littlebrownbike

Hi, It is a mk3 mondeo, all the bushes were cheked while on the ramp...they are tight as a drum. In the space between those two alignment print outs, my new front offside tyre has worn badly on the inside.

Lets assume its the same?

The reason that I ask this, is that I had my alignment checked less than 2,000 miles ago....and the results differed to that of the today. Let me explain. 77,700 miles, but with no correction - I left it how it is. 79,230 miles, still no changes to the car, but the alignment has some how fixed itself. The alignment was then fixed.

It was a pig getting the ball joint off the arm, according to Ford the subframe needs to be lowered to change the bushes but I'm not sure how the garage did it.

What makes you say that Tony? I'm not sure how they did it.

Paid £36 for joint, but the riverts were a pig to get out and it turned out it would have been cheaper to buy the whole arm in the long run. You live and learn eh. Got the bushes done too, check the difference, although it does appear the new bush is a bit squashed...the offside looks more relaxed? Perhaps the nearside of my car is slightly lower. Before After

These little bastards, too wide to straddle smoothly (in my car), and bloody awful if you drive with 1 or more wheels on them. Whats best for the life of the suspension, and the alignment?

I'm having trouble getting the correct part at the moment. A few places have advertised ST220 parts, but when I phone them up to order them "Oh sorry we dont actually sell parts for the ST220, only the normal Mondeo". This leaves ebay at £30 for the joint or £70 for the arm, according to the garage the labour charge is the same for both (3/4 of an hour).

Sorry, I didn't mean the effects of wear and tear. My point was, is it true that as the tread depth reduces, the quality of the rubber decreases (and therefore gets harder, lasts longer). For example (assuming all factors remain the same, this is what I have been told); A tyre starts with 8mm, it does 5,000 miles and now has 4mm tread, having used 4mm. Now at 4mm, the same tyre does an additional 5,000 miles, but as the tread is now harder, it only wears half as much, resulting in 2mm tread.

Is it true, that a tyres compound degrades / gets harder as it wears, if so why? I appreciate the blocks may move around less and have less flex, but I wouldn't expect a significant difference in the quality of the compound.

Question is, if the CV joint was damaged, wouldn't it have shown straight away? Where as the ball joint would fail gradually, which would fit into the time frame that I am experiencing. I have never experienced a defective ball joint so its hard to know what to look for. As for the clip holding on the CV boot, it doesnt look new, but it looks a damn sight cleaner than the drivers side.

I have just had a brain wave Car was fine, up until I got the wheel bearing replaced, which now it seems didn't need replacing (garage said it didn't need it either). I had previously checked the suspension & drivetrain out a few days before and everything was in order. Wheel bearing replaced, check car and notice split rubber as seen in the pictures. I think this is fair to say that it broke when the hub was removed. Now a clicking noise as started, I thought it was the ball joint wearing out (what noise do they make?) but now it has been suggested its the CV joint. Who's to say the mechanic was ruff and damaged the CV joint too by holding it at a angle? this would suit in with the damage to the ball joint gaiter. I hope this is not the case, as I think the drie shaft would have to be replaced. and obviously, I have no way of proving the garage did this. I guess only time will tell.

Excuse me, how would one perform this?

For example, Ford Ranger Pickup. The front rides over speed bumps well, but the rear suspension bangs. However when loaded up, the back is silent. I would say my ST220 is similar, but by no means abrupt. I have noticed though, that flogging a laden Mondeo round the ring takes away all the confidence LOL. (and yes steering goes lighter but not something Joe bloggs would notice)

Clicking is usually CV joint related but normally at low speeds when steering. That did occur to me, but I have no reason to suspect CV joint...better not be... I did have a similar Mondeo that needed a CV joint and that noise was more significant. May leave it till the banging gets a bit worse to confirm LOL.

So is the car any more comfortable, or just less bouncy?

20 days later, an occassional clicking noise is becoming apparent when steering sharply.

How is a vehicles ride and handling affected when it is laden? I find most cars seem a bit stiff and bouncy at the rear, but when laden they ride more smoothly which is odd as you would think an extra 500kg over the rear axle would generate more work for the suspension.

I have yet to go on the motorway since swapping the wheels, but the noise does appear occassionally at 30-40mph, it's not consistent at all. I guess the wheel bearing I had replaced didn't need doing after all.

No need to spend money if its not needed, even if Delphi are rubbish, it would surely last long enough to outlive the existing bushes.

Very good point, bloke at the garage said theres a strong chance Delphi make the original arms. Well you can see the condition of the bush on the previous page. I think its too good to throw away, so maybe £10 ball joint and 30 odd quid labour is the way to go. Can get the Anti roll bar bushes done too then an alignment & she'll be ready for another track day.

Lads...are "Delphi" parts any good? Reason I ask is a wishbone from Ford is £160 or so, and a Delphi part is £40 from my local garage which would also fit it for £20. (Delphi ball joint is £10 but labour may be more). Opinions?

Should have figured that, I prefer the word "lower arm"

"bones"? Would a garage rivvet the new ball joint on or bolt it on?

Thanks for your input mate.