Rich Posted July 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2017 I thought you were staying the night? Traffic was a lot heavier than usual, probably down to it being the first day of the summer holidays. I would suggest you use the A1M and A505 rather than the M11, which is usually the worse road to take. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted July 23, 2017 Report Share Posted July 23, 2017 We was.... Have a read of "help me find a car" and it will explain all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted August 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2017 I'm not sure if the car is running rich or not, I averaged 35mpg when away including a few blasts down the lanes. Maybe the tank of fuel was dodgy and the short trips I do don't help but I have never got mpg that low before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickT Posted August 8, 2017 Report Share Posted August 8, 2017 Have you checked the engine coolant temp sensor (the one that the ecu references) as if they are out of calibration or open circuit, this doesn't necessarily bring a warning code on and the car will assume that the engine is cold ie over fuel. Usually there's a resistance vs temperature chart and measurement should ideally be at the ecu plug, to verify that the wiring to/from the sensor is ok. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted August 8, 2017 Report Share Posted August 8, 2017 Does it pop and bang on overrun... A sure sign of over fuelling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted August 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2017 Have you checked the engine coolant temp sensor (the one that the ecu references) as if they are out of calibration or open circuit, this doesn't necessarily bring a warning code on and the car will assume that the engine is cold ie over fuel. Usually there's a resistance vs temperature chart and measurement should ideally be at the ecu plug, to verify that the wiring to/from the sensor is ok. Good luck This is why I got the LED bulb to try and get any codes off (there is no OBD2 port/CEL) but it doesn't want to work on the car for some reason. I am no good at using a multimeter and the coolant sensor is about £35 for a Mazda one and £12 I think for aftermarket. I am planning on replacing it anyway to see if it makes a difference. I'll probably also do the oxygen sensor. Does it pop and bang on overrun... A sure sign of over fuelling. I don't think so, not that I've noticed anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted October 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2017 Car passed the MOT last week I've only done 1000 miles in the last year! I had to charge the battery up because I hadn't used it for about 5 weeks. I think I need to fit one of those cut off switches for when I'm not using it otherwise I'm going to kill the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-O Posted October 2, 2017 Report Share Posted October 2, 2017 Congrats, hardy little buggers, its the rust that'll cause grief at MOT time generally. I think i need a cut off on mine also really as i think i have ruined my S5 Bosch battery by letting it go flat too many times. Would be interested to see what you go for! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted October 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2017 Yeah he said I need to get my rear sills done before the next one. I was going to get them done this year but have been too busy and then the Accord was playing up so I had to use the car for work. I'll wait until spring next year now. Still got water getting in to the boot. On the left I think it's getting in over or under the lid seal and is running down the carpet trim. It's then going into the storage tray and underneath it. It's also still getting in on the other side and sitting under the battery tray but I have no idea how it's getting in on that side. I might have to drill a small hole under the tray so the water can at least drain out. For the cut off switch I'll probably get this - https://www.mx5parts.co.uk/battery-switch-mk1-25-p-1657.html I'll still remove the battery over winter and bring it inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted October 3, 2017 Report Share Posted October 3, 2017 You could coat the boot with something like talc to see where the water is coming in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-O Posted October 3, 2017 Report Share Posted October 3, 2017 Don't get the cutoff from MX5 parts mate - you can get them cheaper off amazon etc. They are all the same thing when you look at them. I'm going to get one myself for the winter but just unsure how i'll crimp the wires and terminate them.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted October 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2017 Yeah I've seen them cheaper since, I was reading this earlier and will probably do the same, shouldn't need to crimp anything then. http://www.mazdamenders.