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Steering to the left following 4 wheel alignment


CraigDK
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Hi I have a  2010 mb E class A207 which has since day one drifted to the left but over the last year I would go as far to say the car steers to the left and in .my opinion dangerous. I had both front coil springs and NSF lower control arm replaced before Xmas following a snapped coil spring. After this job was completed the steering wheel had to be held offset to the right to make the car go straight. I visited a local KwikFit (on recommendation from a garage who said they were good for shell alignment). They assured me they would fix the problems but when I got back in the car it still pulls/steers to the left but now I have to hold the wheel offset to the left to make the car run straight. I haven't had chance to go back and ask them to try to fix the issue yet. I have attached a printout of the wheel alignment, can anyone comment on the results with info that may help me resolve the problem

 

Kind regards

 

Craig 

MB E Class 4WA.jpg

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First thing is they should have corrected the NSR toe which is adjustable. That way the thrust angle would have been 0.00. The thrust angle is the reference point the front wheels use to establish where forward is. It being green doesn’t mean it's right hence the steering wheel position.

The pull left is because of the castor positions. Castor's force ( energy ) is directional stability, with the lower figure leading. The castor can be adjusted but it will need MB adjuster bolts, in your case you need two. One to bring the NSF wheel forward, so more castor and one to push the OSF wheel back, less castor.

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41 minutes ago, Tony said:

First thing is they should have corrected the NSR toe which is adjustable. That way the thrust angle would have been 0.00. The thrust angle is the reference point the front wheels use to establish where forward is. It being green doesn’t mean it's right hence the steering wheel position.

The pull left is because of the castor positions. Castor's force ( energy ) is directional stability, with the lower figure leading. The castor can be adjusted but it will need MB adjuster bolts, in your case you need two. One to bring the NSF wheel forward, so more castor and one to push the OSF wheel back, less castor.

Thanks Tony, so do you think I'm within my rights to at least ask them to zero the thrust then make sure the steering wheel is straight and accept that with the MB castor adjustment bolts I won't be able to change the pull to the left?

 

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1 minute ago, CraigDK said:

Thanks Tony, so do you think I'm within my rights to at least ask them to zero the thrust then make sure the steering wheel is straight and accept that with the MB castor adjustment bolts I won't be able to change the pull to the left?

 

Sorry that should have been "without" the MB castor adjustment bolts

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4 minutes ago, Tony said:

Without question get them to do it right.... I normally let the customer set the steering position.

I'm.sure I've seen your post on here that the castor adjustment bolts are a pita to fit, is that correct? Does this mean that they cannot adjust the castor without these bolts? Tony I am 190.miles away from your workshop, how much would this castor alignment job cost and how long would it take to fix at your workshop? Are you pretty confident that you could get my car running straight ( I would be happy with a 'normal' amount of drift to the left) and a steering wheel.pounting straight

 

Cheers

 

Craig

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It'd definitely be worth it to enjoy the drive back with a straight non pulling car like when they did mine many years ago. 

You could consider getting there for the job first thing then take it for test drives to take it back later if need it for a tweak.

It's a shame that wim isn't a national chain.

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1 minute ago, NickT said:

It'd definitely be worth it to enjoy the drive back with a straight non pulling car like when they did mine many years ago. 

You could consider getting there for the job first thing then take it for test drives to take it back later if need it for a tweak.

It's a shame that wim isn't a national chain.

Yeah thinking about perhaps driving down at 6am, absolutely love the car but the pull to the left is Tiring and spoils the drive of the car

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Very confident.... I solve about 10 a week including some that have been back to Germany, who over there obviously can't find a problem because the problem is our road crown.

Cost wise, the chassis image and correcting the toe angles front and rear is £95+ vat. The MB castor bolts are £30+ vat each fitted and yes they are an arse to fit, even MB get it wrong and you need two adjusters.

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2 minutes ago, Tony said:

Very confident.... I solve about 10 a week including some that have been back to Germany, who over there obviously can't find a problem because the problem is our road crown.

Cost wise, the chassis image and correcting the toe angles front and rear is £95+ vat. The MB castor bolts are £30+ vat each fitted and yes they are an arse to fit, even MB get it wrong and you need two adjusters.

Thanks  Tony, are you open Saturdays and would I need a full day to sort it? I'll be travelling about 4 hours

 

Thanks

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On 29/01/2019 at 18:43, Tony said:

First thing is they should have corrected the NSR toe which is adjustable. That way the thrust angle would have been 0.00. The thrust angle is the reference point the front wheels use to establish where forward is. It being green doesn’t mean it's right hence the steering wheel position.

The pull left is because of the castor positions. Castor's force ( energy ) is directional stability, with the lower figure leading. The castor can be adjusted but it will need MB adjuster bolts, in your case you need two. One to bring the NSF wheel forward, so more castor and one to push the OSF wheel back, less castor.

Hi Tony, should I expect the tyres to wear unevenly following the fitting of the adjustment bolts?

 

Thanks

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