discount tyres dan
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Posts posted by discount tyres dan
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i have seen this problem too, usualy on fords
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are they well over presure?
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the way i do these is to take the bolt out that goes right through the foward lower engine mount, then remove the 2 nearside subframe bolts, slacken the 2 ofside bolts then you can pull down on the subframe enough to slide the bolts out and in again, refitting it the reverse of stripping except you need a subframe alignment tool to makesure the subframe goes back as ford intended then sugest a full geom to the customer
also i have noticed on some mondeos that i the bolt is in upside down then the tip of the bolt rubs on the gearbox.. that cant be healthy either
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yeah no probs.. i'll keep an eye on tyre wear and milage and report back!
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the highest milage one we have done so far is about 5000 so kind of hard to tell yet, seem ok so far though, should hope so too for nearly £250 per front tyre
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oh poo.
i'll let you have that sitting there for a while then i'll kick some bottom!!
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bet ya cant get the tetris trophey
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ok like tony i dont go much on cats so its out with it!!
i have made a front pipe that acts as a de-cat pipe but i can pull the de-cat out and put a cat in whenever i want, cat cost £80, de-cat cost £20 and i got £35 back on my old cat from the 'cat man' car is off to top gear monday for a stainless steel middle and rear and amg style tail pipe
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have you checked the lower arms on the front of the car? at the point where they bolt into the sub-frame there are 2 bushes, these have a tendency to work them selves out of the arm itself causing a floaty feeling in the steering as the front wheels 'move about' you may need the car on a ramp to check properly.
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simply that the car isnt within the factory spec, printouts were coming out saying the car wasnt spot on, now they are.
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i havw no idea why they are changing the ends but i couldnt get the camber positive enough
Camber or Castor?
my bad.. i meant castor all along
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i havw no idea why they are changing the ends but i couldnt get the camber positive enough
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i have set geoms on a few of the these now as they have been re-called to have new track rod ends fitted, basicly we are donig them for our local dealer because they dont have the equipment, anyway on the first 5 or 6 everything started off fine (albeit fiddly) rear camber, rear toe, thrust line, until i got to the front, there just wasnt enough adjustment to bing the caster in, always remained about 20' out of spec.
at the end of last month we got the latest update for our hunter machine and the specs on the font caster have changed
and the tollerence increased, what im thinking is in a few thousand miles are these cars going to be killing tyres as landrover hasnt cured the problem just hidden it for now. -
a friend of mine had a granada herse with a flame kit, it didnt work propperly but the flames were huge, i remember someone lighting a fag from it!
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imports start life as km/h, you tell by the speedo, it goes right up to 180, cars in japan are limited to 180 kmh whitch is about 112 mph, the importers normaly remove the limiter and convert the drive in the gearbox to make the dial read in mph, they then either replace the sticker on the dial to one that reads m/ph or simply remove the k so it says m/h
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i wonder if thats because orriginaly it was set up to be in km/h ?
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Yes Honda have also revised the spec for the rear camber too, i think before they changed the upper arms.
so when set up on the geom machine the car seems ok by the readings. then when they brought the new arms into play they had to re-revise the settings,
Also (unrelated) Honda speedo/mileage gauges apparently are 10% inaccurate on purpus, so after driving 10,000 miles the car has only really covered approx 9,000. this is to give the fuel economy reading 10% higher too (i have a friend or 2 at Honda dealers)
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go bazza!!
another step on the route to world dominantion!
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i'll have another look tomorow as they are at work.. i'll let you know.. they not exactly pretty though.. i know they arn't bbs they look similar to tsw stealth.
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hello, i have been given a set of 14" five spoke alloy rims for a mazda mx-5, they are a bit tatty and come without tyres on them but if someone wants them they are free to come and take them away
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bored at the lights one day in stanmore..
there realy was nothing else to do
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ok change of plan..
im now going to buy a performance cat and fabricate the pipework myself as i have found an elbow shaped link that is almost new, i just have to cut my old front pipe, weld in the elbow and extend it, weld in the cat and connect it to the rest of the system,
top gear cat price = £300 fitted
dan price, cat = £100 fitted
bargain!
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another fun one is in a xantia.. when you are sitting at lights put the handbrake on so the front wheels cant move.. then pump the brake pedel realy hard and fast for about 30 seconds.. when you stop pumping the back end will shoot up to max height until it settles again on its own
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and how is the lex rear box?
i have seen the tail pipe i want, it is a twin oval outwardly rolled tail pipe and fits snuggly into the bumper cut-out, nothing flash but as close to amg style as you can get
DIY Brakes
in General Problems / Discussions
Posted
i just noticed something else..
is there a problem with the hub nut in the lower picture.. it seems to have the outer cover missing, the top one looks new and so do both lower arms..