Mat
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Posts posted by Mat
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going off what my old rover race car had ...neutral rear set up, onb the front neg camber and slight toe in
i cant remember the actual settings, as it was a fair few years ago...also my settings were a little more due to the fact it was a track only car,
as for anti roll bars they were std roversport items.
intrestingly though, all the roversport suspension parts are usable on the Honda, as all the rover 200s/honda Civic/accord circa 1990-95 shared the same floorpans/suspension etc etc
i will however try and dig out the different settings i used
Please do!
One area that frustrates me is when people 'overlap' someone else's Geometry set-up.... From your race experience how difficult was it to finalise the handling if at all.
the set ups changed depending on the track and conditions.....
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but surely a rigid frame makes all geometery settings more stable, albeit the suspension components are under greater load, but given that the frame doesnt twist around its axis 3 dimensionally the suspension will act exactly the same under every different condition once the varibles are dialled into the suspension..
i know that after the braces were fitted to the Blue drift car, the shell seam welded, the roll cage fitted, and the car corner weighted, and the geometery set up, that the car was predictable time and time again
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going off what my old rover race car had ...neutral rear set up, onb the front neg camber and slight toe in
i cant remember the actual settings, as it was a fair few years ago...also my settings were a little more due to the fact it was a track only car,
as for anti roll bars they were std roversport items.
intrestingly though, all the roversport suspension parts are usable on the Honda, as all the rover 200s/honda Civic/accord circa 1990-95 shared the same floorpans/suspension etc etc
i will however try and dig out the different settings i used
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Sizes required: 225/40-18....255/35-18....or ...215/40-17....235/40-17...and 245/40-17
225,235,245 - 18 are all usable as the smaller tyres will still fit the 9.5 j rim....with a bit of bead blasting
same with the 17s really, 215,225,235,245...and i could even fit 255 as ive just picked up some supra rims aswell
just purchased x10 18 tyres ranging from 225/40/18(x2) 235/40/18(x2) to 255/35/18(x4) for £360
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However, I suspect that the reincarnation of the Monster in the form a Drift Racer could well justify the installation of solid aluminium diff mounts.
which, is all in hand, i have a semi prepared subframe, with said solid aluminum diff mounts
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Mat how you have concluded this? i assume it's by driven example
by feel
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as i said the car still requires a level of grip even during drift angles, no grip, no control.
the tyre aspect ratio, should be a trade and compliment the level of power, low powered cars will not have as much grip, high powered cars need more grip
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poly bushes do deteriate, at a greater rate than good quality rubber bushes.
hence why TRD use a rubber compound compared to poly bushes which is the general norm for aftermarket suppliers
there are several "Racer" tricks that can be adopted to "enhance" certain std rubber bushes on a cars suspenson
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i just put my foot down and turn in, the steer the other way to keep the car sideways.. i have to do it in the wet though through lack of power. sometimes it changes up a gear (automatic) and then the slide comes to a sudden stop when the tyres grip!!
thats power over, drift is continues sideways slide...a fishtail doesnt constitute a drift
a good vid here showing Drift, and the driver imputs....(jane myay like one of the cars me thinks)
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depends in what context of the set up of a panhard rod
but it should be measured, before and after, and done with no weight on the rear wheels
i found a pretty good write up here
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from some development cars ive seen last year there still is a column, for safety, as with the Lexus, which has drive by wire throttle, theres still an accelerator cable
wire throttle + accelerator cable........ Tiss the same thing. not really, the cable is, just that a sleaved cable , the fly by wire throttle uses a varible resistance sensor on the throttle pedal or throttlebody(is200) and converts this signal for the ecu which then tells the throttle stepper motor what and how much to turn, if the system fails the mechanical cable still acts, on the throttle but the engine will only run in limp mode
a similer fall back is used in steer by wire systems, there will always be a mechanical fall back
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good to see someone else likes to take tinkering serious, as opposed to buying of the shelf stuff
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from some development cars ive seen last year there still is a column, for safety, as with the Lexus, which has drive by wire throttle, theres still an accelerator cable
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well another place i have used in the past till they started supplying crap
i paid £5 for the tyre, id be happy to pay £10 per tyre, and then dispose of the used tyres myself
however in the situation that i now find myself in that i WILL be competeing having just obtained my Drift license...i can offer far more in Advertising
What sizes and type of tyres do you need Mat...
i will Pm you Tony
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well another place i have used in the past till they started supplying crap
i paid £5 for the tyre, id be happy to pay £10 per tyre, and then dispose of the used tyres myself
however in the situation that i now find myself in that i WILL be competeing having just obtained my Drift license...i can offer far more in Advertising
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indeed and we have discussed it before tony.....is it still a goer
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The Apexi's have a maximum travel of around 90mm.
With the car jacked up the weight of the wheel should fully extend the damper, I measured the distance between the top of the damper cylinder and the bump stop, that equalled 90mm.
that is correct, however the car is knocking under compression so the open length is irelevent
The Apexi's have no maximum or minimum height for the coils, the bottom mount can be anywhere you want. The bottom mount is a ring that can be screwed from one end of the damper cylinder to the other.exactly the same as the TTE/HKS/TRD coils and pretty much every other coilover (hence coil-over), there has to be a minimum height and a maximum height, in the specifications, im not on about physical adjustment, the parameters set by the manufacturer
Put both of the above together you could easily position the piston such that there is insufficient travel in either direction, given that you only have 90mm to play with.im not disputing, the play, im saying if set up within the specified open/closed length then there should be no piston contact
The Apexi's bottom mount is effectively a threaded cylinder that screws onto the damper body, using this you can change the length of the entire damper cylinder and hence alter the ride height. Coilovers that don't have this must rely on the height of the spring and will be designed with longer travel to enable height adjustment.to me it sounds more of a case that a generic cylinder is being used with a generic piston and rod, the only specifics are the physical mounting points, a well designed coilover will allow for enough piston travel at full closed length
IMHO the setting of the spring height is critical on the Apexi's where as it is not on other coilovers.it seems so, which is a shame, a coilover should allow full use of its available designed travel without interferance from ill correctly matched piston, or damping valves
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205/50/17
it will make your speedo 0.2% faster
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no even on coilovers, the stroke of the piston will be within the area covered by the maximum and minimum height of the coils, if you raise, or lower the car outside of the agreed parameters of course your going to run into problems, but i would still be supprised to see there being contact, i had 50mm shorter springs fitted to the TTE dampers, and they still do not knock, as the piston is still operating within its maximum travel on the compression stroke
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the knock would not be the piston making contact, if this was the case then the stroke of the damper has been critically designed,badly!! the knock usually comes from the spherical top mounts if fitted, moreso the problem can be caused by piston movement inside the damper body
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depending on car, the rear brake valve is affected by bed height, some models this can be adjusted, such as VW's
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the system is bleed by turning from lock to lock untill the required level is shown on the pot
fluid change is done by draining the system, the pump shouldnt be used to empty the system as power steering pumps overheat very quickly if not lubricated by oil
Lowriders
in Suspension
Posted
Adie, Mark had my geo set while the monster was in...not had any issues, maybe worth asking Mark if he can get yours done