Tony Posted August 14, 2012 Report Share Posted August 14, 2012 Is that the side that had the bearing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted August 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2012 Bearing was left side, noise is when turning right so it's probably coming from the same side the bearing was done. It may just be something rubbing somewhere as it was fine going home after the bearing was fitted and I'm sure it was ok yesterday, I don't have the radio that loud. I'll have a look around the wheel when I get home and try to jack it up if I get time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted August 14, 2012 Report Share Posted August 14, 2012 Check the disc dust shield isn't rubbing on lock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted August 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2012 Yeah that's what I was thinking of as well....will let you know if it is or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted August 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2012 No time to check tonight, it seems to be getting dark quickly now! Hopefully I will get the chance tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted August 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2012 Mmmm, it didn't do it this morning, I definitely weren't imagining it. I did put the wheels on full lock before I left for work to try and see what could be causing it, so maybe it is something rubbing and it moved doing this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted August 15, 2012 Report Share Posted August 15, 2012 Typical.... If it's something very close together then maybe it needs to get hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted August 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2012 I left work yesterday and it didn't do it until I was almost home. Going to work this morning I did a couple of hard rights and it seemed fine but when I was almost at work it did it. So I think you're right it's when it's getting hot but what could be causing it so it only does it when the wheel is turned? Wouldn't be the bearing would it? Unless the caliper is still binding? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted August 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2012 Still doing it but only when hot. I noticed when I got to work and I was manoeuvring slowly to park it did it then as well and I was barely moving so it must be something rubbing. Or maybe when everything was taken apart to do the bearing it's disturbed something? I'm going to do my rear brakes tomorrow so I'll check everything then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vipercar93 Posted August 17, 2012 Report Share Posted August 17, 2012 Tony did mention that when it gets hot it might be the dust shield touching . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted August 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2012 Well I took the wheel off and had a look, the dust shield isn't touching although it's very close to the disc. Couldn't get the noise to happen so I will do another road test and see if it's still there, maybe moving everything has stopped it....hopefully! I did notice the dust cover for the piston has a cut in it now, can only imagine this happened when getting the bearing done as it wasn't there before. Good job I'm going to replace it anyway. The piston looks to have some rust spots on it so I think that might need replacing. The brake is still binding and Big Redd said it could be the bore seal is slightly swollen so I'm going to buy the seal kit they do for the fronts. What do you think of the piston, replace it or clean it up? The seal kit is £29 and the pistons are £19.90 each, if I get those I would do both for peace of mind. I also changed the rear brakes today after getting that carrier bolt off. Easy enough to change the discs and pads but the handbrake is a right PITA to adjust!! The handbrake shoes use the inside of the disc as a drum and I had to adjust the wheel through a hole in the disc to retract them. The trouble is the shoes were rubbing when I spun the disc and the weight of the wheel on it was even worse. I backed them off but I think they might still be slightly rubbing so need to adjust it another notch or 2. The handbrake lever is now pointing north though, it's very high. When I'm sure I've adjusted the shoes at the discs properly I need to adjust the cable on the handbrake, which means removing the centre console. It was so much easier having the auto adjuster on the Mondeo! I have a feeling whoever replaced the rear brakes last didn't adjust the handbrake properly using the correct procedure, discs/shoes first and then the handbrake cable. I also think the rear brakes may have been binding slightly. After doing one side I spun the wheel on the other before removing and it's spinning more freely since I changed the discs and pads. I know there isn't much meat on these shoes to start with but it didn't seem like there was much left. So unless they had been using it for stopping rather than the foot brake they must've been binding to cause the wear. I'm wondering if that could be causing my poor MPG as well, cos really I should be getting more than I do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bazza Posted August 19, 2012 Report Share Posted August 19, 2012 heads up Rich Fensport are taking in a t-sport this week and breaking it ! engine failure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vipercar93 Posted August 19, 2012 Report Share Posted August 19, 2012 Parking brake shoes are never very robust, they are intended to only hold the car on hills ect. I think you will find that your parking brakes shoes do drag when you first re-install them onto new disks. There is a spring to pull the 2 sides together, but in older cars they tend to stick a little and rely a little bit on the disk kicking the shoes back. If your lever is high you might find they are not done tight enough. Park it on a hill and see if it moves back. Not sure how yours is done, but have a check at the 'splitter' section where the single parking brake cable splits in 2 to reach each side. You need to adjust the shoes so that is level, then if you need more strength it sounds like they gave you another adjustment at the lever use that one. That piston is shot, you install new seals on that piston you will tear the new seals out. FYI when winding brakes back in make sure you turn the bleeder screw, if you try to force the piston back without the bleeder screw you have to force brake fluid back into the master reservoir. You 'can' damage the caliper piston bore and rip more seals inside if you are not careful and pull it back centred. A brake winding kit helps. How much are re-manufactured brake calipers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted August 19, 2012 Report Share Posted August 19, 2012 A common mistake is not backing off the handbrake cable before adjusting the shoes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted August 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2012 heads up Rich Fensport are taking in a t-sport this week and breaking it ! engine failure How did you find that out and where would they advertise the parts? Do you know what caused the engine to fail, they're pretty robust? Although I know they suffer with oil starvation if you track them and don't change the sump. Parking brake shoes are never very robust, they are intended to only hold the