Mat
-
Posts
745 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Gallery
Posts posted by Mat
-
-
was a great weekend indeed, bloody hot though
-
its Holland
-
will be seeing this car in about 8 hours time......
-
try a run with the front bar disconnected.....
-
what has HP got to do with it, its torque that turns the wheels
-
40
-
cos there women....and stupid
-
ive seen some that were fine, lasted forever, others ive seen, dislodge and were bordering on dodgy
i ran a car with them on the rear for a few years, with no problems what so ever
-
some very good pics indeed, shame i missed this year...."alas spanners in the works"
hopefully next year....
-
forgot to add those scores are from the top 30 scores recorded, there are over 45 cars running in BDC pro
when i get back, i hope to go and see Jon.
he has the car though to the end of the year
-
Right off, or Track dedicated car....
-
5th in pro out of the final top 16 then top 8 cars, which is not bad at all, in a single event.
overall position having just looked on the BDC site is 17th out of 30 drivers, which again is not bad
jon has not been able to do every event due to event clashes between BDC and JDM, and other financial issues, his wedding etc etc
but im not sure what the format is for JDM allstars
to be honest, ive had little to do with Jons season, kinda preoccupied with other things....but for a season where he hasnt managed every event, and driving someone elses car, hes done better than other that did every event, with there own car!!
-
could have been alot worse....glad its not as bad as it may have been
-
i was using the car as an example of the same chassis two different power outputs, therefore 2 different settings with ARB's
the same argument i stick to for track cars
-
Personally i would only be interested in tuning the front bars.... In a few cases like the 5 i would remove the rear bar and throw it away.
really...
quite the opposite id say, on a rear wheel drive car you need to give the rear some control, by removing the rear completely and relying on the front only, you would increase understeer.
a soft or OEM front bar, and harder than OEM rear will increase oversteer, you need to find the balance hence the use of the bars correct for the application.
for example, on my original blue car, due to the lack of outright power, i removed the front bar, and fitted a 215% rear bar, this gave me the controlled oversteer i needed
on the white car, i had to increase the front bar, but decrease the rear bar, as it had a natural tendency to oversteer, i had to dial back in some control
-
the rear would benefit more from an adjustable bar, and generally, manufacturers if offering adjustable bars, offer them only for the rear.
only a few offer adjustable fronts as well
which bar you use and in which application, to either increase or decrease under, or oversteer, depends on many factors.
some of which include
is the car front/rear wheel drive
and most importantly, what is the car used for!!
-
bump on both wheels at the same time, ....i see what your saying, but under equal 0 load, there is nothing acting upon the bar, other than to move it in its static mount on the chassis, therefore..... there is no requirement for the roll bar to act, its function is to reduce body roll only, which of course you know
hence why its is static on the chassis, but linked to each suspension
the adjustment is determined by the manufacture of the bars....you would hope with some degree of testing
some are set so it is +% of stiffness on each setting, or as with some bars, a -% std setting and a +% setting.
tas stated the amount, is determined by the manufacturer of the bars
for example the settings for some of the multi setting bars on the is200/300 are as follows
Hotchkis
32mm Front Hollow 2 way adjustable +56%, +61%
19mm Rear Hollow 2 way adjustable +144%, +227%
Largus
Front 35.1mm - 140% Stiffer
Rear 27.5mm - 220% Stiffer
the Do-LUCK and TTE bars are 3 setting adjustable but dont have my paperwork to hand to say what the settings are
the plus settings are % over the standard resistance OEM bars
-
its not floating though is it.
its fixed to the chassis, and each moving side of the suspension, the adjustability is the ability to increase or decrease the bars resistance to twisting, its torsional resistance
-
adjustable means as in the rate of torsional twist.
take for example some rear anti roll bars have several holes where the drop link can be mounted, the closer to the bar stiffens the torsional effort, and further away reduces it
-
like it alot....very crisp, very clear, super....love it
-
WoW thats a great piece of work...not a Lexus alloy wheel was it..?
Lexus are 5 stud wheels
-
looks like the exhaust has recently been done as well, yet whoever did that failed to notice the Exxon Valdez situation on the suspension
-
which thread lock are you using, there are different strengths of Loctite
-
actuually the white TRD model is the one im wanting...lol, ugly or not, it is a work truck you can depend on
nightmare geo on my old IS200
in Geometry
Posted
is it possible the adjuster bolt has seized into the bush, i had this on the GS, and also had a pain to get any movement on the adjusters