Rich Posted March 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2012 Bugger! Tried changing the rear brakes today and the carrier bolts were rounding and I couldn't get them to budge. Plus one of the slider pins was seized so need some new ones. God knows where I'm gonna get those from by monday/tuesday as I need to get it done before I go back to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted March 31, 2012 Report Share Posted March 31, 2012 Stillsons will grab the hex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2012 Don't have any of those,might have to get some. You hit them with a big hammer then? not having much luck with bolts ATM! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted April 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 Toyota want 55 quid for 4 x carrier bolts and 4 x slider pins with boots.They don't sell just the seals. Will the car be ok to drive with the rubber sleeve missing? My thinking is it wasn't working properly to start with being seized but it moves now, just missing the sleeve part. I'm away on Friday for a week and need the car when I get back for work. Anyone know where I can buy a seal kit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted April 3, 2012 Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 Pack to pin with plenty of grease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted April 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 I don't have any red grease though, been meaning up get some. What would packing it with grease do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted April 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 I bought some red grease earlier from eBay but I don't know what to do about these bolts and seals. I phoned my local Toyota dealer earlier and TBH I don't think he knew what he was doing. I had already had a quote from a dealer on the Toyota forum but thought I'd check locally. You can only get the boots, anti vibration rubbers and slider pins as a kit, which is £40 + VAT. The guy on the TOC forum told me this is for both sides, the guy at my local dealer said it's for one! The local dealer also said the kits includes the carrier bolts I need and can't be sold separately, yet the dealer on TOC quoted me separately for these and said they're not part of the kit. I have a feeling the local dealer might of been thinking about the slider pin bolts even though I said 3 times are these the bolts that hold the carrier on and he said yes. To order just the bolts from the dealer on TOC I'm looking at £10 posted, £5 of that on postage! Bigg Red do the anti vibration rubbers I need at £1.90 each but the minimum spend is £5 (??) so adding some grease to that makes it £10 as well with delivery! For 2 tiny rubbers and some grease Trouble is some people have said their seals aren't very good so I'm not 100% sure about them. I can either order the bolts and bits from Bigg Red for a total of £20 or get a complete OEM kit with new slider bolts for £55 delivered. Trouble is I really don't want to spend that much or can afford it this month. Do the actual slider pins ever need replacing? I only removed one that was seized but that was down to the rubber being swollen. When I removed the rubber, the pin moved freely in the hole so I think it just needs a good clean. I have to order these either tonight or the morning before I go away so I can hopefully sort it out next Sunday. If I can't remove the carrier bolts to change the brakes, at least I can sort the slider pins out. This is the anti vibration seal I need to replace and I've been told usually only one of the slider pins has this, the other doesn't. Also the front sliders don't have any, why would this be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted April 5, 2012 Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 A good clean of the sliders and some copper slip will be fine. Not all pads have vibration shims, i think it depends how surgical the pads fit the carrier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted April 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 I thought copper slip was a big no as it eats rubbers and makes them swell, which is why I've bought the red stuff? The pin wasn't a tight fit once that sleeve had been removed so I guess it does need it. Would having that missing damage the pin or is it just used to stop vibration when braking? I didn't even know it served that purpose until today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted April 5, 2012 Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 I used to coat the leading edge of the pin with slip, albeit right or wrong i had no option at the time. As for the vibration shims, no French cars have them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted April 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 Carrier bolts haven't arrived yet, I had an email saying they had been ordered though. Yesterday I removed the slider pin and replaced the anti vibration rubber. There was no gunk in the hole or on the boot at all so I think it must've been bone dry, probably the cause of it seizing? I used a smear of (red) grease on everything, I've read if you use too much it can create a vacuum stopping the pin from working properly. I took the car for a blast and all seems ok, the wheel isn't hot afterwards but then I wasn't sure if it was to start with. I'm suspecting that side wasn't even locking on though. I didn't do the other slider pin as it was moving ok and I didn't want to damage any of the rubbers removing it. When these bolts arrive I'll have another go at removing the other ones, if I still can't get them to budge I'll have to bring the car over Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted June 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 Don't know if I mentioned this before but I have a leak in the boot!!! I think I have found where it's dripping in from, which is the boot lid but I'm not sure how it's getting in. The spoiler is bonded on so I think it can only be the rear screen or the boot handle trim. It's bloody annoying though, especially after the leak I had in the Mondeo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted July 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 I just got back from ECPs getting some parts for the Civic. There's a big car park there so drove it on lock each way, left was silent and right was the noise above. Started making my way home and stopped at the lights when I noticed a funny smell. Thought it was the car in front so carried on. Went on the M25 and got off where there are more lights and got the smell again. Then I saw smoke from the N/S wheel, caliper was seized! Got it home and they were smoking hot, literally!! I only regreased them a few weeks ago! