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Kozy

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Posts posted by Kozy

  1. This particular piece is relatively straightfoward, there's not much need to water it down at all really.

     

    People on Pistonheads seem to like it, got lots of people comparing their engines now, interesting to see the highest and lowest values coming in, and how some supposedly very good production engines actually appear to be very middle ground.

  2. Thanks for the kind words Tony.

     

    Really I am only just scratching the surface of this subject myself. The amount I do not know is simply staggering, but I will be using the website to log my learning process and maybe tag a few people along in the process. :)

     

    I've just been having a look at something by someone with a good 20 years experience on me:

     

    http://www.dynatune-xl.com/uploads/1/2/6/7/12673370/dynatune_7.0.pdf

     

    Just... wow. I can't even begin to comprehend the amount of science involved there!

  3. Yes that makes sense, something I'll have to make do with I guess.

     

    I'll try and make it as accessible as possible but it's never going to be simple. The website is predominantly about the maths involved with vehicle dynamics so if people have an aversion to numbers and algebra then it's going to be a bit of a turn off!

  4. AP are nothing to do with AP Racing, however I have seen the coilovers being sold in AP Racing boxes so BEWARE.

     

    I contacted AP Racing about this and they confirmed they have nothing to do with suspension components.

     

    AP are, as far as I can tell, just another Rokkor/Raceland/Jamex/VMaxx rebrand. Cheap s***e IOW.

  5. The MX5 data was published on the Fatcatmotorsports tech pages. Should be pretty accurate, that guy knows his onions.

     

    DC2 info was found from various threads on the Honda Tech Autocross forum. These figures probably aren't quite as accurate, but should still be pretty close. The front ARB is mostly a guess on that one as it's a horrid shape.

     

    If anyone has better info, or has enough data to warrant creating a page for another car then I'm happy to update.

  6. Thought I'd post this here, for use/discussion/constructive criticism etc.

     

    It's a suspension dynamics calculator, which calculates roll angles and load transfers, allowing you to see how changes to the vehicle set up affect them. The 'magic number' is the Front Lateral Load Transfer Distribution (FLLTD) which is the portion of the total load transfer that is taken by the front axle. Since we know that tyre load sensitivity dictates that a load differential across an axle pair results in a reduction in the total lateral tractive force of that axle pair, we can take this number as an indication of a cars tendency to understeer, with a higher percentage meaning more understeer.

     

    http://blackartracing.zxq.net/Load%20Transfer%202.php

     

    There are DC2 and MX5 versions in the sidebar. 

     

    It won't work on Internet Explorer, some mobile devices may not render it correctly and if you have an over zealous AV program installed it might accuse it of being a spam site. I assure you it is not, I wrote it myself and all it is is some HTML, PHP and JavaScript.

     

     

  7.  

     

    What numbers do you have for the camber?

    It's not going on a machine until beginning of next month but when I bought it I was told it had a Flyin' Miata alignment on it, which I believe is -1°/-1.5°. I was hoping to get a little more up front, maybe 1.5 to 1.8° for some extra front end grip and to reduce the wear. The tyres were brand new Uniroyal RainExpert 185/60/14 and after two events there the tread has been totally scrubbed off the shoulder.

     

    I was running some odd pressures recommended by the previous owner, about 35psi rear and 25psi front, to get the car nice and loose. I think the low pressure is what is causing the tyre to fold over, however I'm wary of adding more pressure as it tends to increase understeer

     

     

     

    I'm surprised you are getting heavy outer edge tyre wear doing autotests - surely the rears are wearing level and you shouldn't be getting too much on the front unless you are getting chronic understeer for some reason.

     

    I would have thought that running the pressures too low would have more of an effect than too little camber.

    If you want the car to have better turn in then set the rear to give a tad toe-out. That'll make the thing spin like a top but also be very dodgy on the road.

     

    The rears are certainly wearing more evenly, but still showing signs of accelerated shoulder wear even with high pressures.

     

    It's undoubtedly the low front pressure which is causing the fronts to wear faster, but as I said, I'd rather counter it with more camber than more pressure. One can never have enough front end grip!

  8. The basic model might be, but the new SRVs are apparently designed and built by Nitron in the UK and retail at between £1300 and £1500. Not sure they're the same thing at all... Should certainly hope not at that price anyway!

     

    Interested in your claim that the basic models are rebranded BCs though. I always suspected they might be, (to be honest most coilover systems in the £700 price bracket are), but the MR rep never gives up much info on that side of things. You know this to be fact?

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