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nobbie

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Posts posted by nobbie

  1. These are the settings we've gone for, on a Mk4 Astra Gsi, Spax Adj Gas Dampers, and Eibach Sportline Kit, Lowered -45-50mm Front, and -35mm Rear.

     

                   Left Front  Right Front

     

    Camber -1 15'           -1 13'

    Caster    3 45'            3 48'

    Toe        0                  0

     

                   Left Rear  Right Rear

     

    Camber -1 37'           -1 37'

    Toe        20'                 15'

     

    Fingers crossed, and we'll see how we go.

     

    Thanks again Tony.

  2. My rear settings are(from a Hunter Hawkeye);

    Camber -1 38' on the left, and -1 43' on the right.

    Toe 18' on the left, and 20' on the right

     

    Current front settings are;

    Camber -50' on the left, and -1 45' on the right.

    Caster 3 50' on the left, and 3 57' on the right

    Toe 0 both left and right.

     

    I have installed camber bolts now on the front, as the fronts can't be adjusted without, so back to get a re-set on sat/sun, but wanted to make sure they were working to the best settings they had. I was thinking that a -1/-1 20' on the front would be a good compromise, but maybe not.

  3. So theoretically, if the rear camber is circa -1 40', so to push corner out, the front would need -2 70' to push corner in -2 10'. Middle ground being -2 40'.

    Seems an a lot of neg on the front.

     

    These settings say the rear is spot on range, the front looks like it's looking for -45'.

     

    But that's standard range, which this isn't.

     

    Would it be feasible to run as matching camber front & rear?

  4. Hi Tony/guys,

     

    It been a while since I've been in, hope everything in WIM land is still good. Is that Vmax still in the corner of the workshop?:)

     

    I've just changed the shocks on my mk4(g) Astra Gsi, to spax, along with Eibach Pro Lowering springs.

    I've put the car on a new hunter hawkeye system, and they have 3 setting to match to, standard, sport and rough(I think). The car is now lowered, so decided on using the std settings, but not weighting the car.

    The camber was still out, so have installed the camber bolts now, and will be getting it tweaked again.

     

    I wondered whether that was the right setting. What are the differences between them?

     

    Thanks

  5. Hi All,

     

    Long time no speak, but i've not really got any cars worthy of a decent geo.

     

    My director had damaged her tyre.

    It looks like the rim protector, but i'm not sure how thick said rim protector is. I'll try and get a photo up in a minute, but it's a pretty large gouge.

    It's a Dunlop sp sport max.

     

    The choice is a new tyre, or no new tyre and a risk of blow out?

     

    It's only about 6 months old, and they're quite expensive.

  6. My options seem to be;

     

    Gaz

    KW

    Supersport

    Spax

    compbrake - for them to sleve my own legs

    I think leda do them too.

     

    Wouldn't it be great if there was a rear, slimline coilover to fit in a std shock space!!.

     

    I'm thinking i should be able to adjust the front enough to maybe not need the rears on coilover.

     

    I want to be able to drop the front right down, leaving the arse in the air for a decent weighty foot print on the strip. If i can also then stiffen the rear right up so it's almost locked out it should help getting the power down.

  7. Are WIM still Gaz dealers/fitters???

     

    If so are they're any decent details of prices, adjustment, and fitting anywhere??

     

    Ideally i was looking for full coilovers, both front and rear, but on this car it seems that i'd have to 'turret' the rear end to accomidate them. All the coilover kits i can see are fully adjustable front, and fixed height rear.

     

    I'm also looking for some eccentric top mounts that are actually built to fit properly, rather than the flat ones i've seen at other places. A company called http://www.k-mac.com.au, look about the best setup.

     

     

    It's for an Astra F, Mk3, Gsi.

     

    Any suggestions or ideas?

  8. Image105.jpg

     

     

    This is what happens when someone ignores a wheel bearing when they're selling a car.

     

    They then undo the hubnut, and tighten it to FT!!

     

    The broken down wheel bearing then rattles about on the stub axel, and makes a squeaking noise on the other bearing as the knackered one loads it up.

     

    The result is creeping geo, and eventually a droning, and then a lot of fun pressing bearings and trying to find used Scooby hubs!.

     

    I now need to get back to tony's for another geo as it's going to be rubbish!!

  9. Sounds like mine when i first went to Tony.

     

    The stock settings seem to make the scooby under-steer then over-steer, rather than doing just one consistently.

     

    My 1 5 degree's all round sorted it out, then i remembered my wheel bearings needed doing, so i'll be back soo to have them re-adjusted..

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