NickT Posted December 23, 2016 Report Share Posted December 23, 2016 Yeah but it's in the green innit ! I'll get my coat. ...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luki78 Posted December 23, 2016 Report Share Posted December 23, 2016 If the cross member is off-line then the castors can adjust full left/ right so basically max out on both sides but an educated tech should wonder why? I am not sure If I get you right... but it doesn't mean that there is something wrong with my MX ? The car has had no accident. Did you mean that the person who sets up angles should be a little bit suspicious why there is like that, right ? Sorry, English is not my first language and sometimes I struggle with it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted December 23, 2016 Report Share Posted December 23, 2016 Have we already seen the car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luki78 Posted December 23, 2016 Report Share Posted December 23, 2016 Have we already seen the car? No, I live in Northamptonshire so I was looking for a closer garages. But definitely you will see, because I'm going to visit you after Christmas. The first my day off. The next thing I am thinking about are steering rack bushes. Is it possible that they need to be replaced ? Sometimes I can hear a scratching sound when turning on uneven road (I thought before that were shock absorbers upper mounts, but I replaced them). Maybe that bushes have an influence on a proper handling ? (Sorry if it is silly idea, but now I am thinking about everything). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted December 23, 2016 Report Share Posted December 23, 2016 No the rack bushings knock like a bugger rather than float.... If the castor has been adjusted and opposing then the toe adjustment would change the racks centre point and lock angle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luki78 Posted December 26, 2016 Report Share Posted December 26, 2016 I've just come back from 200 miles journey and I am exhausted. 80% was M1 motorway so it should be a piece of cake, but it wasn't. My fresh feelings are: 1. After my last wheel alignment the steering wheel is to far to the left. When going straight and keeping hands on 9 and 3 hours, my left hand is lower. OK, maybe the steering wheel is straight to the clocks but not to my sight, my point of view. I am very sensitive to that.2. Very poor response between 11 and 1 hour turning position. Literally I don't know what is going with wheels. When going straight at 60-70 miles/h I need to correct the track all the time with short movements to the left and right. I cannot even check the satnav for 1 sec. because I am leaving my lane and look like drunk driver. The ride is very stressful and I look at others drivers with envy. Citroen C1 or similar are more stable then my MX 5.3. When turning the steering wheel further than 11 and 1 hours, response is a little bit better. I can feel some information through my hands. I can feel the weight of the steering and the uneven surface.But even then it's not precise enough to make me feel confident.Every time when turning the wheel in the corner, my movement is to far (strong) or to close (weak). I can't "aim" in the right track. I must do some corrections all the time. So again I don't have enough response what wheels are doing. I am just writting my feelings for other user who can have similar problem in the future. Certainly, I will visit WIM very soon, seeking for help. After today's drive I've had thoughts "Maybe I should have bought Focus and have fun and relax ?". For a petrolhead the situation I have now is very frustraiting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMARTLY Posted December 26, 2016 Report Share Posted December 26, 2016 Sounds like you should not be driving it, to drive 80 miles when the car is as you describe seems foolish to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted December 27, 2016 Report Share Posted December 27, 2016 Oh dear...... I've had a similar complaint before where there's a catalogue of issues which change their forces when you drive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luki78 Posted December 27, 2016 Report Share Posted December 27, 2016 Oh dear...... I've had a similar complaint before where there's a catalogue of issues which change their forces when you drive? ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted December 27, 2016 Report Share Posted December 27, 2016 Complaint as in work carried out by other company's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luki78 Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 Right, 3 weeks after my visit in WIM car drives properly. Finally ! My angles are (with Eibach 30mm spring): Front: Camber Left - 0.57 Right - 0.53 Caster Left 6.32 Right 6.43 Toe Left 0.05 Right 0.05 Rear: Camber Left - 1.44 Right - 1.47 Toe Left 0.13 Right 0.06 Since that time I've done about 2000 miles and about 4000 since lower springs were fitted. Now the car sits 345 mm in rear and 340 mm in front. I've checked on this forum mazdaspeed settings and settings are a littl bit different: Front Camber is -1.20 whereas mine is - 0.57 Rear Camber is - 2.14 whereas mine is - 1.47 max I'm just wondering what would be the difference if my settings of cambers were like mazdaspeed suggests ? Would the car be even more stable when going straight ? I guess tyres' life would be shorter... Am I right ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luki78 Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 Yyy... no, I think more negative camber would give more grip when cornering, right ? But less stability on straight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 To much camber reduces the tyres contact patch as you corner. It's a fair assumption more camber adds more stability at speed but there's a critical reduction in the tyres saturation on turns. The lowering allows a negative camber whereas the OEM camber would have been positive, this alone improves handling, the need for more is sacrificial and deemed tuning for the