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joeB12

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Posts posted by joeB12

  1. If we could have the car here at the end of the day on Thursday the 11th, I could get started with it early Friday morning, that way you'd be able to collect it at the end of the day on Saturday if all goes well!

  2. It's not just price, doing the job the same day just isn't something we'd consider. I understand the logistics of it are an issue, it's just not a job we'd be willing to rush! Time to tailor the ride height/pre load, test drive and any other variables like seized bolts etc all adds up!

  3. Rich is right, the alignment can be adjusted perfectly, but if the technicians idea of the steering wheel being level is different from yours, then it'll still seem as if it is off. When it goes back for its re-check, I'd suggest you personally checking that the steering wheel is at the position you'd like it to be, as how he perceives dead straight may be different to how you do.
    As for the tyre wear, if I'm right with what's been said above, there shouldn't be any, the problem is purely cosmetic. The vehicle is aligned correctly, just not to the steering position!!


     

  4. The left SAI (steering axis inclination) or KPI (king pin inclination) as it's noted on your printout, is sitting quite a lot lower than the off-side. These figures can move higher or lower within reason, as long as they move together. These values haven't, which has shown through in the caster angle.

    I imagine there's a slight bend in one of the lower suspension components on the nearside, and rectifying that will bring your SAI values even, in turn, bringing your caster angles in line with one another.

    At a guess I'd say nearside front lower arm and ball joint are to blame. but there's an outside chance its the hub itself, there's a chance it's the subframe, there's even a chance the chap measuring the car knocked one of the gauges!

    Proof is in the pudding, if its something you'd want fixing, the most logical and cheapest place to start is the nearside front lower arm.

    I'd like to measure it before any of this goes ahead though, evening out the front cambers will give a more definitive reading and just incase it was a spoof measurement. Don't want to be changing parts unnecessarily,

  5. From a legal point of view, you can. However it's not advisable. Run-Flats require a specific geometry setup that differs quite a lot from the factory specification. Applying run-flat settings to one end of the car and standard to the other is a big no-no, and leaving the alignment as it is when the tyres are changed is asking for tyre wear issues. On top of all that the ride quality given from having both RFTs and standard tyres will be pants!

  6. Yeah no problem Iian. I'm sure we'll have more than enough time to check it out!

    On a side note, if anyone has a camera they'd like to bring along for some pictures for the forums I'd be very grateful!

    Fingers crossed for some good weather!

    Joe

  7. No problem, bookings are shaping up a lot like this - 

    9:00 - David (NC) Mx5 oc

    10:00 - Tony (NB) mx5 oc

    11:00 - Dave (NA) Mazda Menders

    12:00 - (NB) Mx5 nuts

    1:00 - Amy (NA) Roadster soc.

    2:00 - Oliver (NC) Mx5 nuts

     

    3:00 - Matt (NA) Roadster soc.


    I'm also taking sub-bookings for if there are any free spaces on the day

    Cheers

    Joe

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