Rich Posted October 25, 2009 Report Share Posted October 25, 2009 They look awesome mate, could do with something like that on mine Indeed you could Get Gaz to make some for me <_ i think they actually make the only coilovers for mondeo anyway.> Height isn't the problem, it's the consequence that needs resolving and this has nothing to do with GAZ. AFAIK Gaz is the only company that makes coilovers for 97-00 mondeos. I'm not sure if they're camber adjustable or not though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon Posted October 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2009 Had my first drive on these today - wow. It's really made me realise just how screwed the old ones were. Yeah they are good adjusters, much better than an EZ cam...... The only ones to watch out for are the drift coilovers, reason being the camber starts way low and normally runs out of adjustment before any thing decent for the road is concerned. I've actually taken the ez cam's out for now as I want to see on Saturday where the car is without them. Don't worry, I'll be bringing them with me just in case as i know you love them Actually, do you think it's time i bought a new set? They've been in that car for years (though haven't done that many miles.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted October 27, 2009 Report Share Posted October 27, 2009 Had my first drive on these today - wow. It's really made me realise just how screwed the old ones were. Yeah they are good adjusters, much better than an EZ cam...... The only ones to watch out for are the drift coilovers, reason being the camber starts way low and normally runs out of adjustment before any thing decent for the road is concerned. I've actually taken the ez cam's out for now as I want to see on Saturday where the car is without them. Don't worry, I'll be bringing them with me just in case as i know you love them Actually, do you think it's time i bought a new set? They've been in that car for years (though haven't done that many miles.) The top adjusters have more than enougth range plus i have EZ bolts at work if needs be...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon Posted October 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2009 I've got the old Ez cams. I think the front will be ok, but the rears will need them as there's no camber adjustment on the topmounts. BTW, I'll probably be bringing a fair bit of photography equipment to document it all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted October 27, 2009 Report Share Posted October 27, 2009 I've got the old Ez cams. I think the front will be ok, but the rears will need them as there's no camber adjustment on the topmounts. BTW, I'll probably be bringing a fair bit of photography equipment to document it all Oh blimey...... i have to shave then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon Posted October 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 Is anyone coming tomorrow? I'm just wondering whether I need to bother with the second seat tonight... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 Is anyone coming tomorrow? I'm just wondering whether I need to bother with the second seat tonight... I can't make it now, we're going to Chessington... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon Posted November 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2009 Tony hard at work Thanks again for sat tony, she does feel much better. You were 100% right about the castor though, she doesn't like self correcting at all and the bump steer is VICIOUS. I'll be getting adjustable tie rods ASAP as I don't have any confidence to drive hard on the road at the moment, the slightest bump has the car steering for a ditch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted November 2, 2009 Report Share Posted November 2, 2009 Stunning looking fella Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon Posted November 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2009 Couple of others Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted November 2, 2009 Report Share Posted November 2, 2009 She looks really clean............... from a distance . Was happy that this time i never managed to brake anything off the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbotrev Posted November 8, 2009 Report Share Posted November 8, 2009 I have also just fitted some of these BC RM coilovers. Just wondering how you've got them set up Jon. I've got my first track day this Friday, and i'm after an ideal setting. How much camber have you got on the front and toe? Also, what settings have ya found best with the dampers? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon Posted November 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2009 If it's your first trackday go somewhere near stock with a little more camber, learn how the car feels then work out what you want. I've not found a decent setting yet for my dampers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted November 8, 2009 Report Share Posted November 8, 2009 I have also just fitted some of these BC RM coilovers. Just wondering how you've got them set up Jon. I've got my first track day this Friday, and i'm after an ideal setting. How much camber have you got on the front and toe? Also, what settings have ya found best with the dampers? Cheers What settings do you have now? .... At the end of the day it's not what Jon's got it's what you have and what you want to exploit from that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbotrev Posted November 9, 2009 Report Share Posted November 9, 2009 Well at the moment, ive got -1 on both sides on the front camber, and +1mm on the toe. The caster is fixed at 3.40 ish. On the rear its -1.5 camber and 2.8mm on the toe. My dampers are set sorfer at the back at the moment for drag starts, but will hopefully firm them up for the track. They are currectly on 7th click from firmist on front, and 12th from firmist on rear. At the moment it just feels very understeery. Like its wants to go wide at the front. Will more -ve front camber sort this out?? I'd rather have oversteer to be honest. