CIH
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Posts posted by CIH
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The subframe mod is the way to go, Pete@wim did this to his S12 Nissan and it evolved an excellent adjustment range.
Yeah I used a modified lexus kit with the same principals. It worked well, porbably the only thing that did TBH.
The offset bushes would be handy too as the eccentric bolts will run out of range but that depends how much money you want to throw at the thing.
Also I would (and did) stick with a seperate coil and dampner on the rear. I don't know how a 25yr old shell would take to coil forces on an are not designed for it but the mount on the S12 suspension arm in that area was just thin stamped steel.
I know of guys that have just put a coilover in that place but it just seemed too moody to me. Plus, honestly, where's the benefit of relocating the spring ?
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It'll trigger a warning light on the dash. Horsham Developments are active on the (200)SXOC. Good guys.
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I personally wouldn't bother with roll centre adjusters or bump-steer gear. If money is tight, the tension-rods can wait also. That would really be the absolute minimum though. It's probably got knackered rear subframe and tension rod bushes.
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Front and rear toe and rear camber from OEM. They usually need aftermarket rear toe & front and rear camber adjustable arms, if they're lowered more than ~30mm, as the OEM adjusters have a small range. Similar front set-up to Skyline, rear similar to 200SX.
I'd want to see adjustable rear toe and camber arms, front camber arms and tension-rods (castor) as a minimum, if it's on coilovers.
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In the case of McStrut, it's between top mount and bottom balljoint. For double wishbone, top and bottom balljoints. Track rod isn't included in SAI specifically.
In any case, the aim is for the outer wheels of a given turn to move toward negative camber, either through steering input, bodyroll or both. This action also reduces castor and increases SAI which is where the self centre action comes-in. The inner wheels see positive camber which is undesireable, but a necessary consequence to get the negative camber when going the other way, and doesn't really do any harm for OEM use.
Racing and drifting is a different story, ofcourse.
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Ta daa! Here it is, a manky old E30 318 Touring. Gr8 4 drifting etc.
Actually it ain't too bad. A pillars look good;
Roof panel is ok, except for the sunroof itself which is jimmy-jammed and doesn't function except to leak 'n' stuff;
Om nom nom rusts eating my floorpan;
-Not pictured; 3 inches of stinky 10 year old water and insect life. They were told to make like a tree and get outta there.
Here's some dodgy wiring, in this case tail lights for the to-be-removed towbar;
T'is but a snack compaired to the stereo and alarm wiring;
-That blackbox is the Alarm Control Unit (ACU). You can see it's been hacked into the acessory socket loom, rather than the main loom, which gives me hope of getting it sorted.
A load of old junk;
Stinky smelly carpet drying in the sun;
There's a fair bit of play in the steering UJ assembly which I blame for the horrible steering and a feeling akin to bad tracking. Alignment measured okay, incidentally.
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I'm thinking Rover V8 or Chevy short block.
lol "small block" or if your down with the lingo "mouse motor"
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Peugeot turocharged that engine while Citroen & volvo built 24v versions. Much easier than fitting something totally different.
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That's awesome.
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Goodyear Dunlop are one company nowadays. Years ago they were owned by Sumitomo in Japan.
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Just go for the most PIMP fitment you can find. Who needs handling when you're looking AWESOME ?
195/50 15 tyre on a 7j 15inch wheel with a bit of dish and a slightly lower offset than stock = win
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That's cool, I bet it has an impressive turning circle!
This isn't the same car but your comment reminded me of this lol;
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I dunno looks like the original link has been replaced/is out of date
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F16 sounds IMMENSE! Was it supposed to be a race or somethin' ?
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E55EX_RACER
From the top of the rim to the arch seems between 5 and 10mm lower on the drivers side, but its obvious when you look at the car head on
Shaun
5-10mm would be within any manufacturers tolerence I've ever seen...
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Main obvious difference is the raw power, there was hardly any use of the E-brake. Also did you notice the inner wheel on full lock had zero camber.
Looked like he had to help the wheel off lock a little, especially near the end. Wonder if that means a lower castor, rather than mega static camber ?
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Longer version, gives a good view of the car too;
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Get your noggin 'round this techie blog from an Aussie drifter who's gone-in pretty deep with modifying the front suspension of his Skyline inertia-ms.com
Interesting read I think.
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Don't remember that one but I remember the car ( was it F1 ) that took off and landed in woods on a long straight.
I think you are referring to Le Mans? 1999:
IIRC that was Mark Webber driving
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It was costing too much, taking too long and too many things weren't working out as hoped/expected. Also, if I had taken it up to Santa Pod for some skiddy time and stoved it into a wall, it would have taken months to find spares like wings, wishbones etc.
I'm going to have a break from cars for a while but current thinking is to eventually get a cheap BMW like an E30/E36 318/318is. I don't like Beemers so I won't get too attached to it and it'll be easy to get parts for. Also, they're cheap to buy and insure.
Thank You!
in General Problems / Discussions
Posted
I was going to say I don't use the word "screwed" !