Vipercar93
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Posts posted by Vipercar93
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Jeez what are you doing, living out of it?
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Bloody hell that's one hell of a build error
Still it reads like you know how to correct the problem, shame though for such a nice car.Well I don't know if I corrected it, I hope I did! I use a different oil and replaced the blocking rings with a carbon lined unit. There is still play in the gear assembly, but didn't have the time/money to get/build shims.
You mean 'rice' car?
It's nice, but built on the cheap, these problems are because of that. They cut corners where they could/wanted. Luckily they didn't skimp on the engine! Put it this way with the geometry setup they put on the car my turning radius is nearly 45ft! They compromised turning radius for the ability to fit wider tyres.
Not bad though considering when I bought the car it cost around £11k new...
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Lyla watched it 3 times, would have kept watching it, if I didn't have to goto work
Beautiful!
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Wooooo
'Movin on up!' -
All depends what you want. If you are happy with what you have then yes they can be expensive
That's comparing apples to oranges. Not many people have the ability, nor the desire, to store a barrel of oil in their garage. Opie's prices are very competitive, for what they sell. Much lower than halfords usually and still cheaper than my local autospares.
That being said where do you buy your oil from?
I have looked for barrels in the past here in the UK, but never came up with a site that I could buy from in the oil brand/weight that I wanted. We used to get 500 gallons of 10-40 and other 500 gallons of hydraulic fluid when I lived on the farm. -
Not done much then
...... Anyone would think you owned a Lotus 
Haha Lotus would be much much for fun! But so much much less practical. Least this way I can haul the family around too and goto the shops with reasonable ease.
Welcome back viper, wondered where you had gone
Sounds like you have done a lot of work on the car. Do they suffer with gearbox problems then?
Been busy
Thanks Yes it's a pretty common problem. I think it's a mix of poor part matching, the gears should really be shimmed into place to get rid of play. The other problem is a de-lamination and premature wear problem on the blocking ring friction material. The friction modifier that Dodge called to use supposedly attacked the material.
Once the material was gone/worn the syncro's ground off. Excessive pressure was then needed to get into gear and loaded up the shift fork gate which is only brass against billet steel selector tab on the shift linkage. This wore the gate down and caused even more problems. To the point where it wouldn't engage all the way sometimes and pop out of gear. Meh....
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thing is. I dont really have any negative things to say about opie.. their products are good and customer service is great.. just the price of some of their oils is crazy. 0w-30 for the accord is silly price
That's negative to me
Let them know they are expensive. Other than not buying from them
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I always found them to be the cheapest, for the quality of oil I want.
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Not been on in a looong while, thought I would give an update...
Over the summer I replaced...
3rd gear
4th gear
Blocking rings on 3/4 and 5/R
Syncro springs (went stiffer)
3/4 shift fork
ACT 6 puck Clutch disk
Drive Shaft Shop (DSS) CV axles (rated ~600hp)
Rear Callipers
CV axle seals
Front wheel bearings
+other little transmission bits IE bearings/snap rings
Driving a bit more respectable now, don't want to repair this transmission again anytime soon....
Job next summer... Rebuild the wilwood front brake callipers. They have been on the car 6 years and are getting a bit stiff. Need to adjust the sub-frame at some point and replace the passenger knuckle. The strut mount was bent and twisted a little. The camber plates allow me to run static equal camber, but would hate to see how it changes when moving though :eeek: No plans to hit the track next year and the car drives 'ok' so it will have to wait.
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Don't forget your discount at Opie Oils for being a member
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Really enjoyed that, thanks!
Riding like that on a real road takes some real balls or complete stupidity. -
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I've just bought a used MAF off a low mileage MR2 so will see what happens when I swap that over. Why would the engineers put extreme min/max temperatures in the ECU though when the car would never be exposed to those kind of temps?
If my MAF is dodgy then no I wouldn't sell it without mentioning that, I'm not into the habit of ripping people off!
They could have extreme temps because some MAF's must be heated up with a built in heater before they operate correctly. During the heating process they could give for some pretty funky readings.
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I'd buy new , a Skyline one was £280
That's ok if you have the money and planning on keeping the car!
its possible that the wiring is loose , check the connections with a multimeter but its more likely to be the maf itself , possibly just a dry joint inside
Dont forget you can always sell the old one
How would I check the connections with a multimeter?
Sell it if it's dodgy?
TBH Essex to save time, and money, I would just replace the AIT sensor. A multimeter cannot really tell you if it's bad, unless it's really bad, but at this point the ECU should pick it up and throw a code. To see if the connection is loose you would need to datalog the sensor during driving. The min/max readings are a red herring to a potential problem, but it's within the allowable limits the engineers put into the ECU programming so these readings can't be that bad. It could be as simple as you have a sensor that is heated so these readings are during the time it was warming up and could be ignored. Need to check into a bit more, what readings do other people get?
Find out exactly which sensor you need to replace by checking your service manual (AIT is usually in the air box or in the pipework BEFORE the turbo). In turbocharged cars they sometimes run another AIT temp sensor in the intake as well which is a different sensor than the MAF. It depends on how the engineers set up the ECU tuning as to what sensors are used, or not used. Sometimes they opt for measuring with a MAP/TIP instead of a MAF. Both use calculations to work out air density.
MAF's can measure AIT if placed in the air box, but it's an 'expensive' option for them when all you need is a simple 'thermometer'. Depends how the engineer was feeling on the day. A proper AIT sensor is usually cheaper, but it's another part to control during the build process which adds complexity during production.
You better not be putting dodgy parts up for sale! That's abuse of the trust the buyer gives a seller. Unless of course you tell them
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Oops, everyone ok?
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define soon
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Presumably they can tip, I'd be wanting to wear coverings on my arms and legs
Looks good fun Wear something thats for sure! I would have a go, looks like fun
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Haha brilliant! Would give someone a heart attack! LOL
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Some of the older cars rely on an adjustable blade that adjusts the amount of cool air against the hot air from the matrix. This means the matrix is always hot and coolant is always passing through it, it's down to the adjustment blade to decide how much hot air you want.
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Not a bad deal! I have been wanting a dremel for ages, got an exhaust manifold I have grand ideas of porting
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That will make anyone try to get 20/20 vision =)
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Vipercar93's Project SRT-4 ACR
in Car Blogs
Posted
Thanks!
Yep
Driving normally it's never an issue, it's just parking! I can live with that for the fun I have every day 
This is how I managed it. The SRT forums gave me the help I needed to get the job done
Not sure if I could do the work I do otherwise 
@Rich I agree there! It's a pain working on my DD. I took a week off work to rebuild the transmission. I didn't need the whole week, but it gave me the time needed to take my time. It's the forward planning bit. Luckily Opie Oils now stocks my oil filter so I don't have to get oil/transmission fluid from the USA, but everything else.... 1/2 the parts I had sat on 6 months before I actually tore apart the transmission.