TarkMalbot

My intentions are to change the look from standard with slightly lower offset and a different style rim. Although I want the looks I still want it to be practicle and a good handling car hence why I am sticking with 17"s and trying to keep the un sprung weight as light as I can without spending too much money. The car will be used for general day to day car but with some fast fun at the weekend and maybe even a track day some time (I might stick a set of track tyres on my other wheels for that) It will have the Cosworth Supercharger so the extra weight of the tyres shouldn't affect the power delivery that much but don't want to change the handling too much. Is it worth going up a few tyre sizes with the extra power? I have read lots of different things about contact patches not increaded with wider tyres and it all to do with weight and pressure in the tyres and that a thinner tyre will have a longer contact patch? Can you shed any technical light on that?

Sure have. And they were twisted. Got a local back street garage to change them for me as I didn't have the time or equipment and noticed the bushes as soon as I picked it up. The fitting price was good though and it only took me 10 mins to release the bushes so no big deal. Ride height is pretty much spot on now and I am much happier with the looks and handling. Really looking forward to seeing how the Geometry makes it feel as I have heard 100's of "It has transformed my car" stories.

This is why I am asking in my other thread if I should be putting wider than 205 on a 7.5" rim. Seeing that Lupo makes me think it wont be that stretched. I was only thinking of 215 on the 7.5" rim cos I like the look of the tyres when they are wider than the rim. PS I do like that Lupo but its not the look I am after on my "Roadster"

I currently have standard 17x7" wheels on my car with 205/40/17 tyres. The have an offset of 55. I am looking at getting some after market wheels but don;t want to add weight if possible. I have been looking at Rota light weight wheels but 17x7.5" seem the most common size. The offset is either 45 or 48 but I am happy with that as I do like the wider stance and know from my last MX-5 that even with ET42 clearance isn't a problem. The wheel packages all seem to come with 205 tyres but I wanted to know if this was the best size on a 7.5" rim. Should I go for a 215/40/17 or is it not worth the extra cost and weight? I guess this will also be a higher profile tyre so will that affect the geometry and handling? Lastly I have been offered some new wheels with Yokohama Prada Spec 2 tyres. I was looking at the Toyo T1-R upgrade most wheel packages offer. I noticed some places offer the Yokos as standard and the Toyo option is an extra £55. Does this mean the Toyos are better or are the Yokos just a good deal? Sorry for all the questions. Thanks in advance Mark.

I got myself some ARBs. I thought I would try the IL Motorsport items as I was interested in the use of aluminium and the weight saving. I know they are not adjustable but at 35% stiffer than standard I feel they flatten the car out well but do not make the ride any less comfortable. They are a good price too! Thanks for all the advice though guys! Sorry Tony but I went for the Eibach springs at the same time and fitted them together. They were a good deal and I couldn't wait to get it lowered! I still need to come and see you sometime about the geometry but it is going to be about March time. Hopefully the springs should have settled by then too. I will be getting the Cosworth fitted at the same time so might have that to show you too.

I drove the S2000 and then bought the MX-5! lol The S2000 may be faster on paper but with all the high revs to get it going you will find the MX-5 is faster most of the time. The interior is nicer, it is more comfortable, cheaper to run, insure and tax and I think it looks pretty good too. Oh and when I get the Cosworth fitted there is no way a S2000 will be faster any way you look at it and it will have still cost me £6,000 less than an S2000 but with much more power and more usable. Not that you missus is likely to want to get it supercharged! lol Just my 2p stickign up for the under dog.

I understand you don't want to be centre of all purchasing solutions but without ever having had aftermarket ARB's and not having all of them to try I value your comments and ideas as someone I regard as a specialist in the area. I don't mind spending the extra money getting a better product but if a cheaper one will offer me the same or better results and save weight at the same time then I am all for the IL Motorsports Aluminium ARB's. Once the car is set up I wont be changing the ARB settings again but I don't know where to start. If I get the right setup with a fixed set then that will do me.

I thought you said it would be better to get Adjustable ARB's? IL Motorsports are not adjustable and 35% stiffer than standard but 45% Lighter. Are these a good option if you also use adjustable drop links? The IL Sway Bars are a good price too and the cheapest I have found for the NC

How much are your coils and drop links?

