Bazza
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Posts posted by Bazza
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i think that the right bar can be one of the best improvements
lowering with stiffer bars do compliment each other
on the IS200 thicker bars improved the cornering immensly without any noticable detriment to the comfort levels, gave a greater feel of confidence
as to which comes first
i personally would do bars first
and lowering second
although i dont think it matters, but feel that the two should go hand in hand with each other
As a percentage how much do you think the new front bar helped the handling?... And have you noticed a movement in the roll centre?
handling wise its got to be 100%, it really did make a vast improvement
the lexus range are fairly wallowy cars, the pursuit of a comfortable drive
by stiffening up, with no loss of comfort its all plusses
unless its being really pushed it basically stays flat !
you loose that feeling off falling off your seat, which in turn helps the driving of the car
however there are times when you have to push it
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baz, let me look over on some forums i've read about this problem before, will let you know i fi find anything
cheers nick
all help appreciated
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will be looking at this tomorrow
resetting the actuator
and seeing what results from it
fingers crossed
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i think that the right bar can be one of the best improvements
lowering with stiffer bars do compliment each other
on the IS200 thicker bars improved the cornering immensly without any noticable detriment to the comfort levels, gave a greater feel of confidence
as to which comes first
i personally would do bars first
and lowering second
although i dont think it matters, but feel that the two should go hand in hand with each other
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bumpity bump
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This one is for Tony and any other suspension Genii.
We are developing a new road orientated suspension kit for a car (secret squirrel at the moment) using 3 way adjustable dampers.
We have seen truly amazing results on the track using this system (2 seconds per lap), and was wondering if anyone has any thoughts on this concept or has tried it?
Thanks
what about us mere mortals
when you say three way adjustable dampers, do you mean height and damping adjustable,
i am using the D2`s on the starlet, and they have an infinate amount of different adjustments, but are track orientated, which means although the can be adjusted for road use they are allways a bit stiff and therefore a bit uncomfortable for everyday road use
presuming road orientated would have a more comfortable ride, but be less suitable for track use
is it possible to have the best of both worlds !!
Three way (or even better four way) adjustable damping is perfect for us mere mortals
Let me explain (tapping chalk on blackboard) if I may?
A two way adjustable damper allows you to adjust both bump (compression) and rebound (extension) rates to optimise handling to suit the application in normal use. That's fine, but what happens when the wheel hits a bump or pot hole? The car is sent completely off line because it's applying the same bump/rebound setting to a very fast change in cirumstances as is to it's normal operating conditions.
What 3 and 4 way adjustable dampers allow you to do is to also set the bump and rebound for rapid reactions as well as for the normal slow reacting conditions.
I'm not very good at explaining things so I hope that made sense
Clearly, there is a layer of cost attached to this so it's not cheap, but anyone that has driven a car with good and bad suspension will know that it's money well spent.
tsk tsk mark, its whiteboards now !, how long is it since you were at school
if i am understanding this right
normally when three way adjustment is mentioned it is concerning for example a "coilover"
what you are saying is that your three way adjustment is solely concerning the damper
sounds very complex
but also sounds like you can have the best of both worlds
i will sit back and listen now
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This one is for Tony and any other suspension Genii.
We are developing a new road orientated suspension kit for a car (secret squirrel at the moment) using 3 way adjustable dampers.
We have seen truly amazing results on the track using this system (2 seconds per lap), and was wondering if anyone has any thoughts on this concept or has tried it?
Thanks
what about us mere mortals
when you say three way adjustable dampers, do you mean height and damping adjustable,
i am using the D2`s on the starlet, and they have an infinate amount of different adjustments, but are track orientated, which means although the can be adjusted for road use they are allways a bit stiff and therefore a bit uncomfortable for everyday road use
presuming road orientated would have a more comfortable ride, but be less suitable for track use
is it possible to have the best of both worlds !!
