MarkO
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Posts posted by MarkO
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Lazza and I took the Hornet to Colerne last Monday.
Short write up here on the Planet forum:
http://www.planetmx5.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5542
h
guy that sounds like a a day full of potentual problems and one i do not regret missing but i am sure i will miss the time i spent with you chaps and the hornet when i was at wim
happy days -
I have found on track that on the fronts the ouside of the shoulders will wear due to cornering at speed the tyrewalls flex and put the weight onto the outside edge of the tyre. The inside edge of the tyre on the inner of the corner does not suffer as much due to weight being transferred to the outside of the corner.
This can be improved by adding a couple of extra PSI to the tyres, in effect stiffening the tyre and not allowing the sidewall to flex as much.
Alternatively, you can use a more track based tyre which has stiffer sidewalls. The Hornet went from Toyo T1 R's, a road tyre, to Hankook RS2's (iirc) (track/road tyre) with stiffer sidewalls and greatly reduced shoulder wear! Ahopulder wear will be more of a problem at the front due to the steering presenting the tyres at at an angle to the track. (I'm thinking slip angle here is that correct!)
Wear on the rear will be down to camber/toe. More agressive settings will make the rear end feel planted at the expense of tyre wear.
Hotter areas of tyres show which part of the tyres are working hardest, and if you measure the temperature on the left, centre and right of the tread pattern across both wheels of an axle, that can tell you something about how the set up is working. (Cannot remember the details of this tho'.)
All of this is only my laymans view, so may/will be wrong!
h
as a student you have pritty much hit the nail on the head
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No, hoping the improvement effected by the Eibachs- significantly better than o/e- will be reinforced by the Konis- a reputedly smoother damper than the originals. Tyres afaik can be hoped to reduce noise and make a contribution to fine detail of ride but only in the narrow sense. I found on the peugeot that the big improvement was Eibachs and shocks but that 16" rims and T1rs - as opposed to 17"s and Falkens-further reinforce the prime changes. This is purely empirical and hit and miss stuff but I would not want to fit an extremely stiff or noisy tyre- I have heard well of GSD3s and assymetrics and it seems I may be on the right track.
Can you do gsd 3s and if so what is the price?
the gsd3 in your size is around at the moment and is £105inc vat i will need just a days notice to get stock unless the weekend gets in the way
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bump
tony is snowed under at the moment he said he will catch up with you later
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They are quite good value for money.
elitedirect.com and camskill.com both have good prices for these tyres
thanks for advertising our compeitors but you might like to try us as we can also supply this tyre
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Hi Everyone.
I've not posted on here before but I've had my LS430 tyres and alignment done and my Nissan Micra driving school car tyres, barkes and alignment done as well at WIM. It's a bit of a trek but well worth it in my opinion.
On my Micra I've noticed that the rear tyres are going to need replacing soon. There only seem to be three tyre companies who make tyres for the Micra which are Continental, Dunlop and someone else who I can't remember. The size is 175/60/15 and they seem to be about £70 quid or a bit more each which seems alot of money for a tyre for a Micra. If I go up a couple of sizes in terms of width and go to 195/60/15 then I can get Pirelli P6000 for £25 to £30 cheaper. Would this be alright to do if I replaced all four tyres at the same time and would my wheels be able to cope with the extra width of the tyre?
Sorry of this is a daft question.
Cheers,
Jim.
hello jim
we can supply the correct size in an economy brand at £55inc vat if this helps let me know and i can order them in for you
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bit seized up was it ?edit: I agree about the bonnet. I'd have thought a hardtop or rimz innit would have been more of a priority ?
