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Setting up adjustable damping


jammy
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Any tips? I have spax rsx coilovers with 28 settings for bump rebound.

 

I have front set equal across the axle as do i on the rear,question is being a fwd with a heavy v6 diesel init would the front be better set at diffrent settings Due to the weight balance being more to the o/s?

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To start the front coils will be a higher rate than the rear.... You say 28 way adjustable is that a single point or one for bump and one for rebound... How many knobs does it have :D

 

Assuming setting 0 is full off and 28 is full on then your baseline would be 16 front from full off and 12 rear from full off. Once set you need to assess the feel and adjust accordingly but Adjust sequentially meaning if you feel the front needs more/ less then adjust just the front then if that doesn't solve the problem put the front back and then adjust the rear. Don't do front and rear at the same time. 

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Just the one knob on each 16 front Nd 12 rear is where I am at. The n/s/F doesn't dip in the tight bends as much as the o/s/F does. You can feel the weight of the engine shift when taking a hard left turn.. The back stayed pretty flat until I raised it 15mm..tbh the car cornered flat until the rear went up..

 

Can the rear camber be tricked? Ie set the camber to as far will go towards positive at its current ride hight and then drop the 15mm again?

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How are the coils adjusted? Do you have one ring under the coil or two. Some coilovers have height adjusters and coil pre-load adjusters. If your height is adjusted by lifting the coil directly then it's probable each corner has a different pre-load.

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When I build up the shocks before fitting both sides was set equally.. Although I set them at ride hight I wanted.. Don't want to have to alter it all again 😂as said though untill I raised the rear back up it drove and responded sweet despite the camber and castor issues..

 

Did you notice on today's print out the castor angle is all but a nats c**k out

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First ring is the adjuster, second ring is the lock. This ,means the factory pre-load setting at zero is lost once the height is adjusted. Each corner now could have a different pre-load meaning the coil load and deflection is inconsistent. This is one of the reasons i dropped the Gaz suspension.  Put it this way, the washer bottle holds about a gallon of water to one side of the engine bay? Do you know how much a gallon of water weighs? And let's say the coil pre-load is set to accommodate the weight of a gallon of water.....What happens when it's empty?

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It was a pain on the MX5 but luckily the previous owner had it all set up with WIM and I've not touched it. I drove the car with the preload set wrong before I bought it so I feel your pain! :(

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Not sure it is even that mate. It's been fine for over 4 weeks and Nd good 2000 + miles but now something isn't right..

 

I don't want to drive it 150 mile. S for work tonight I know that much..

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If they look like this then the top ring adjusts the pre-load and a lock ring. The bottom ring adjusts the height.

 

post-2-0-15217800-1531412280.jpg

 

If they look like this then the top ring adjusts the height and pre-load whether you want it to or not.

 

post-2-0-40166300-1531412367.jpg

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Since there's no ring at the bottom of the thread then you have to add pre-load to raise the height. Lowering will have zero pre-load and to avoid coil chatter off bump it has a helper coil. So they are correct in saying there's no pre-load but it's only in one direction "down".

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