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the solution is clear
how the hell the solution is carried out is not clear
Air tools are the only solution.... repetitive pulses from an air gun will remove/re-fit the nut with ease.
are you giving me permission to buy some air tools
and a compressor
yahoo
ok a trip to a local garage then
janny said if bazza asks say yes..... a kind of subliminal gift mate
..... Is it your Birthday anytime now 
not mine ....but guess whos is next month
i wont tell you how old
but its the only number that is in alphabetical order (should have put that up in the conundrums)
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the solution is clear
how the hell the solution is carried out is not clear
Air tools are the only solution.... repetitive pulses from an air gun will remove/re-fit the nut with ease.
are you giving me permission to buy some air tools
and a compressor
yahoo
ok a trip to a local garage then
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it seems the top mounted nut is either not done up enough or needs a spacer under it
problem is that the central rod just spins !
i only have access to the normal home users tools
and am presuming it will need an air tool of some kind
unless anyone knows otherwise
i think this is known as the nagknockstical theory
it knocks so she nags !!
i never even fitted the things
How does the exposed threads compare to the other side?
Does the top of the shaft own a hexagonal head or a female hex?
Is the lock not a thread lock?
shock in question has about 6 threads showing
opposite has about 10 showing
is a threaded rod with a flat bit about a 1/3 of full diameter
nut is just a nut with spring washer underneath
Then i think you need a spacer/washer with a bigger internal diameter to compress the mount fully and pull the shaft to the expected length.
erm yep that was my thought
problem is how to get the nut off and obviously back on after
Try and load the coil spring by adding weight in the boot (remove the un-sprung weight) then i would pinch the top of the shaft with mole-grips and hopefully remove the nut.... For the on (no laughing) add some Fairy liquid to the shaft
it doe's wonders now tony i think you have forgotten that this is an mx5
boot space allows only a socket and one hand in at a time
i can get it out without to much difficulty
the nut is within a cup sort of thing, the only tool to fit is a socket, which obviously then covers any part of the shaft
the solution is clear
how the hell the solution is carried out is not clear
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it seems the top mounted nut is either not done up enough or needs a spacer under it
problem is that the central rod just spins !
i only have access to the normal home users tools
and am presuming it will need an air tool of some kind
unless anyone knows otherwise
i think this is known as the nagknockstical theory
it knocks so she nags !!
i never even fitted the things
How does the exposed threads compare to the other side?
Does the top of the shaft own a hexagonal head or a female hex?
Is the lock not a thread lock?
shock in question has about 6 threads showing
opposite has about 10 showing
is a threaded rod with a flat bit about a 1/3 of full diameter
nut is just a nut with spring washer underneath
Then i think you need a spacer/washer with a bigger internal diameter to compress the mount fully and pull the shaft to the expected length.
erm yep that was my thought
problem is how to get the nut off and obviously back on after
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it seems the top mounted nut is either not done up enough or needs a spacer under it
problem is that the central rod just spins !
i only have access to the normal home users tools
and am presuming it will need an air tool of some kind
unless anyone knows otherwise
i think this is known as the nagknockstical theory
it knocks so she nags !!
i never even fitted the things
How does the exposed threads compare to the other side?
Does the top of the shaft own a hexagonal head or a female hex?
Is the lock not a thread lock?
shock in question has about 6 threads showing
opposite has about 10 showing
is a threaded rod with a flat bit about a 1/3 of full diameter
nut is just a nut with spring washer underneath
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have you tried gripping the shaft with a pair of mole grips? but if you do this make sure you put something rubber there first to avoid scratching the shaft as this can damage any seals the shaft passes through.
if the knock is still there check the drop-links for play.. they are for ever going on any make of car.
i was a bit worried about doing that , in case i did any damage
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it seems the top mounted nut is either not done up enough or needs a spacer under it
problem is that the central rod just spins !
i only have access to the normal home users tools
and am presuming it will need an air tool of some kind
unless anyone knows otherwise
i think this is known as the nagknockstical theory
it knocks so she nags !!
i never even fitted the things
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saw both the s2000 and the supra
the supra certainly went with a bang
still coasted down and managed a 21 sec run, almost beat the micra
its a shame !
but you do have to accept there will be casulties
i like the way their funny car lifted the front wheels, squirmed around quite a bit, then let off the gas, must have needed a pants change !
but still managed an 8 sec run
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we all know about torque steer ......well i think so
so are there any measures to lessen the impact or improve driveability
Less throttle
My Civic Type R is pretty bad though you can drive around it. Obviously not a problem on the MR2.