Indeed.. These are a classic case where the metals are in conflict. Once you gain the slightest movement from the adjuster you can free the bushing and i haven't been beaten yet (famous last words).
no mate thats to keep the supercharger cool
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to be honest the only thing we@wim can think of are adjustable drop links like this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Truck-...p4506.m20.l1116
you can add more pre-load to existing arb
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what exactly is that
that my friend is a mobility scooter which has more to do with the doctor than me tis in need of some tlc
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the things we do in down time
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It occured to me today that most of the runflats I've ever seen have had Asymmetric tread patterns:
Dunlop Sport 01 & Goodyear Eagle somethin' or other Run On Flat
Michelin Pilot PHP ZeroPressure
Conti Premium Contact2 SSR
Bridgestone Turanza ER300 RFT
& Bridgestone Potenza (various BMW & MINI OEM fitments, forget the specfics)
The only one that isn't, that I've seen, is the Pirelli Euforia with a symmetrical pattern.
Any specfic reason or just conincidence ?
i contacted both bridgstone and conti today and both said thier is no reason other than customer demand i.e.manufactures
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Fixed a puncture on a Mazda 323 yesterday. Backed it out the tyre-bay and there's a terrible knocking noise from the rear. Chucked it on the ramp and found a knackered rear roll-bar drop link. Customer confirmed he was getting a noise and the car occasionaly felt "less stable" when changing lanes at speed. Mr Smug with my diagnostic skillz, I declared I was wasted at KF. Two minutes later the car drives back in with the fella saying the sound was worse than ever.
Back on the ramp, I noticed the clearance between wheel and lower arm-hub mounting bolt was really small, and the new wheel balance weight was all scratched and the bolt had a polished spot.........
pride comes befor a fall mate we have all done it at sometime
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the honda accord is tyre specific it should be yokohama v550 do not get me wrong im not saying you cannot fit anything else
if someone recommends somethig else go for it cos the yokos are expensive
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the machine looks good but it is often the peron using it that is the weak link
your car is only front & rear toe adjustable ( if no mods done ) so it should be run of the mill stuff
email the print out to tony@wim for us to ok it
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Hi everybody, I am looking for some help i have a 05 reg HA Tourer i am having trouble with the steering.When you let go of the steering wheel the car seems to head for the kerb when you follow the white line the car seems to move to & fro from oneside to the other, I have had it tracked by computer/laser but nothing seems to eradicate it,the tyres i Hav been told about another 3-5k miles at best left in them. As anyone else experienced anything like this with there HA i would be grateful of any advice. I have been to my local HONDA dealer today and they dont seem to have a clue what the problem is other than put a brand new set of tyres on.
PS Forgot to mention i am new to the WIM so i would just like to say hello to everybody. Cheers
welcome to wim
it may well be tyre related can you post up the size and make of tyre on the car as the accord has a tyre made just for it
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Having a strange issue with my 2001 Volvo S40 1.9D (145,000 miles)
It feels like I have sideways movement when I go over bumps. It's worst in a bend if I hit a small pothole or a patch of broken road - it feels like a bit of fishtailing.
At 60mph+, going over a bump feels as if the car is twitching to the side rather than just up and down.
And on surface water, all sorts of weirdness happens. The back end feels like it's sliding about slightly (whether it really is - I'm not sure). A bit like aquaplaning, but it happens far more easily than any other car I've driven.
It feels better if I inflate the tyres to 34psi front and 32psi rear instead of the recommended 30/29, but it by no means goes away.
The tyres are Goodyear Excellence all round, about a year old and 6mm+ tread. I actually kept these tyres from my last car (Mondeo V6) and on that car they felt absolutely fine.
I've had my suspension checked over a few times and have been told that it all looks in good condition, except:
1) My drop-links should be replaced (although they look fine to me)
2) My N/S/F strut top mount may be worn
Would either of those things cause the problems I'm having?
sorry tony is not at work for a couple of days but it sounds to me like you may have a negative toe angle at the rear
the drop links will not be the issue and the top mount would have to be so bad it would knock and bang
mark@wim
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cheeky
the car is fine all be it not your favourite manufacturer
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I know you guys don't know me but this looks like a great day out so count me in if its a Sunday meet if that's ok with you
tony if you want to go i can pick you up no probs
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Hi shaun
its now Sunday afternoon we would like to see the blog before bed time
i would like to see the beast I'm trying to find the tyres for....
How?.....
in Car Related Photos/Videos
Posted
Why would you paint a flat front tyre😁pan