parthiban Posted May 9, 2016 Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 Not sure about the MX5 but I had a Bosch S5 in my 360 when I got it and I replaced it with an S6 which is the dry type. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted May 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 I think the S6 is too large for where it's located. Talking to Iain, apparently the guy he bought the car from fitted a new battery so it can't be that old. I'm hoping a good charge will sort it out and I won't need a battery at the moment. I finally got a spare key cut yesterday, the transponder chip needed cloning too so I went to Timpsons who did it for £40, which I thought wasn't bad. At least I have a spare key now should I need it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted May 15, 2016 Report Share Posted May 15, 2016 "longer to start now although it does turn over first time" in my book isn't the battery?..... A slow turn over -V- voltage maybe but a non starter with reasonable crank points elsewhere Rich? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted May 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 Well I don't know if this is related but when I left work earlier I started the car and it died 2 seconds later! I turned the ignition off and tried it again, this time it idled. I'll see what it's like tomorrow but any ideas on what can cause that just in case it gets worse? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted May 18, 2016 Report Share Posted May 18, 2016 Odd?......... Wonder if it could be damp related? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted May 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2016 Started fine this morning so I'll keep an eye on it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted May 18, 2016 Report Share Posted May 18, 2016 Why are all your cars like this...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted May 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2016 Don't forget it is a 17 year old car so it's bound to get the odd issue or 2 at some point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted May 18, 2016 Report Share Posted May 18, 2016 Oh yeah i agree with you there but it's just the intermittent problems that are frustrating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted May 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2016 Yeah I know, hopefully it's a one off and doesn't happen again. Once the car goes back to being a weekend toy and not a daily runner I'll be stripping the throttle body and IACV to clean them properly. I also think the MAF sensor could possibly cause this too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted May 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2016 It should've twigged before but I didn't, I think it's the new key! I got it done last Thursday and I'm using it instead of the genuine one as that feels abit fragile. I used it last Friday and Monday with no problems, then Tuesday is when it cut out. Wednesday was ok, I didn't use the car yesterday and this morning it cut out twice after starting. I took the key out, looked at it and then realised it must be the chip playing up and the mobiliser is kicking in! Got the genuine key and that worked fine Looks like I'm going back to Timpsons then. He said it would either work or it won't, so when it was ok for the first 2 days I thought it was fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parthiban Posted May 20, 2016 Report Share Posted May 20, 2016 Good thinking! I have a feeling I might have asked this before but is it stupidly expensive to get a genuine key from Mazda? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted May 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2016 I don't know the actual price but from what I've reader on the forums it's not cheap, the majority use Timpsons for spare keys that have transponder chips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted May 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2016 Just talking to the missus about this and apparently the guy said don't put it near anything magnetic, I don't think I heard him. Those new locks we got have magnetic keys!! I don't have them on the same ring but they are together on my desk and when I get home. I'll have to go back and get them to look at it. Try it for a week and then keep it as a spare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted May 22, 2016 Report Share Posted May 22, 2016 Why would a lock have a magnetic key Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parthiban Posted May 22, 2016 Report Share Posted May 22, 2016 Is it the key that's magnetic or the lock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted May 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2016 Yes the key is magnetic, when it goes into the lock it pulls the pins towards the grooves in the key so you can turn it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sagitar Posted May 22, 2016 Report Share Posted May 22, 2016 The ABS key is not of itself magnetic, nor is it made from a magnetic material, but it has two small magnets set into the line of depressions that move the locking pins into the correct position for the lock to open i.e one of the pins is moved magnetically. It is supposed to resist the technique of "bumping" locks. If you run a steel paper clip along the length of the key it is attracted to the key only at the point where the magnets have been inserted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted May 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2016 It's still pretty strong though, put the key in your pocket with change and it sticks to it. What I don't understand is it's not affected the Mazda and Accord chip or Civic when we had it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted October 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2016 I took the battery out to charge it so decided to inspect the boot floor and I'm glad I did. There was some moisture underneath the tray, which has caused rust on the recess it sits on. I think it might be the rear lights that is letting water in but it looks like you can't buy new seals for the MK2, only the MK1. This is what the boot looked like once I had removed all of the trim and carpets. If you look in-line with the yellow plug half way down you can see a dry water line. After a vacuum, cleaned with APC and a wire brush on the rusty bits. I haven't treated under the battery tray yet, I'll probably get some Bilt Hamber to use on it once I've stop the water leaking in. I don't like the centre console that comes with the MK2, especially the cup holder so I bought a MK2.5 one and fitted that yesterday. Although my coffee flask is quite tall and it still gets in the way of my arm a bit, it is much better and doesn't move around now. I just need to sort the window switch, a couple of tabs are broken so it hasn't clicked in to place. It did come with the MK2.5 switch but they're wired up differently so it doesn't work properly. When I removed the old console there was some kind of sensor in the storage compartment, there is no hole in the new one for it so does it look like something for an aftermarket alarm? I didn't reconnect it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liner33 Posted October 21, 2016 Report Share Posted October 21, 2016 That looks like a connection for a cobra alarm , you connect one of these in it if your remote fails Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-O Posted October 21, 2016 Report Share Posted October 21, 2016 Nice catch on the boot water, i'd wirebrush that off and treat - you could rattle can it with a paint match. On the rear light sills in the mean time - try a liberal smearing of vaseline on them - might be enough to close them up whilst you source now seals. I know on mine they are a foam that can flatten off over time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted October 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2016 That looks like a connection for a cobra alarm , you connect one of these in it if your remote fails Thanks, so I don't need it then, the key fobs for the alarm are long gone. I removed the parts for the remote central locking last year cos they were stopping the locks from working properly. Nice catch on the boot water, i'd wirebrush that off and treat - you could rattle can it with a paint match. On the rear light sills in the mean time - try a liberal smearing of vaseline on them - might be enough to close them up whilst you source now seals. I know on mine they are a foam that can flatten off over time. I have wire brushed it already but the dremel needs to come out to take the rest of it off or I might get some detox gel first to try, it worked brilliantly on the Mondeo. I haven't actually taken the rear lights off yet, they might not even have any seals, I find it strange you can't buy them. However, I have found these mounting point gaskets so it might be these that need replacing - http://www.mx5parts.co.uk/rear-lamp-gasket-mazda-mk2-25-p-1944.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted October 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2016 I emailed MX5 parts and they confirmed these gaskets are the seals for the rear lights and if worn can let water in. I've bought 6 of them to do both sides. Hopefully it's those and not something else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted October 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2016 I fitted these yesterday, they are so much smaller than the photo on MX5 Parts! Expensive for £11, I probably could've found something similar in the hardware shop. These are the only thing stopping water getting in from the rear lights though, there is no other seal apart from the large grommet for the wiring loom but that was ok. There is a large gap between where the lights sit and the where the bumper meets the body work, so I'd imagine a lot of water escapes down there. I just need to order the stuff to sort the rusty areas now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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