car on hills ect. I think you will find that your parking brakes shoes do drag when you first re-install them onto new disks. There is a spring to pull the 2 sides together, but in older cars they tend to stick a little and rely a little bit on the disk kicking the shoes back. If your lever is high you might find they are not done tight enough. Park it on a hill and see if it moves back. Not sure how yours is done, but have a check at the 'splitter' section where the single parking brake cable splits in 2 to reach each side. You need to adjust the shoes so that is level, then if you need more strength it sounds like they gave you another adjustment at the lever use that one. That piston is shot, you install new seals on that piston you will tear the new seals out. FYI when winding brakes back in make sure you turn the bleeder screw, if you try to force the piston back without the bleeder screw you have to force brake fluid back into the master reservoir. You 'can' damage the caliper piston bore and rip more seals inside if you are not careful and pull it back centred. A brake winding kit helps. How much are re-manufactured brake calipers? The handbrake holds on a hill, already tried that but the lever is very high. I'm having another look this afternoon and readjust them. The correct procedure is to tighten the shoes so the disc can't be spun and then back it off about 6 notches so it spins freely. Then adjust the handbrake to reduce the number of clicks. Yeah I think the piston needs replacing, I could clean it but there's the risk it could still stick so better off replacing it. When you say wind the caliper back do mean that or push? Mine push back and everyone I know has never undone the bleeder nipple to do this, just remove the lid on the reservoir. As for a new reconditioned caliper it's £130.80 for a Pagid one from ECP. Minus 30% discount and then £24 back for the old caliper, it's just under £75 a side. If I replaced one I would replace the other as it's probably in roughly the same condition, so I'm looking at either £150 to get them already refurbed or £70 for the parts to do myself. End of the day all they do is clean them up and fit a new piston and seals. A common mistake is not backing off the handbrake cable before adjusting the shoes! How do you mean, taking the handbrake off? I did that anyway, can't see how you can adjust them with it on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bazza Posted August 20, 2012 Report Share Posted August 20, 2012 heads up Rich Fensport are taking in a t-sport this week and breaking it ! engine failure How did you find that out and where would they advertise the parts? Do you know what caused the engine to fail, they're pretty robust? Although I know they suffer with oil starvation if you track them and don't change the sump. because I know them very well dont know where or even if they will advertise anything if you need something let me know, and i can find out if they are available and for how much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted August 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2012 because I know them very well dont know where or even if they will advertise anything if you need something let me know, and i can find out if they are available and for how much That's handy! Get any discounts? If it was modified I want an uprated rear anti roll bar, they sell the Whiteline on their website but you can also get a Progress one from the US. In fact any mods it had I might be interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted August 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2012 I jacked the rear up this afternoon and removed the calipers, then made sure the pads weren't touching the discs. Tightened the handbrake shoes until the discs wouldn't moved, then backed them off until they did without rubbing. When I put the calipers on I realised it's the braking pads that are rubbing slightly. The wheels spin freely so they're not binding, does this sound ok, I can't hear any rubbing when driving the car? After adjusting the shoes I put the handbrake on and it held the car on the 10th or 11th click!! Before I fitted the new brakes it was around 7 or 8 clicks I think, maybe getting for 10 but I never counted. Removed the centre console and I found the locking nut for the adjuster on the lever wasn't exactly tight so I'm wondering if it was coming undone by itself or whoever adjusted it last didn't do it right. I adjusted it so it just holds the car on 3 clicks and for steeper hills it's 4 or 5. Also the noise when turning right seems to have gone but I will confirm when I get to work in the morning. Got the car hot earlier and apart from a squeaky bush (I think from the weather) it seems ok now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMARTLY Posted August 20, 2012 Report Share Posted August 20, 2012 Did you check the brakes weren't binding ( with handbrake off ) on the back after tightening the handbrake cable that much? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted August 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 Did you check the brakes weren't binding ( with handbrake off ) on the back after tightening the handbrake cable that much? You know what I didn't, ran out of time as I had to be somewhere and I forgot. It's only adjusted to take up the slack in the cable, which there was plenty of. After adjusting it there was still abit of slack but I'll jack it up and check tonight. It's driving fine though, not like they're binding. The foot brake is alot firmer now and the car brakes sharper....I'm quite surprised changing the rear has made that much difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted August 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 One rear disc seemed to be binding ever so slightly but both the caliper pads are rubbing as well so it's difficult to differ what's doing it. I had backed the handbrake cable off a couple of clicks now and it's spinning freely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted September 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 Does anyone know when you drain the oil in a gearbox does all of it come out? My box takes 2.5L but would all of this drain out, so could I get away with buying 2L or should I get 3L? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMARTLY Posted September 5, 2012 Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 I would expect it all to drain out, you may need to leave it 10 or 15 minutes. Best to buy more than less then you have some for top ups. I think some "modern" cars are sealed for life, don't know where I've read that so worth a look for the drain plug before you buy any. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted September 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 Yeah makes sense, just didn't want to buy the extra bottle and not use it. You can change the oil on my car so no problem there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted September 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 Ordered 3 litres of gearbox oil, 1 litre of brake fluid, 2 new wheel studs as 1 is chewing up and some anti squeal shims. Gonna be ordering my new calipers the week after next and then gonna get the lot fitted. Hopefully I can start using the car properly then as I've not used lift since I found out the brakes were sticking! Flaming cars! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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