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted November 9, 2009 Report Share Posted November 9, 2009 With such a low castor your not going to get much camber migration on the corner so your best to dig the front in at about -1 degree 30' and dial out the rear to around -45'. If the track is short then -30' toe out front and +20' rear subject to any polly's fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbotrev Posted November 9, 2009 Report Share Posted November 9, 2009 Well at the moment, ive got -1 on both sides on the front camber, and +1mm on the toe. The caster is fixed at 3.40 ish. On the rear its -1.5 camber and 2.8mm on the toe. My dampers are set sorfer at the back at the moment for drag starts, but will hopefully firm them up for the track. They are currectly on 7th click from firmist on front, and 12th from firmist on rear. At the moment it just feels very understeery. Like its wants to go wide at the front. Will more -ve front camber sort this out?? I'd rather have oversteer to be honest. Cheers Right i have just visited NigellangGarage today in bolton. The fella looking at my car tried to ring you Tony, but you were busy and sadly we didnt get the call back before i had left. Anyway, I dont know why, but my camber had changed somewhat from getting it done at Drurylane Services in Oldham the week before. It was at -1.3 on one side and -0.3 on the other when they initially checked it at NigelLang today. Bizarre. It is now set at 1.3ish both sides in the front, and toe has been reduced to .1 per side at front. I think i'd still like more initial cornering feel on the turn in. What camber would you recommend on the front, before the rear starts getting twitchy? The back is at -2 on left and -1.5 on right. Tar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted November 9, 2009 Report Share Posted November 9, 2009 You may have missed my post before yours but pretty much that..... -2 degrees rear is no good i'm afraid..... As for the call, at 5.30 one of the lads said "did i tell you Langs phoned?"..... err no you didn't!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbotrev Posted November 9, 2009 Report Share Posted November 9, 2009 Sorry, must have been writting as you replied. ha. So would it be worth getting adjustable tension rods to adjust my caster a tad then? What are the toe in values you just said, in mm?? Determined to get it how i want it. the track is the Oulton Park Full Circuit, so its pretty long. also my steering wheel is pointing slightly to the right when driving straight. As all the thrust angles are bob on, does that just mean i need to remove my steering wheel and turn it a bit? Cheers again. Think were writing at same times again. Thought that might have happened with the call to be honest. Just didnt want to suggest he just call you again to check to avoid appearing desperate, or that he might be lost without your guidance. :-). So how should the back be ideally then? Less camber, more toe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted November 9, 2009 Report Share Posted November 9, 2009 The MR2 is so light at the front you cannot depend on the KPI/ SAI to maintain straight line stability, when the front camber is lowered toward negative the KPI/SAI becomes even more redundant so having the castor adjustable compensates massively. Front toe is displayed in minutes and if you can cope with the twitchy feel at speed then front toe out works best, toe in at the rear to encourage progressive oversteer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted November 9, 2009 Report Share Posted November 9, 2009 Forgot to say if the steering's of centre then there's been an error at the final stages of setting the front toe.... you need to go back and i will call them tomorrow to give them a heads up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbotrev Posted November 9, 2009 Report Share Posted November 9, 2009 Forgot to say if the steering's of centre then there's been an error at the final stages of setting the front toe.... you need to go back and i will call them tomorrow to give them a heads up. Excellent. Cheers tony. I'm on nights at mo, so will give them a call tomorrow when i get up and discuss when they can look at it again. Ideally tomorrow late afternoon. Sadly i doubt i'll be able to get adjustable tension rods in time for my track day on friday, but will have a look anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackherer Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 does that just mean i need to remove my steering wheel and turn it a bit? I see so many old 205 GTIs that people have done that to. There is only one position on the rack for the wheel to be put on, if its moved to compensate for alignment issues you end up with more steering lock one way compared to the other but also, as the track rods have to be adjusted to differing lengths to compensate, you can get weird bumpsteer and ackermann related issues with heavier steering in one direction than the other. The first thing I do in an old car now is check if the steering wheel goes to the same (but opposite) angle at each lock, I realise its not very accurate but it gives you an idea. I have heard that some cars (Porsches?) have a slot in the steering rack so a locking pin can be inserted when it is exactly centred so you can put the steering wheel on in the right place. Why don't all cars have something like this? Tony, is an uncentered rack/mispositioned steering wheel a fault you encounter often with home built/DIY repaired cars? A while ago I took my 205 that I built from a bare shell to several alignment places who all failed to spot my uncentered rack, I then did some googling and learned a bit about alignment from sites including this one and then managed to persuade my local MOT centre to let me use their ramp and laser tracker myself to get it centered then get the toe set which absolutely transformed the car from barely driveable to stuck to the road! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 I think the old Golf was an exception to the rule with a fixed OSF steering arm, seemingly there was a procedure to centre the steering wheel after toe adjustment but in hindsight it was total rubbish.... Locking the steering rack via pins is still very common but if the machine used can acquire the thrust position there's no point, in fact i have never used pins front/ rear even with Hicas systems. I come across off-centre racks all the time, if it's a home build then fair enough it may simply involve setting the racks centre to the thrust via the steering arms or actually moving the racks anchor points to centre it, either way it's nothing difficult. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CIH Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 would have to be really bad to cause bump steer wouldn't it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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