RobPhoboS Posted April 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2015 I found this on another forum, to help with adjusting the anti roll bars - sounds like a reasonable way to figure out what's going on with it.Any thoughts on this chaps ? Find a large empty flat level car park. Take an object with you to use for a centring point like a cone or a chair. Put the car into a high gear and drive circles around the object. The steering should be clocked at a constant angle and you should not be making any adjustments to turn the car around in a circle. When you are driving, only look at the object in the centre of the circle. In a high gear, accelerate in a circle slowly until the tires start to howl. If they aren't making noise, you are not doing it right. If you are not keeping your eyes solidly in the centre of the circle, you are not skid-padding right. This is the point where you are reaching the limit of grip. The noise is the tires communicating this back to you. Keep your foot on the accelerator and go more into the gas. At this point, is the back starting to come around or the front starting to push when you exceed the limits of grip? If the back end is coming around under throttle at the limit, soften the rear bar. If the front is starting to push; then if you lift slightly on the throttle, does the front tighten back up? If it doesn't tighten back up, then either soften the front bar or stiffen the rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted April 16, 2015 Report Share Posted April 16, 2015 Ummmmm reads like the script from fast & furious..... In the real world we adjust the bar and test drive, if there's no change put it back and move to the other end of the car. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted April 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2015 Ummmmm reads like the script from fast & furious..... In the real world we adjust the bar and test drive, if there's no change put it back and move to the other end of the car. Yes it does, and you guessed it's from a US forum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parthiban Posted April 16, 2015 Report Share Posted April 16, 2015 Ummmmm reads like the script from fast & furious..... In the real world we adjust the bar and test drive, if there's no change put it back and move to the other end of the car. I thought the same thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted April 17, 2015 Report Share Posted April 17, 2015 A drift with a twist ...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted April 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2015 Hello hello !Well another weekend and tinkering/inspecting bits and pieces. New diff bushings ordered, and you can see my rear one has died and puked its guts up.If you look at the ARB and droplink, is that what we'd call 'preload' ?(I've ordered some adjustable droplinks F+R anyway) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted April 28, 2015 Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 That adjuster is maxed out as well........ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted January 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 I've not forgotten !I think I'll be ordering the DW rear camber arms next week, so will be back to get things sorted a bit more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 DW arms are really good and with great range.... A lot of the Drift guys use them although they are a bugger for coming loose.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted January 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2016 DW arms are really good and with great range.... A lot of the Drift guys use them although they are a bugger for coming loose.... Hey Tony, hope all is well mate. Would you think that is due to the forces they are putting their cars under, or something easily solved with the correct kind of thread lock glue (or even one of the nylon locking nuts?). I've not ordered anything yet but I know quite a lot of the guys on the 350z site tend to use Eibach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 I think it's down to shock because there's no bushings on the arms so the thread is under huge load..... we've not found a decent thread lock yet so best advice is to run a mark across the locking nuts so you have a visual clue they have come loose. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted January 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 Ah yep, that's a great idea.I'm getting some 'lock-out' washers to replace the camber adjustment bolts as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 That's a wise move.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted March 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2016 Argh, bit of a long wait at the moment.The rear camber arms that I ordered (from the US) arrived but they bloody forgot to pack the bolts and lockout washers which was the only reason I ordered them So, I'm waiting for these (although it's easy to buy some, trim the washers down to size), AND I also bought new SPL spherical bushings for the front compression rods and the front lower control arm (inner). Sooo I'm also waiting for these before heading back mate as the Superpro one is adjustable, and has some affect on caster iirc. However hopefully this should stop the stiction issues in these specific spots, plus the slow annihilation of my steering rack seals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted March 3, 2016 Report Share Posted March 3, 2016 Bugger, there's no other word for it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted March 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2016 Oooh one question I do have for you sir I have replacement toe bolts for the spring bucket arm, with the template to cut out a bit from the bracket. ie - like this: Looking at the previous amount of toe: Would you want me to do this before heading over if we require more toe adjustment ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 No that should be more than enough..... Historically the lower the tyre side wall the less toe-in would be used unless it's on super soft rubber and there's a need to gain rapid tyre temp. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted March 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 Great, cheers for that Tony. I'll have the bits with me in the car just in case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted April 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2016 Flipping heck... nearly there mate I've been waiting just over 5 freaking weeks for one part, never again. Anyway, the other monoball bushings arrived, ordered from Z1 in the states just 6 days ago and arrived this morning So the rear knuckle will have monoball, as well as the compression rod arm and I've already fitted the FLCA inner bushing, man that one alone has made a hugely positive difference. Bloody poly bushings aren't good in certain areas, causing far too much stiction, it was horrible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 Personally i'm not a fan of poly's. You need to be really careful you don't lock them in the pivot point otherwise they become pre-loaded, Powerflex seem prone to this.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted April 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2016 It's all here now !!! I'll be doing my best to get it all on and sorted this weekend.I'll book myself in ASAP, hopefully you guys can do a Saturday geo ??? Yes, I'd not advise anyone to use poly's either except in a couple of places where it's rotational only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liner33 Posted April 7, 2016 Report Share Posted April 7, 2016 If you are going to use poly bushes use good quality ones like Whiteline or Superpro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted April 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2016 If you are going to use poly bushes use good quality ones like Whiteline or Superpro Yep, both good companies. I have Whiteline on the diff, Torque Solutions on the transmission, Prothane on the steering rack. Currently with the Superpro on the compression rod but that's coming out tomorrow for SPL monoball. Booked in Saturday 16th Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted April 8, 2016 Report Share Posted April 8, 2016 It's going to a great geometry calibration 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted April 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 It's going to a great geometry calibration Good and bad news. Half of the job is done... half isn't So I called up and we've postponed by one week sir I had a slight issue with a ball joint nut spinning and spinning (even with an impact wrench plus some leverage), I gave up at 2:30am last night, in the rain So I've ordered a heavy duty G clamp, plus a ball joint separator (to use in a similar way by pressing down), AND a couple of new nuts if I have to cut the old. I had to make a little bushing puller/press as the design of the knuckle made it impossible to position with my hydraulic press: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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