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Thanks I will let you know how I get on and if it is a good long term fix or not.

The other side isn't worn but it's probably a different brand of pattern part? I suppose what I was getting at is that as the geometry report was fine when the worn part was new, then the new unworn part must be slightly different in physical size? Provided that all those previous good geometry measurements still hold (which I think they must do considering the car previously drove vry well and tyre wear was balanced) then am I right in thinking that the only thing that would need changing is the toe on the NSF? The last geo was over two years ago but like I said, the car has been SORNed most of that time and hasn't done much driving. I think I'll just try teasing the track rod into the track rod end a little at a time (effectively shortening it and thus toeing the wheel out). I'll see how the steering goes, and keep my eye on tyre wear. If all is good I'll consider it a quick, cheap fix.

Thanks for the input Tony Now to put a spanner in the works The worn top mount I removed was brand new when the last geo was done (printout above). It has worn very quickly, but it was only about £8 so I guess it was a cheap crap one. With the utmost respect, if all a technician can do is adjust the toe the same as I (albeit not blind) how would getting it on a machine again help? Is it possible that the other three wheels may now need re-adjustment to compensate for this new top mount? For the sake of another £12, maybe it would be cheaper just to buy another and replace the other side too, or would that not help?

Thanks for the reply mate Ideally I'd like another full geo too but the car has been SORNed most of the time since the last one and hasn't done much mileage at all. So do you think I need to give it a little toe out then and see what happens? I'll mark the nut and rod so if worst case scenario it gets even worse then I can revert it.

Hi new member here I originally posted this as a question on the Talkford site but Rich doesn't drop in too much now and I figured I'd get a quicker and better answer here. Original thread: http://www.talkford.com/topic/221203-front-toe-has-changed-after-replacing-top-mount/ My car is a Ford Mondeo ST24. It is running on the original 16" alloy wheels with 205/50/R16 Uniroyal Rainsport 2 tyres all round. The suspension has been changed so it's running on Eibach Pro springs all round. All shocks were changed for Bilstein/Slachs parts and are good. It has standard wishbones with good bushes and ball joints. The front droplinks are thicker ST200 style parts, and the ARBs are polybushed front and rear. Back in late 2011 I had a full geometry done at my local Ford dealer on a John Bean machine, which cost about £60. This was after changing both the front wishbones and wheel bearings. Here is the print out: The only adjustable suspension angles on this car are front and rear toe, the camber and castor are both non-adjustable without modified parts. The has been handling is excellent, especially for such heavy saloon car and I am very happy with it. However a few weeks back I noticed that the handling was becoming a bit odd when the NSF was going over bumps, I got some odd bumpsteer and it just generally didn't feel right. There was some knocking too, but I had an advisory at my last MOT for the droplink balljoints. I changed this and it cured some of the noise, it didn't change the bad handling (and I didn't expect it too). I got my pry bar in and around the NSF strut/wishbone and could find no play, however I whipped the strut top nut off and the problem was immediately visible - the second nut (which sits right on top of the top mount, and for some reason isn't a nyloc) had loosened allowing the thread part of the strut piston to move excessively. This in turn had worn the centre hole of the top mount to about twice it's normal size! This was of course allowing massive movement and would have been playing havoc with the geometry. So I ordered a new top mount and replaced it. As I guessed, the toe has been changed presumably due to different manufacturing tolerances in the top mount dimensions as well as wear. The steering wheel now needs to be held slightly to the left to go straight, but you can actually 'feel' that the handling isn't right still. So my questions are: 1) Now that the steering wheel needs to be held left, does this mean that my suspension changes have made the NSF toe in? 2) The car has not done many miles since the last geometry and I am happy the other three wheel toe settings are good. Would it be permissable for me to make small gradual adjustments to the NSF track rod until I get a centred steering wheel again? I figure once the steering is straight then the front total toe must be back to zero again (as in the geo print out)? Thanks for any help, I could do without spending another £60+ on a full alignment again if I could fix it myself quickly and cheaply