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=119&t=6626 Tony, I know the general area it's getting in from I just can't see where, I need to strip the boot again. I'm suspecting the boot lid seal is playing a part in it so will look for a replacement and go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted February 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2018 I haven't used the car for 2 weeks so just been out to start it but no joy! Connected my jump starter and it started first time. Got about 1/2 mile down the road and something didn't feel right. After stopping and pulling off again the car was really slow, then the smell came so I knew a brake was binding! Limped it home and it's a front one so I'll have to strip that down and clean everything when it's cooler. I barely have the handbrake on so I didn't think it would be the rears. Got a couple of little bits to fit as well, nothing exciting but I'll put some photos in when I do them. I also bought a cut off clamp to fit too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-O Posted February 1, 2018 Report Share Posted February 1, 2018 Bloody brakes eh! I go through calipers annually it feels. I have a cut off to fit also so would appreciate some pics when you do it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted February 1, 2018 Report Share Posted February 1, 2018 You have no luck with brakes do you Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted February 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2018 I'm hoping it's just the slider has seized, they're common for doing it. With only doing around 1500 miles the last year and garage it's not surprising. Ordered some brake cleaner so will do it over the weekend hopefully. Probably need to charge the battery too, going down the road and back after jump starting it wouldn't of charged it much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted February 3, 2018 Report Share Posted February 3, 2018 Ah remember you told me it takes several miles to get charge in the battery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted February 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2018 I put it on a slow charge last night including reconditioning it. It took about 16 hours in total but should be good to go now. When I removed the battery there was a puddle underneath the tray again! Barely used the car so it's not being forced in through driving. It's getting in from the rear of the boot somewhere as I saw a line of water coming out from under the trim. I think it's the boot lid seal but I'm not sure how to test that. I could try getting a used one to test but that might give the same problem. It was too cold and wet to look at the brake today. It'll probably have to wait until the end of next week now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMARTLY Posted February 3, 2018 Report Share Posted February 3, 2018 Think you can use chalk dust or talc to test the seal, just lightly dust each side. Where the water goes through the chalk / talc absorbs it a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2018 Just what I was hoping it wouldn't be! Slider pins are fine but it looks like I'm ordering some new calipers, I'll do both sides. I might as well get new sliders, boots and hoses while I'm at it and change the brake fluid.The discs have light surface rust, how can I clean these? There is no lip and the thickness is just over 20mm, the minimum is 18mm. I'll replace the pads though.I think I have found the leak, it seems to be coming from where I have drawn the red line. The outside part is behind the bumper so I can't see what's there but I reckon the water is seeping in, then running down in to the boot. I'm going to clean around it on the inside and put some sealant along the edge. If it stops the leak then I'll remove the bumper and seal that side too. This is the battery kill switch. I followed this guide but didn't need to make a shim, the negative terminal was a perfect fit. As I've got a genuine battery I couldn't have it the way they positioned it cos the part the air lines connect to were in the way. But it seems to be ok how I've done it and works fine. I just need to put some rubber or foam between the metal battery strap and negative cable as they're now touching eachother. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted March 8, 2018 Report Share Posted March 8, 2018 The surface rust is cosmetic so let the pads clean the rust off....Result finding the leak though, it's been a while in the finding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2018 The discs and pads are Pagid ones. Would it be ok to fit a different brand for the pads on the old discs or should I keep them the same? I'm hoping I can get away with just bleeding the front brakes once I've changed the. It's going to be a nightmare trying to bleed all 4 corners cos the car is a pain to jack up so I might get you guys at the centre to do a full fluid change. Hopefully some silicone will sort the leak, water sitting under the battery tray is not good, it's going rusty! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted March 9, 2018 Report Share Posted March 9, 2018 You can use any make of pads on the disc's it'll just be noisy initially while the rush gets removed. As for the bleeding you should start with the furthest away from the master and work forward from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickT Posted March 9, 2018 Report Share Posted March 9, 2018 Consider getting the rest calipers overhauled but all for stainless pots, instead of full replacement that has steel ones that can rust again? Or see if you can get stainless pots yourself and foot them to your existing calipers if this is a common problem? Big Red comes to mind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2018 I'm going to get the Budweg calipers from Brakes International, I can't be bothered to refurb them myself especially when they're only £56 a side including new boots and clips. The rears have been fine and I always park with the handbrake off when I'm not using the car for a while which probably helps. I'll see if I can get away with bleeding the fronts and then bring the car over to get you guys to change the fluid. It'll be worth the cost to save me the hassle of trying to jack all 4 corners up. When the front is on axle stands I can't get the jack under the rear! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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