Mat

but surely a rigid frame makes all geometery settings more stable, albeit the suspension components are under greater load, but given that the frame doesnt twist around its axis 3 dimensionally the suspension will act exactly the same under every different condition once the varibles are dialled into the suspension.. i know that after the braces were fitted to the Blue drift car, the shell seam welded, the roll cage fitted, and the car corner weighted, and the geometery set up, that the car was predictable time and time again

going off what my old rover race car had ...neutral rear set up, onb the front neg camber and slight toe in i cant remember the actual settings, as it was a fair few years ago...also my settings were a little more due to the fact it was a track only car, as for anti roll bars they were std roversport items. intrestingly though, all the roversport suspension parts are usable on the Honda, as all the rover 200s/honda Civic/accord circa 1990-95 shared the same floorpans/suspension etc etc i will however try and dig out the different settings i used

225,235,245 - 18 are all usable as the smaller tyres will still fit the 9.5 j rim....with a bit of bead blasting same with the 17s really, 215,225,235,245...and i could even fit 255 as ive just picked up some supra rims aswell just purchased x10 18 tyres ranging from 225/40/18(x2) 235/40/18(x2) to 255/35/18(x4) for £360

which, is all in hand, i have a semi prepared subframe, with said solid aluminum diff mounts

by feel

as i said the car still requires a level of grip even during drift angles, no grip, no control. the tyre aspect ratio, should be a trade and compliment the level of power, low powered cars will not have as much grip, high powered cars need more grip

poly bushes do deteriate, at a greater rate than good quality rubber bushes. hence why TRD use a rubber compound compared to poly bushes which is the general norm for aftermarket suppliers there are several "Racer" tricks that can be adopted to "enhance" certain std rubber bushes on a cars suspenson

thats power over, drift is continues sideways slide...a fishtail doesnt constitute a drift a good vid here showing Drift, and the driver imputs....(jane myay like one of the cars me thinks) Drift vid

Toe out

depends in what context of the set up of a panhard rod but it should be measured, before and after, and done with no weight on the rear wheels i found a pretty good write up here Panhard set up

wire throttle + accelerator cable........ Tiss the same thing. not really, the cable is, just that a sleaved cable , the fly by wire throttle uses a varible resistance sensor on the throttle pedal or throttlebody(is200) and converts this signal for the ecu which then tells the throttle stepper motor what and how much to turn, if the system fails the mechanical cable still acts, on the throttle but the engine will only run in limp mode a similer fall back is used in steer by wire systems, there will always be a mechanical fall back

good to see someone else likes to take tinkering serious, as opposed to buying of the shelf stuff

from some development cars ive seen last year there still is a column, for safety, as with the Lexus, which has drive by wire throttle, theres still an accelerator cable

What sizes and type of tyres do you need Mat... i will Pm you Tony

well another place i have used in the past till they started supplying crap i paid £5 for the tyre, id be happy to pay £10 per tyre, and then dispose of the used tyres myself however in the situation that i now find myself in that i WILL be competeing having just obtained my Drift license...i can offer far more in Advertising

indeed and we have discussed it before tony.....is it still a goer

that is correct, however the car is knocking under compression so the open length is irelevent exactly the same as the TTE/HKS/TRD coils and pretty much every other coilover (hence coil-over), there has to be a minimum height and a maximum height, in the specifications, im not on about physical adjustment, the parameters set by the manufacturer im not disputing, the play, im saying if set up within the specified open/closed length then there should be no piston contact to me it sounds more of a case that a generic cylinder is being used with a generic piston and rod, the only specifics are the physical mounting points, a well designed coilover will allow for enough piston travel at full closed length it seems so, which is a shame, a coilover should allow full use of its available designed travel without interferance from ill correctly matched piston, or damping valves

205/50/17 it will make your speedo 0.2% faster

no even on coilovers, the stroke of the piston will be within the area covered by the maximum and minimum height of the coils, if you raise, or lower the car outside of the agreed parameters of course your going to run into problems, but i would still be supprised to see there being contact, i had 50mm shorter springs fitted to the TTE dampers, and they still do not knock, as the piston is still operating within its maximum travel on the compression stroke

the knock would not be the piston making contact, if this was the case then the stroke of the damper has been critically designed,badly!! the knock usually comes from the spherical top mounts if fitted, moreso the problem can be caused by piston movement inside the damper body

depending on car, the rear brake valve is affected by bed height, some models this can be adjusted, such as VW's

the system is bleed by turning from lock to lock untill the required level is shown on the pot fluid change is done by draining the system, the pump shouldnt be used to empty the system as power steering pumps overheat very quickly if not lubricated by oil