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted July 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 Well I stripped it earlier and both slider pins are fine, the caliper moves quite freely. The piston also pushes back with little effort, doesn't seem seized anyway. However when I spin the wheel (N/S) there is resistance. As soon as I move it to spin it instantly stops. The other side moves ok. So when I corner right I think the N/S wheel is lifting but cos of this resistance the wheel isn't spinning properly and I'm getting that noise. Best way to describe it is a whosshing noise. What I should've done earlier when I had the caliper off was put the wheel back on and then try to rotate it and see if this resistance was still there. On the wheel I had alot of burnt on pad residue as well. If this noise is being caused by that caliper I don't understand why I only get it when cornering, if the piston isn't retracting properly shouldn't there be a constant rubbing sound when driving in a straight line? This is also the side that did have seized slider pins, which I cleaned up and regreased at the start of the year I think but they're still fine. Is there a test I can do to see if the piston is retracting on it's own though? I did think it might be a bearing problem to start with but there is no play in the wheel, up and down or side to side and a knackered bearing wouldn't cause any of this residue on the wheel. Also might be worth a mention but a couple of times when I've braked I get a low juddering through the pedal a couple of times. It feels like ABS has kicked in but this is at low speed with gentle braking so it shouldn't be that. For a sports car with 190bhp Toyota really didn't think these brakes through, I don't trust them at all now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted July 23, 2012 Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 Pump the brake then see if the wheel turns, also swap the pads ns-to-os and see if the problem moves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted July 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 I was going to take the caliper off and the pads out, put the wheel back on and see if it spins. Then after putting it back I was going to try and drive it up the road and turn right before I brake to see if the noise is still there. I never thought about swapping the pads over, I'll try that as well. Why did the brake start smoking though after driving on full lock a few times? The brakes don't move when turning do they, so I don't understand that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted July 23, 2012 Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 No they don't move, are you sure the pads aren't handed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted July 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 Yes they're handed but are on the right way, don't think they fit the other way anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted July 23, 2012 Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 Just checking...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parthiban Posted July 23, 2012 Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 If it feels like the ABS is coming on, could you have a faulty sensor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted July 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 A faulty ABS sensor should throw a light up on the dash though. Took the car out earlier and got the brakes hot with some heavy use and there was no burning smell. Both wheels were the same temperature aswell, not too hot. I don't understand why I got that burning when driving on full lock. Can anyone offer an explanation? Looking at the outer pad you can see it's touching the disc, whereas the other side isn't. I'm gonna try and do the things mentioned above one night after work. If I'm still not sure I'll have to pop over to Chesham and get the lads to look. How can you sort out a sticky piston though, would it need machining? What about old fluid, could that cause it? Dodgy hose maybe? To top it off, I've got a squeak when steering left now with this heat. Probably a dry bush Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liner33 Posted July 23, 2012 Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 Could be worn CV joint , it is fwd isnt it?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted July 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 A worn CV joint won't stop the wheel from rotating will it? They make a clicking noise usually as well. Yes it's FWD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted July 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 I drove to work this morning without having to use the brakes that much and when I did it was very light use. Early start and school holidays means the roads are empty so that's handy. Anyway when I got into work I touched the drivers wheel and it wasn't hot at all, still fairly cool. When I touched the passenger side it was quite warm so I'm almost certain it's that piston now. Hopefully I can get out of work early one night and get it jacked up again to check. Toyota want over £200 a caliper and I don't want used ones as I'll probably get the same problem so who else sells decent replacement calipers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted July 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 Another thing, if there is no play in the wheel is it still possible for a bearing to be on it's way out? Every thread I've read on the Corolla forum where people have had binding brakes they've never had this noise and when they do get a noise it's usually in a straight line not cornering. Noise is between 44 - 60 seconds http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu6jdB6njOs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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