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Rich's 1999 MX5 1.8i S


Rich
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I need to pull my finger out, the car has been off the road nearly 2 months now and I need to sort this rain rail out. The main reason I've put it off is I know I won't get it done in one day so would need to cover the car in case it rains. To cover it means waiting for a really dry day so the car's not wet when it goes on.

 

I'm thinking of just buying a used one and repairing that properly after a good clean - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/mazda-mx5-mx-5-eunos-mk1-mk2-mk2-5-rain-rail-rain-channel-guide-soft-top-roof-/272579285225

 

I'll use some Gorilla clear tape - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gorilla-Tape-3044701-Repair-Finish/dp/B00EUGCT22

 

Then fit it using the Dr MX5 washers - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221552359300

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Would it be worth putting some normal gaffa/gorilla tape on the back first where you are going to put the clear on the front .... to strengthen it? Or even stick some rubber on the back ( I know somebody who has got some ;) ) or would it make it too thick?

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  • 2 months later...

The car is back on the road, I have missed it! :)

 

I had no issues starting the car up after 4 months of not using it, the only thing is the clutch pedal is squeaky so I need to look at that.

 

The oil needs changing asap, it's black and I also want to do the fuel filter but it looks like I might need a special tool to get the clips off.

 

A couple of weeks a go I removed the rain rail and it was split when it bends for the corners so I taped them up with some 3M weatherproof tape I had. Just a quick job for now to see if it stopped the leaks and I'll get some foil tape to do a proper job, which seems to be a popular choice. I couldn't really get the kink out of the rubber so I might just buy a used rail and tape the whole thing up before swapping it over. I also fitted some rubber washers over the bolts before putting it all back together.

 

The repair I've done seems to have stopped the biggest leak I was getting. There was still water in the boot but I have dried this and will keep an eye on it. I'm not sure if it's coming from the rain rail or somewhere else but there are no obvious water marks to help. If it stays dry then hopefully it's just the rain rail causing it.

 

IMG_20170608_101506.jpg

 

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There is still a few drips getting on to the parcel shelf though from the hood where the flaps are near the glass. It looks like it is pooling in the corners and dripping through so I'm wondering if the hood needs a repair even though it's only 3 years old.

 

IMG_20170608_104736.jpg

 

IMG_20170608_102011.jpg

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They all go like that but it really needs a more thorough repair than what I've done but at least I'll know for definite it's this causing the leak.

 

Alternative is spend £100 on a pattern one which is suppose to be good - Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172382638302

 

Or a genuine one for £144 which has been revised so is all rubber and no plastic - http://www.mx5parts.co.uk/rain-rail-mk1-25-p-743.html

 

Some people have used something like pond liner around the original as a second layer, which only costs a few £.

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Very expensive for what it is and I might get one but most people don't have issues once they've fixed the old rain rail. The water is now running along to the drain tray rather than dripping on to the parcel shelf so the tape is working so far. I'm just going to keep an eye on it for now and make sure it was the cause of the water in the boot too. I also need to try and fix where it's seeping in from the corners by the window but it's only a few drips so nothing major.

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I've put everything back now, lost a couple of plastic clips that hold the parcel shelf carpet on, god knows where they went cos I put them all in the centre armrest. I'll lift the carpets up after we've had rain or I've washed the car to check for any leaks.

 

I did the oil change yesterday, the last one was September 2015. I didn't do it last year cos I knew the car would be coming off the road and thought it would be better to put fresh oil in when it's used again. In 21 months I have done 3,500 miles but the oil was black when it came out!

 

I also cleaned the car inside and out and put a coat of Zaino Z6 on. It's been a while since I put any kind of coating on the cars and it reminded me of how good the paint can look. I need to treat the roof and get the rear sills done before they get any worse.

 

Here's a quick snap from the phone :D

 

IMG_20170615_164551.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

I spotted some water in the plastic storage tray in the boot this morning, it must be from all the rain we had the other day. I'll have to check the aerial and filler cap areas to see if water is getting in from there. I need to pull the parcel shelf carpet up to check it's dry underneath, I'm praying that it is!!

 

Before I took the car off the road I noticed it was using more petrol, quite a bit in fact and went from around 30 to 18mpg. It seems to be drinking the fuel still so what could cause this, any ideas? Most serviceable items were changed 2-3 years a go and the car hasn't done much mileage since.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I'm not sure if it's running rich, I'll check the exhaust tomorrow when I'm working on the car. I've left it late as usual, the day before we go away!

 

I was going to plug my OBD2 reader into the car yesterday and then found out it doesn't have one or a CEL! They were added to the MK2.5. So I have ordered an LED fault tester to use with the diagnosis port. I'm hoping that arrives before we go on Friday.

 

It's this drooping idle I want to sort out as it's very annoying but from what I have read now it could either be the clutch switch or the engine coolant sensor. A used switch is £6 and a new pattern sensor about £14 so not too much to replace/test. With the car using more fuel the O2 sensor might also need replacing.

 

Tomorrow I'll be checking the air filter, I think it's a pipercross one.

Cleaning the MAF sensor, can I use contact cleaner on this, not carb cleaner?

I'll also check base idle to make sure that doesn't need adjusting again.

 

I'll put off cleaning the TB and IACV for the moment, apparently doing this can upset it even more and it might be better to swap it over for a lower mileage one.

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I bought one of the LED fault diagnosing wires which arrived yesterday. I used the bridging wire to set base idle again, which for some reason had changed quite a bit from the last time I did it.

 

When I plugged the LED in to check for error codes it wasn't working properly, it didn't even come on for 3 seconds to show it was in diagnostic mode. It has to be connected to +B (a direct feed to the battery) and FEN. Removing the bridge between GND and TEN, which overrides the ECU turned the LED on but it stayed on and didn't go out.

 

Nothing happened when I tried MEN and +B to check the switches, i.e. press the brake pedal and the LED turns on, lift off and it goes out.

 

Searching Google didn't find me any answers but I did come across one thread where others had the same issue but no solution. The diagnostic box in mine is the grey one, which doesn't have the terminal layout in the lid like the black ones do. Although apparently the pin configuration is exactly the same.

 

It's so annoying cos I don't know if there are any codes stored or not.

 

I did clean the MAF yesterday although it looked cleaned anyway but it seems to have made the car feel a little more responsive. The air filter fitted it the pipercross one and I noticed there was some oily gunk underneath it but it's not clogged up. I'm wondering if I should change it for a paper one, I know some of the filters with oil on can cause MAF problems.

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It's annoying as this is the only way to find fault codes. Apparently if an aftermarket immobiliser or alarm is fitted it can interfere with it. It does have an alarm fitted but it's not used. I'm wondering if that is causing an issue.

 

On the plus side the car made it to Norfolk even though it took over 4 hours. Left early to beat the traffic and it was like rush hour the whole way!!

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