track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luki78 Posted February 16, 2017 Report Share Posted February 16, 2017 Right, I'm going to replace a new wishbone on passenger side and of course I need an alignment once it is done. I've found a garage which claims that can set up my MX 5 like I want, I mean, the settings I will give them. So I'm going to give them as below (which was done in WIM previously) Front: Camber Left - 0.57 Right - 0.53 Caster Left 6.32 Right 6.43 Toe Left 0.05 Right 0.05 Rear: Camber Left - 1.44 Right - 1.47 Toe Left 0.13 Right 0.06 But my questions are: 1. The caster, I would like to have it on the same level (or as close as possible) should be rather closer to the 6.43 (like right front) or lower, like 6.32 ? The car is 340 mm in front. I found a post with 7.00 even 2. Now the car is stable at speed and I'm pleased with that feeling. But I wondering if the caster was about 5.70-6.00, would it be still stable when going straight or more nervous ? The reason I'm thinking about this is that the steering wheel is "heavy" now. And when turning in a long corner at speed I can feel that front wheels are trying to come back to the straight position. OK, I can live with that, but there is always a voice in my head "maybe it can be a little bit lighter but still stable on streight and fun in the corners" ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted February 16, 2017 Report Share Posted February 16, 2017 7 degrees is a bit high.. We would shoot for 6d 40'. If the steering is heavy at low speed then 5d 30' would help without making the steering twitchy at speed. Cars we set for short track/ sprint and so on have a castor of around 3d. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luki78 Posted February 16, 2017 Report Share Posted February 16, 2017 7 degrees is a bit high.. We would shoot for 6d 40'. If the steering is heavy at low speed then 5d 30' would help without making the steering twitchy at speed. Cars we set for short track/ sprint and so on have a castor of around 3d. Understood. Thanks. 5.30 if too heavy at low speed. What about 6.00 - exactly 6. I'm sorry if I'm annoying, I'm trying to understand all that issues with allignment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted February 16, 2017 Report Share Posted February 16, 2017 Your not annoying it's a difficult topic.... Basically the lower the castor the lighter the steering so 6 degrees is fine providing the cambers hit their target. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luki78 Posted February 16, 2017 Report Share Posted February 16, 2017 Your not annoying it's a difficult topic.... Basically the lower the castor the lighter the steering so 6 degrees is fine providing the cambers hit their target. So is it possible that to keep that camber which I have now, would be possible if castor was 5.30 but not if 6.00 ? Even if I have about 6.40 now (so quite close) ? Ehhh..... so many, many possibilities. Anyway, I don't want to bother you with my hesitations... What would you recommend If I want a little bit "lighter" steering wheel. I need to give them simple, ready numbers and so far your garage was the only one who I can relay on, but unfrotunately to far for me. Now is: Front: Camber Left - 0.57 Right - 0.53 Caster Left 6.32 Right 6.43 Toe Left 0.05 Right 0.05 Rear: Camber Left - 1.44 Right - 1.47 Toe Left 0.13 Right 0.06 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted February 16, 2017 Report Share Posted February 16, 2017 would set to Camber -50' Castor +5d 30' Toe + .5' Rear would remain the same.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luki78 Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 Thank you for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 Your welcome.... Let us know how things go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luki78 Posted February 18, 2017 Report Share Posted February 18, 2017 Your welcome.... Let us know how things go. I will. But if I am completely honest I'm not sure I will be "brave" enough to chech that 5.30. I mean, I've change the job, I do 1200 miles every month and only about 100 in town or twisty roads. The rest on dual carriageways. I can feel that front wheels are fighting with me on that few roundabouts I pass, trying to back to the straight position or when driving around the town and turning I feel like I must cross "a point" from which the steering is lighter. But when cruising I don't need even to keep the steering wheel because the car is so stable. And also I'm a little bit tired all that alignment issue. Within 6 months I did it 4 times so far. Spent 400 quids and now I can loose another 100 if the new settings won't be ok. I mean don't get me wrong. I really alrecciate your time spent answering me and your advice but I just don't know if I decide to set up 5.30 or stay with your settings done on WIM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted February 19, 2017 Report Share Posted February 19, 2017 5d 30' is still a mighty castor considering most cars only run about 3 degrees... When we set the car it was fine "correct?"... If so begs the question what happened between it being fine and now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luki78 Posted February 19, 2017 Report Share Posted February 19, 2017 Well, nothing has happened. Maybe I did more miles and got to know the car. The thing is that when I bought it I felt more fun when driving but unfortunately I had to change some parts and then did alignment in Kwik Fit and this was my big mistake. Anyway since then I can't stop thinking about Mx 5 handling. I read a lot of reviews old and new before I bought Mx5 and everybody praised it for handling and feelings so maybe I sticked in my mind that it will be like a Porsche Boxter or another supercar and expected to much, and result is now still moaning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted February 19, 2017 Report Share Posted February 19, 2017 Your expectations are well founded the NC's handling should be exemplary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.