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TVR Chimera GAZ coilover install


Tony
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Great looking and handling car

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But not with spent coils and oils and i think you will agree these look well tired

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Enter the GAZ Gold Pro, notice the rose joint anchor points ( Teflon lined = no maintenance ) rather than the sloppy rubber points.

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Removing the old units is not problem free, as you can see access to the bolts is not easy, even more troublesome if they are seized

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The lower retaining bolts are held within the A arm and even when loose they are problematic to remove/ refit

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After much tinkering old meets new

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Finally fitted

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The TVR has a fully adjustable chassis but not as we know it. The adjuster design is questionable to say the least. With the wheels off it's wist to free the front/ rear camber adjusters but more important is to free off the rear toe adjusters

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Best way to gain access is to drop the anti-roll bar

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If they are seized then the adjuster needs to be replaced and a new thread cut into the lower A arm, in this case everything moved ( eventually ) The coilovers where set for fast road and then the chassis calibrated.

 

In this case i opted for a stock calibration to allow the owner to experience the suspension before the calibration is advanced, in a few 100? 1000 miles i will fine-tune the calibration to suit and since this advance is free i feel it's the best way to go for the customer.

 

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Problem free, three hours..... Fact is i'm the sort of person who wants to know in advance how much something will cost and i reflect this in the times we quote, this install should only take two hours then the geo and the price quoted for this is locked at the time it should take even if it takes longer, this way there's no financial surprises and the customers budget remains the same.

 

This attitude burns me sometimes because things don't always to plan but i prefer this method rather then saying "oh it took longer that's another £100".

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Nice shiny looking car from the top, but it looks as though the owner would be well advised to spend a few £100s having the chassis descaled, derusted and properly rustproofed.

The lower retaining bolt closeup pic shows some nasty corrosion brewing in the corners.

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Nice shiny looking car from the top, but it looks as though the owner would be well advised to spend a few £100s having the chassis descaled, derusted and properly rustproofed.

The lower retaining bolt closeup pic shows some nasty corrosion brewing in the corners.

 

Here - here. What the bible would call a "whited sepulchre".

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'tis my car.

Firstly, many thanks to Tony for taking the time to explain everything he was doing - in laymans terms.

The handling was really quite bad on the old shocks and it turned out that the rear right had blown its seals as well.

The car now rides much much better, but I think I'll need a little adjustment as it still bounces (rebound?) a little more than I would like over a particular road I drive each day, which has multiple undulations - one after another.

 

I've only had the car for two weeks, so please excuse the flaking underneath. Its pretty solid, but I will get the surface rust rubbed down and treated. The last owner was French, and he readily admitted that he spent his cash on mechanics only and didn't worry about body condition (he never polished it once while he owned it!! - he said the french don't really go for the "show and shine", but rather the driving).

 

Roll on summer!

 

cheers

Michael

 

 

PS - Tony, its "Chimaera", not "Chimera" :D

(I know, I'm pedantic)

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Still some work to be done, we need to finalize the bump/ rebound and then fine-tune the Geometry to suit you.......

 

 

Yeah, you did say that on Saturday.

A friend has got his S2000 booked in with you on Saturday 15th May for a geo set-up. Would it be possible to get mine adjusted at the same time?

cheers

Michael

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  • 2 weeks later...
Hi Tony

can you give me your opinion on "wheel hop".

I've been experiencing it quite a lot under hard acceleration from a standstill.

Can this be dialled out?

cheers

Michael

 

Need more information... Reads like "bump" issue on the damper?

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Hi Tony

can you give me your opinion on "wheel hop".

I've been experiencing it quite a lot under hard acceleration from a standstill.

Can this be dialled out?

cheers

Michael

 

Need more information... Reads like "bump" issue on the damper?

 

Hi Tony

its difficult to describe.

Previously, when I set off from a standstill with "enthusiasm", the rear wheels would spin nice and smoothly and I would leave two lines of rubber.

Now when I try and do the same there is no smooth tyre spin. The tyres now seem to very very quickly go through a cycle of spin, grip,"hop/skip/judder", spin, grip hop etc etc. It feels very bad, sounds bad and is probably bad for the drivetrain.

I found a little article on the web (link below) that talks about it, and how "toe" can be responsible, but its not really clear to me (the whole alignment and set up process is a bit of a mystery to me)

Wheel Hop Linky

 

I'm pretty sure it'll be just an adjustment needed in the shock settings (at least i hope so, as its spoiling my enjoyment) :P

cheers

Michael

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