TarkMalbot
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Posts posted by TarkMalbot
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My gea changes were spot on. I think what let me down was being nervous and flustered on the line as it was my first time. I think my technique was wrong too as I had my clutch fully disengaged. If I was to do it again I would have it on the bite point and hold the car on the hand brake so as soon as the lights changed I could just let off the hand break and be off rather than having to get to the bite point first. Never mind.
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I think it was me who was the problem today not the tyre pressures! My reaction time varied massively, my wheel spin, gear changes etc etc was different every time. With half hour queue between each run my coolant temp and intake temp was pretty high. I did 4 runs in total and other than my reaction time, my last run felt like it went pretty well. No wheel spin, no rev limiter, my fastest 60 foot time, fastest 1/4 time and terminal speed. And to my surprise I have just checked all the cars in the RWD Jap Class and I was 4th Overall only beaten by 3 Nissan 200SX. I managed to see off the Supra, RX7, RX8, Skyline, MR2, LS200 and a J2x90 MkII (whatever one of those is)
1/4 Mile Time: 14.258 sec
Reaction Time: 0.972 sec
60 Foot Time: 2.176 sec
Maz Speed: 97.6 mph mph
Left Lane
No prizes for guessing who won here:
His was:
1/4 Mile Time: 12.096 sec sec
Reaction Time: 0.333 sec
60 Foot Time: 1.873 sec
Max Speed: 120.6 mph mph
Right lane
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That car is no more. The photographer for the Jap performance mag wrote it off!
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A few guys in the US said similar. 22 in the back and 40 in the front.
Thanks for the help.
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I am looking at doing some 1/4 mile drag races and was wondering what I needed to do to set my car up for it.
I am using the MX-5 so RWD, I have 250bhp and 235/40/17 Toyo TR-1 tyres. Should I reduce the tyre pressures? And if so by how much? I am currently running 30 PSI. I guess I can try a few different things regarding the traction control and stability control and see what gives me the best times but unsure of tyre pressures.
Thanks.
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Make the car feel Crashy? And High maintenance? Don't think I will bother! lol
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I ave come accros these:
http://www.powerflex.co.uk/products/MX5+MK...+on-2621/1.html
Are they worth the money? Do they make much of a difference? Are they difficult to fit? Will the cars geometry need setting up again?
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I wonder if I can call Steve myself and see if he can try and get it into my head how these are meant to work. lol.
A nice set of boots to keep the rose joints clean would be cool too. I might see what I can do with some electrical gland shrouds from work. lol
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Well I have fitted the adjustable drop links on my car. I tried best I could to line everything up so that the pin is horizontal but as the original links are staggered and the new ones straight they ended up looking like this on the rear:
Hopefully someone can explain the use of adjusting the length but the next photo shows that adjusting the length would only rotate the bar in the bushing:
I have tried to make it so that bar is parallel to the mounting face across the back of the car. I haven't tested the car in anger yet so I can not say if there is any noticeable difference in how the anti roll bar reacts.
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I am now getting an engine fault light saying fuel system too lean off idle. Hmmm.. Looks like another trip back to Powerstation!
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UKs most powerful MX-5 NC and no-one is even interested any more. lol
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I am still trying to work out the need for them to be adjustable as lifting the bar up or down does nothing to add or reduce torsion to the ARB as it just rotates the bar in the bushings. Unless you adjust one side and not the other but why would you want to do this?
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Oh just an Update I got the MY06 RSV plate for the bike. lol. I was looking at MY08 CBR for the other bike too but its way too expensive!
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A little more mapping and a little more power.
The car can produce 260 bhp under yesterdays conditions:
The ignition timing is on the limit though so the ECU was often stepping in to retard it to avoid pre detonation. The timing was reduced until the ECU didn't need to step in. It lost some torque but at least it has a safety factor. With some safety factor with the fuelling so it didn't run lean we also lost a few bhp but it is still a 250bhp car.
There was 2 people in the car on this run which added to the wheel drag but the calculations should still be correct for the engine power.
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And do you have a suggested difference in link lengths as a base setting?
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mx5parts have the same brace as me on their show car with the Cosworth fitted and have the same issue. They have an engineering company looking into making some spacers up to lift the brace slightly. I will let them do the development work and then hopefully have them supply me with the same spacers.
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I just swapped the big red one for the little black one.
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Just thought I would keep you up to date of what has been going on.
Here is a little video I made yesterday whilst I had the front bumper off. Just thought I would do a tour of the engine bay to let you see what was going on in there:
Also a few new photos. I have put the original brace on too until I know what I am going to do with the bypass valve pipe. Its still not great even with the standard brace but a longer hose would sort that no problem:
Here is a photo of the heat exchanger, piping and Bosch water pump (also eye spy a Nautilus horn too):
Cosworth are close to finishing off the mapping for their car. It is finished but they are doing some high speed testing in Germany to ensure the CAT isn't damaged by the heat etc etc. Then they will officially release the kit and I will get my hands on their map. I will load this in and then when back at Powerstation will be able to compare the Cosworth map and my Custom map back to back on the same dyno to compare the differences.
Looks like my pulley is a little smaller than what they are using so I am running a little more boost. This may explain why I am getting better bhp figures than them. I am going to measure mine and Cosworth will send me the other one so I can choose which I am going to use. I might go for the larger one just to be on the safe side as I don't want to run too much boost on a high compression engine.
I will let you know of any further development.
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Am I correct in thinking that to put a loading on the antiroll bar the adjusters have to be unequal to each other to add torsion?
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You might be onto something there. I will have to loose it somewhere in the car.
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NA = Mk1 from 1989 to 1998
NB = Mk2 from 1998 to 2005
NC = Mk3 from 2005 to Present
Also there is a Mk2.5 which was a face lift and now a Mk3.5 coming out in April 2009.
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PS I have just read on another forum that Steve Heath is selling the same thing for less? lol. I see the instructions say Steve Heath Engineering Limited on the bottom. I take it this is who is making them for you? I hope they are not using your design and development and then under cutting you. Could all just be Chinese whispers though.
MX-5 Cosworth Supercharger
in Modifications and Power Tuning
Posted
When I was at powerstation it looked like they were well into the setting up of the suspension. They had the car on the alignment machine and after measuring all the suspension components and some clever software, mapped out all the angles and positions etc etc. Was a little but over my head though but the general consensus was they thought the roll centres were too high with the standard components.