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Questions about alignment kit!


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Hi all

We are a small garage that have a CCD based alignment machine, like this:

 

Image result for ccd alignment system

We intend to use the machine on a drive on ramp, which has extensions that are mounted to the floor. These will be levelled in all directions. The ramp section only covers the chassis of the car and leaves the wheels hanging when lifted, like so:

Image result for scissor lift car

 

Our system allows you to mount up, then tell it you are lifting the vehicle and it adds the offset, allowing you to adjust the vehicle in the air. Is this accurate or a load of rubbish?

I plan to use dished turn plates under the front wheels for that setup, but would have though they would add errors in camber measurements? I assume the rears would need it as well, but would have though these need to be flat. 

 

Failing that, I plan to use the alignment stands on our 2 poster, which will allow for measurements to be made with the cars weight on the suspension. Will we have the same issues with the dished turnplates on that? I assume so?

 

Thanks in advance, it would be good to find an independent training or supplier that is willing to sell support or give advice. All the ones we found just want to sell us 10k+ worth of new alignment tech. 

 

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Hello and welcome...

Front turn plates are a must and rear slip plates will also be required.The rear plates allow camber to shift and toe to move in a transverse manner, Plus if you are going to use front plates the cars level will be off meaning the castor measurement will be wrong.

To date I've never seen a machine that allows live front toe adjustment ( wheels raised ) Reason for this is raised the toe moves two directions and since the live toe cannot fine it's true position in space the datum will be in gray-shade. You need front plates on bearings because the dish type only works for toe.

 

I would strongly advise you get an initial measurement before the wheels are raised because it's the settled virgin data.

 

 

 

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Yeah i remember being able to do castor in the air,  toe understandably not able too..

Camber and castor ive managed to get some where in the money by premeasuring things before removing bolts etc

 

 

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21 hours ago, Tony said:

Hello and welcome...

Front turn plates are a must and rear slip plates will also be required.The rear plates allow camber to shift and toe to move in a transverse manner, Plus if you are going to use front plates the cars level will be off meaning the castor measurement will be wrong.

To date I've never seen a machine that allows live front toe adjustment ( wheels raised ) Reason for this is raised the toe moves two directions and since the live toe cannot fine it's true position in space the datum will be in gray-shade. You need front plates on bearings because the dish type only works for toe.

I would strongly advise you get an initial measurement before the wheels are raised because it's the settled virgin data.

 

 

 

 

Thank you very much indeed. I did think on all 4 points that they will have to be level. 

I have an eye on a set of turn plates that can be unlocked and move in all 4 directions, I assume these will be ok for rear and front if I buy 4?

I will invest in a set of stands, as I doubt your 4 poster will end up being level for all the different vehicles wheelbases! LWB S classes hang off the end for example, so I think using our 2 poster would be better. 

Much appreciated.

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I've seen some platforms that allow the car to be lowered form a ramp like yours, Providing the front plates can turn 360d and the rears can move latterly then that will help.

Nevertheless the front and rear must be level. Best method is shims.

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22 hours ago, alexanderfoti said:

Absolutely, even customers with £500 merc wheels wont have a chipped wheel, I dont blame them. Horrible design. 

Snap-on and Super tracker use the same method. It's possible your machine can have tyre huggers type of system.....At a cost :rolleyes:

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22 hours ago, alexanderfoti said:

The only issue with hunters, is that they need a permanent bay and a 4 poster I believe? We only have 2 ramps and cannot dedicate one just for geo at the moment.

Two posters are fine providing there are slip-plates on the trellises.... A word of warning air suspension needs to be locked off if the wheels are raised but they don't always settle once jacked. If you take an initial print before jacking it will make explaining why the cambers on the rear have go from green to red without adjustment. 

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Absolutely. I indend to have slip plates on all 4 corners, 2 front ones will rotate as well. 

I am very used to the foibles of MB air suspension or ABC, ill keep it in mind. 

I will have to have the car settle on the stands properly, as the floor wont be level, so ill need to get it on the levelled stands and then get the car to level manually via STAR etc. as I indend to lift car > put on stands > attachd alignment heads and go from there, or is that no good?

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