems surreal, I can sort of understand the Armed forces obeying orders in a hot zone but your situation is without defence (no tanks) i can only admire your attitude and demand your careful and vigilant....

In Rides today the topic was the American D1....... fascinating viewing.... one area that did become apparent was the rear tyre size, indeed they are 225 to 255mm wide with a race life expectancy of 15min I personally thought 'Kissing' the wall showed exceptional skill.......

RFT dan

Now there's a thought! technically the Geom would support the modifications so technically it should be declared..... Nah what insurance company would understand this?..... would the policy be by degrees or decrees

Not quite.. in the equation there is the cars inertia then the braking force then the reactive force... My mind suggests that if the caliper is in front of the disc then the brake/inertia/reactive force should compress directly at the tyre.... whereas if the caliper is behind then the brake/inertia/reactive force would be directed initially positively at the suspension. The steering rack is as you suggest a visible combination i don't feel comfortable assuming the caliper position is just for convenience during development, i hope there is more to the story.

There is a direct correlation between the position of the brake caliper and the type of drive the car has... Most: FWD have the caliper at the front of the disc. Most: RWD have the caliper at the rear of the disc. WHY! I understand that there are Kinetic forces involved but i still cannot find a absolute reason for these deliberate manufactured positions..... If there is no direct reason then why do Super cars have split brake systems Nosedive and positive loading at the coils exists in both formats.. I can only assume the kinetic direction is deliberate (up or down) any thoughts....

I truly respect these owner drivers What impresses me is the power to weight ratio allowing the Drift.... very very clever.... I honestly may get a car so i can experience how the Geometry effects the models... and peeps they do have Geometry ....... plus i bet they are good over spiders (another story)

A concealed button that you need to press each time the driver's door is closed....if not....then after 2 mins the alarm starts to cut the fuel and the lights flash / horn sounds and the car comes to a halt! I sometimes forget to press the button and have errrrm, suffered some3 embarrasment as a result! You forget......nah!... distracted methinks... This is a valid question so don't think I'm taking the Mickey.... If you have the carjack fitted is this displayed as a warning on the car?... like a sticker or something? No...there is no warning sticker or anything. If a potential carjacker spies a warning sticker then all he has to do is to hold a gun/knife/superglue to the driver's head in order to source the secret button. Never thought of that!... I have to ask 'doesn't' all this bother you!.... your job puts you in harms way everyday.. recently you commented of a friend who was shot and killed, how do you remain calm when at any moment violence beckons...

Limited as my knowledge is, i still attempt to understand all things modified mechanically, but i have a question . As i understand the Dyno measures the engines performance at the wheels and then the flywheel.. I thought this was done on a rolling road... Today i watched a Dyno being measured with a machine mounted directly at the rear drive shaft without the wheel fitted... How accurate can this be since there is no rolling resistance acting on the tyre

Good story Tony. Good to see that exceptional service is still appreciated sometimes Never did i expect such a reward, the £200 was very welcomed The real reward was that i manage to preempt the outcome.... This was totally satisfying and i had a little head wobble when no one was looking

one of my customers bought a new Cayenne and had four 22" wheels sent over from Germany, running 285-35/22 Continental tyres, total cost was £10.000 or so .. anyhoo as soon as the wheels were fitted the car had vibration... The wheel fitment was clinical so no spigot rings were necessary.... off-set and scrub radius fell within all parameters so why the vibration?. I balanced the wheels on a studded plate, but still the vibration persists, detectable as low as 25mph, obviously this issue is not balance, and since the wheels are 'con-centric' then the problem must be due to the tyres? Continental said they would inspect the tyres for distortion and pay for the transportation of the tyres off the rims.. but no local centre was able to remove the tyres since they were 22" and most machines only support 20" including STS... so i had a mobile racing company remove the tyres and then i sent them to Continental. In advance i assumed the tyres were to blame so i sourced four tyres from all corners of the UK 285-35/22... Continental confirmed the tyres were at fault and agreed to replace them free of charge but unfortunately they had no stock in the UK..... but i did I had the new tyres fitted, i balanced them and the vibration problem was solved...... Here comes the nice part? The owner gave me a £200 tip ...... all that work out of sight did really pay..... £200 was extorsionate i agree, but nice cat stayed in that night. Moral is: Even the top manufacturers can be wrong, to preempt a conclusion is healthy and possibly rewarding

which, is all in hand, i have a semi prepared subframe, with said solid aluminum diff mounts Good work Mat stop your making me dribble from this frame and she is a beaut what next? Remember my wondering was the fact PB are in essence shock absorbers, how rigid can a frame be?

The 'Racer' tricks can you elaborate please..... i remember seeing this topic in LOC but the 1.5 million replies in the development of the Drifty is a little deep for research. One of the "tricks" was used on the Monster. Even though the TRD heavy duty rubber rear diff mounts were employed, there was still far too much torque which was creating excessive movement in the diff. What we did to eleviate this problem (we could have made solid metal bushes to the detriment of user comfort - noise, virabtion and harshness etc) was to manufacture some spacers to compress the rubber bushes and positively locate the centre sleeves. It seems to have worked so far, and lived through a bit of drifting too Very clever.. i wonder though?, since the bushings are in effect shock absorbers, if the absorption is reduced to far could this assume mechanical damage, or rapid wear to the bushings... i understand your example is specific and i only enquire generally. A good point well made. In this particular instance we didn't persieve the need for diff mounts to act as "shock absorbers"- just as "insulators" to reduce noise, vibration and harshness. The more we can reduce the differential movement - the better (without compromising the "road manners"). Job done However, I suspect that the reincarnation of the Monster in the form a Drift Racer could well justify the installation of solid aluminium diff mounts. Unique evolutions developing unprecedented future standards..... i love it

The 'Racer' tricks can you elaborate please..... i remember seeing this topic in LOC but the 1.5 million replies in the development of the Drifty is a little deep for research. One of the "tricks" was used on the Monster. Even though the TRD heavy duty rubber rear diff mounts were employed, there was still far too much torque which was creating excessive movement in the diff. What we did to eleviate this problem (we could have made solid metal bushes to the detriment of user comfort - noise, virabtion and harshness etc) was to manufacture some spacers to compress the rubber bushes and positively locate the centre sleeves. It seems to have worked so far, and lived through a bit of drifting too Very clever.. i wonder though?, since the bushings are in effect shock absorbers, if the absorption is reduced to far could this assume mechanical damage, or rapid wear to the bushings... i understand your example is specific and i only enquire generally.

Not for testing purposes... Oh OK. Well my 14" rims are on and it still pulls to the left. I did do a trackday on these tyres thou i keep looking at your geo report and although i'm not happy with the - + castor positions this would not pull left... the only Geometrical possibility is the OSF Camber position being -more the the NSF... domestically the disparity would not be an issue, i feel your modified car is sensitive to the camber position and the next realistic course of action would be to re-position the OSF camber.

The 'Racer' tricks can you elaborate please..... i remember seeing this topic in LOC but the 1.5 million replies in the development of the Drifty is a little deep for research.

Was a close shave don't you think

by feel Indeed the best example.... but what if!..... i calculated the moment of inertia Geometrically, would this be beneficial or dismissed by the driver?... To calculate this i would need the COG ratio to determine the polar centre.... Blind i assume the driffty is 60/40?... possibly a 70/30?