Got any pictures of the driveshaft? First thoughts were a CV joint but i think that would be a bit more obvious...
its in the middle of the shaft
funnily enough it was the cv boots i was changing
is about 3" round , pretty solid rubber, and has a groove in the shaft to locate it
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Bazza, you mean to tell me that the Starlet is not quicker than my 1/4 mile time .......... ?
go on ...hit a man when hes down
most times were fairly slow
even the noble was only getting 13`s
skylines were struggling for 15`s
moist day !
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BTW, what were it's characteristics (SP?) before?
and what turbo is in your car?
hard to tell
when on the dyno at janspeed it was pretty much as standard, boosted to 0.6 (as per factory settings)
but due to free flowing decatted exhaust it then creeped to 1bar
reached 130 bhp and 121 torque
now reaches 125 bhp and 145 torque before the boost drops off
actuator is now HKS which should be set at 1bar
never really had chance to use before the latest mods so hard to tell
using toyota ct9 which are fairly well known to be able to take 1bar
am now thinking along the lines that if the actuator is set lower than 1 bar
and the initial boost level is just spiking, and then the actuator kicks in, all but at a lower than supposidly set level
anyone ?
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got a problem with my starlet turbo
runs fine up to 3500 rpm and reaches 1 bar boost
after 4000 rpm the boost just drops off and by 7000 rpm its at 0.5 bar
actuator is HKS set at 1 bar
was informed that no leaks were present
now generally they suffer with boost creep
but this seems the opposite
boost spike springs to mind, but its not boosting over what its meant to
on a dyno it reaches peak power and torque by 5000 rpm, and yet it will happlily rev to 7500 rpm
so has anyone got a clue ?
Sounds like it could be the fuel cut defender starting to cut in. Do you have the car remapped through a piggy-back ECU? Maybe needs tweaking a little.
no fuel cut !
managed by e-manage
car is mapped to 1 bar
in an attempt to solve the problem all factory solonoids were removed
actuator is simply controlled by an in-line valve
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we all know about torque steer ......well i think so
so are there any measures to lessen the impact or improve driveability
or is it something we have to learn to live with
notice on my driveshaft a circle of rubber
only on the long shaft though
i was wondering what this is ?
and what does it do ?
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'WELL' how did you guys get on!!!!!! especially since i have set both cars
well the handling was superb !!
ran as straight as an arrow
running 16`s all day due to boost problems, dissapointed as i was hoping for low 15`s and possibly 14`s
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Anyone from here want to RWYB (Run what you Brung) yesterday.
Did not see many Lexus's about but a few Starlets ripping it down the 1/4 mile.
We had a few MX5's from the MX5 Nutz.com representng us!
Good fun and a good laugh.
me me i was there
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so i am not alone
somehow thats comforting to know
i keep getting a lot of "i dont knows"
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got a problem with my starlet turbo
runs fine up to 3500 rpm and reaches 1 bar boost
after 4000 rpm the boost just drops off and by 7000 rpm its at 0.5 bar
actuator is HKS set at 1 bar
was informed that no leaks were present
now generally they suffer with boost creep
but this seems the opposite
boost spike springs to mind, but its not boosting over what its meant to
on a dyno it reaches peak power and torque by 5000 rpm, and yet it will happlily rev to 7500 rpm
so has anyone got a clue ?
Anti-roll/ Sway bar replacement
in Suspension
Posted
the IS bars were quite noticably bigger and heavier,
the starlet ones were visibly not much different, but made a fair difference, not as much as the IS but as you know with its set up, it doesnt move much in any direction
