chris7676

OK, 1pm sounds great. will be there.

1st Dec would be OK then, ideally early afternoon if possible ?

Tony, I know it's little notice but would this Saturday suit you for me to come to the WIM? Anyway any number I can call you on directly ?

It it not just one wheel so more like the struts than the bolts or something in between them ? What are the "radical steps" btw ?

Yes, the only reason was hard driving and not even kerbs, so shouldnt be happening. Tony - it would be in a few weeks time on an october saturday, anyway what can be done to ensure it doesnt move again - anything I can get sorted before or after the re-alignmenent?

It's the left rear only visibly now, though the previous time most positions moved (just looking at the printout).

Tony - the car is a 1988 model, and as you suggested I got the bolts from Deamon Tweaks, the part number 81250 for all the wheels. Was also wondering if it's possible that the standard camber adjusting plates that apparently are normally there wouldnt make it more likely to move? So...

Was wondering what the practical influence on car's handling and feel toe settings have, especially in a mind-engined car. Apparently in theory toe-in increases stability while to-out encourages turning. However some suggested that some FRONT toe-in actually improves turn-in and improves front grip. Based on my (limited) MR2 MK1 experience, I used to have a big front toe-out (over 4mm) before the alignment, then 1.5mm toe-in after, and now it's parallel. Interestingly, the toe-out didnt make the car unstable but made it felt willing in turns. Subjetively toe-in felt not so turn-happy though the initial bite seemed better. They may have been other factors, yet camber & castor influence seems easier to grasp, while toe seems more subtle though apparently very important. So what's the real influence on handling? Any practical experiences and feedback?

So, after I got the camber adjusting bolts as suggested by Tony, my MR2 mk1 was setup with -1 fronts and -1.5 rears. Did the track day when I span after which the camber lost its initial settings - to around +1 especially on the leftside rears (so you could see that easily)! Back to WIM, Tony set that again to what it should be. Now, after another track just after a day of proper though not even sideways driving it happened again... Can not believe this is the way it should be only because you drive you car harder (anyway without it you wouldnt really want more negative camber). Are the bolts not the right one for my car or have they not been fitted properly by Kipling's ? Bit annoying to say the least, what is the solution ?