Oh I see. It is the Eibachs that sell a 45mm Kit as far as I know. Here are my findings: H&R say their springs are 1.4" (35mm) Front and 1.3" (33mm) Rear but mx5parts advertise them as -40mm.. H&R ARB are adjustable front and rear and the diameters are 22mm front and 16mm rear. Eibach do the Pro-Kit with 30-35mm front and 30mm rear although mx5parts advertise them as 30mm Front 25mm Rear (standard Mazda option) Also the Sportline springs 45-50mm front and rear. I guess these are the ones you don't like. Eibach ARBs are 26mm front and are adjustable and 16mm rear non adjustable. What is the RRP for your springs and are they equal drop front and rear? Would you advise ARB to go with your springs to get the best out of the handling. I want it to handle as well as it can using the original bilstein shocks. I don't think I need to replace them just for road use.

That sunds interesting. Would this kit mean the car would no longer benefit from ARB? Any reason your not a fan of the H&R stuff?

You can't adjust the rear though? What I am asking is if the rear is not adjustable then would you have the front soft or hard to match the back? I could go for H&R Springs and ARB as I think they are adjustable front and rear?? Still also wondering about the 45mm drop on the Eibachs as it is just SOOOO high as standard!

Thanks for the info guys. I have got rid of the 1.8 Icon and now have a 2.0 Sport. Going to get this one lowered with 30mm Eibachs and ARB kits as soon as I can. The Eibachs are adjustable at the front but not the back. What would work best to match the rear bar and the eibach springs? Hard (short lever arm 172mm) or Soft (Long lever arm 192mm) Bar diameter on the front is 26mm X 4.2mm and back is 16mm. Thanks, Mark.

Sorry for being a numpty but what are these "Drop Links" you speak of?

I am thinking of having some anti roll bars fitted when I finally get round to getting the Geometry set up! I have read a few things on different places about fitting them yourself and wanted to know if it was worth doing myself or just paying somone to do it as I dont have a ramp and may not be able to jack the car up enough? I think I would have to buy them from the place that was fitting them as I dont think they would fit in the car for me to take them along. And I guess I wouldn't be able to take the originals back home with me either? Also what Anti Roll Bars would you recommend? I have seem IL Motorsports make Aluminium ones, Eibach make them too (they would match my springs) and also heard Cusco make a set for it too. Is there any others out there worth looking at? I hear the RX-8 items fit too but is it worth getting these or just getting aftermarket ones? Also heard about some of them being adjustable. Are these recommended or is it not something you change very often when they are right? Thanks very much. Mark.

Nice! Like the exhaust and diffuser. Good Work!

Anyone tried a Wizards Of Nos Nitrous Injection Kit? I am considering it over the Supercharger and Turbo Charger as I don't think they will be suitable for the 1.8 as they have been developed for the 2.0. I have read up a lot about the kits online and don't know if I should go for the single nozzle or if the 4 point direct injection would be better on my car. Was hoping the single point would fit into my aftermarket intake so that the original parts on the car would not need to be drilled etc etc. If the single point still has to be drilled into the Mazda componants then I would consider the 4 point system. Any advice? PS. Car is Mazda MX-5 NC 1.8 with Fujita CAI.

I have touched the bottom of my bumper on the speed bumps in my street but not to worry. I only noticed when I had the bumper off to fit the intake. Now I take them very very slowly..

Long story but the place I got them from sent the wrong wheels at first and then no locking wheel nuts. I dont rate them anyway as I have got locking wheel nuts off before without the tool and have sent my car to the garage plenty of times without giving them the key and they managed.. If someone wants the wheels they will have them locking wheel nuts or not.

Even though mine is now lowered I dont think it looks low. It just looks normal to me but I guess that what the lowering kit does. It looks normal until you park it next to a standard NC and then realise just how high it used to be!

Thanks very much. I know I'm sad but I cant help looking at it. lol

More photos just cos I am obsessed!:

Glad you like it. It's been getting all my attention recently! That's lowering springs, exhaust, air intake, fog lights, side repeaters, short ariel and now wheels and tyres. I think its finished for now anyway! Maybe a Geometry setup one day when I'm passing your spot!

I have ssen the Blitz Turbo kit and the Cosworth Supercharger but I will have to wait for a while before going down that road. As for removal of the filter; this can be done by removing the screws in the lower panel under the bumper. Not a big job. I gave it a blast this morning with the power washer too before I remembered it was behind the grille and then thought ah well and gave it a bit of a clean. As it doesn't need oil and the cleaning instructions say use soapy water I thought it would be ok just to get the flies and leaves off. I have thought about the hydrolocking situation and know I will have to stay out of deep puddles to aviod sucking in water. I have been out in the rain and pray from other vehicles and it has run fine. I have seen water covers that are available but these must affect the air flow? And I have thought about a guard to stop splashes but this would make the forced air effect not work. I think I will just avoid deep puddles for now and use it as my summer intake. lol.

Final install looks like this: