Rich Posted February 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Nope nothing. I'm wondering if I'm getting paranoid! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parthiban Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Nope nothing. I'm wondering if I'm getting paranoid! It's easy to get that way, what's the manufacturer quoted figure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted February 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 I don't know, it's not in the handbook so need to find out. I'm sure it never used to do this though but I can't be 100% certain now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parthiban Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Might need a throttle body clean - had similar rev issues in the Lexus and the clean sorted it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted February 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Already done that, I think it helped a little bit with an ECU reset. It seem to be doing it under 40mph though so I think it's something else, if there actually is a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parthiban Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Have you also tried cleaning the idle regulator valve (or whatever it is called)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted February 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 I can't find it or the MAF sensor, I think it's electronically controlled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parthiban Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 I can't find it or the MAF sensor, I think it's electronically controlled. According to this it looks like it is part of the throttle body. http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-gen-problems-fixes/57705-weird-idle-problem-help.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickT Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 Have you cleaned out and checked the operation of the egr valve? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted February 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 I can't find it or the MAF sensor, I think it's electronically controlled. According to this it looks like it is part of the throttle body. http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-gen-problems-fixes/57705-weird-idle-problem-help.html Now that's interesting, not seen that thread yet. Assuming the engine on the TSX is exactly the same then it explains why I can't find the IACV if it's built into the throttle body. One thing I've read on another forum is that you shouldn't force the butterfly open yourself cos it's electric and can be damaged - is this true? Someone on that thread also suggests the drive by wire system could be causing this. Now I looked at the control unit when I adjusted the cable and it's riveted on so I can't remove it. I haven't cleaned any of the electrical connectors yet, should I use proper cleaner or is there anything else that I might already have, which I can use? I have read I could use neat IPA? It looks like the procedure I did the other day resets the drive by wire and not the ECU, but that's what I wanted to do anyway. The idle is better than what it was but I'm not sure if cleaning the throttle body helped that or resetting the system. I might take it off the car and give it a more thorough clean and check the gasket as well. I've only seen one throttle body on ebay so it looks like they don't come up that often. Have you cleaned out and checked the operation of the egr valve? I don't think it has one, I can't find it on the parts diagram. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted February 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 Another 2 months and it'll be time to take the winter wheels off. I am considering selling the 17s that the car came with depending on how much they are worth and getting some of these instead in a 16, which are the standard wheels the Accord usually comes with. Tyre cost there is about £20 difference between 205/55/16 and 225/45/17 but the 16s will be alot more comfortable for the missus. She commented on how much better the ride was when I put the winter wheels on, plus the 17s do tramline alot and I think eventually that will annoy me. Most of the mileage this car will do is going to be between April and September when we go away alot. The only thing with these wheels in the photo is they corrode badly so whatever set I get will almost certainly need a refurb, which is £200, plus tyres if they're needed straightaway. Two of the tyres on the 17s need replacing before they go back on so I need to decide what I'm going to do. If I do get 16s I might be able to lower the car and still keep the ride comfortable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parthiban Posted February 11, 2014 Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 Personally I'd keep the 17s, the size suits the car more. Tramlining will be slightly increased with the lower profile, but I really don't think that profile difference is enough - 205/55 is 112.75mm and 225/45 is 101.25 so the difference is just 1cm. I've found that the geo and particular tyres make more difference than the size of the wheel - my car on 18s with the Michelins tramlines less than on 17s with Bridgestone tyres (I'm talking about the Lexus here!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted February 11, 2014 Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 Toe tendency Rich, do you remember that lesson. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parthiban Posted February 11, 2014 Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 Toe tendency Rich, do you remember that lesson. Had to google that, and came across this - must admit I don't really get it though http://www.wheels-inmotion.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=949 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted February 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 I might get 500 miles from the tread that is remaining on 2 of the tyres so will give them another try, they are P6000 though, which probably aren't the best tyre for this car. I have found out what they're called now but I don't think I will get much for them on ebay, maybe £150 tops as they're in almost mint condition. Toe tendency Rich, do you remember that lesson. Had to google that, and came across this - must admit I don't really get it though http://www.wheels-inmotion.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=949 I read that a long time ago and I agree I don't really understand it - what does that have to do with tramlining? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parthiban Posted February 11, 2014 Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 I might get 500 miles from the tread that is remaining on 2 of the tyres so will give them another try, they are P6000 though, which probably aren't the best tyre for this car. I have found out what they're called now but I don't think I will get much for them on ebay, maybe £150 tops as they're in almost mint condition. I don't think P6000s are a good benchmark on which to decide whether to change the wheels - this thread is quite amusing: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=916356 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted February 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 I don't think P6000s are a good benchmark on which to decide whether to change the wheels - this thread is quite amusing: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=916356 Maybe I am jumping the gun abit! On the Civic these tyres have been fine, had none of the issues most complain about. Maybe it's the weight of the Accord that makes them behave alot differently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parthiban Posted February 11, 2014 Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 I'd expect that chassis setup is probably a bit sportier on the accord too? That could be why the tyres feel different on this car compared to the civic. Put a comfort sport oriented tyre on it and it'll probably be a lot better. I've always liked Dunlops as a good compromise between cost, comfort and performance. Never had any issues with the SP Sport 9000s on the Lexus nor with the SP Sport 01s on the Merc. But not sure how they'd suit the FWD accord though, I guess you'll need to do some research across the forums to see what people recommend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-O Posted February 11, 2014 Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 I've had p6000's a few times on various cars - none of them through my own choice. On my old Fiesta Zetec S they were diabolical. Never had such a bad tyre. I happen to have the unfortunate situation that i have 4 almost new p6000's on the S3. I've not really tested them on this car with any anger but i would expect the following : mediocre dry grip and plenty of tyre squeal, and almost ice like handling in damp/wet conditions.... Theres no excuse really - especially when there are other tyres in the price range that would destroy them in most areas. I'm a big fan of goodyear eagle f1's and used them on a few cars. The latest being my A4 estate.They have been superb in every application. They might be a bit more per corner but you get a lot of value back out of them in terms of confidence and ride quality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted February 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 I've been reading reviews of the Dunlops, seem like good tyres for the money and I really like the winter ones on the Civic. I much prefer them to the Goodyears I had on the Corolla. The suspension is different to the Corolla, that just had a single wishbone whereas the Accord also has an upper one. The handling was very good on the 17s I have to admit. Abit more roll on the 16s as the aspect ratio is higher, plus the drop link needs replacing, which can't be helping. Think I need to have a good read before I make a decision... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam_r Posted February 12, 2014 Report Share Posted February 12, 2014 Rich. A good set of tyres on 17's will change your mind ;-). I ran vred ultrac sessantas ( around £70 per tyre) and they where amazing on the accord. Superb wet weather handling, unbelievable traction in the dry, and hardly any tramline tenancy. The p6000 -s are flipping awful tyres.. ditch finders and fecking dangerous they are too! I sold my 17's and stuck with 16's because: 1) purchasing 2 sets of tyres became rather costly over tiem 2) storage was an issue 3) lack of money. in all honesty, if I had more funds available I would have kept them as you could really throw the accord in to corners and it was like a big gokart. The suspension on the accord is wonderful if set properly and you have a decent wheel and tyre combo. yes the ride was firmer but I ran 225/45/17's on an xl load rating so not surprising really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted February 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2014 Those Vreds are cheap, always wanted to try them but the tread pattern is asymmetrical, which is suppose to be the worse for tramlining. What makes me laugh is the P6000 is more expensive than these! If I do stick with the 17s I'll put the P6000s on the rear and the new tyres on the front. The cost difference isn't much between the 2 sizes so I'm not too bothered about that. It did corner well when I had them on, surprisingly well for an estate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam_r Posted February 12, 2014 Report Share Posted February 12, 2014 I would never put vreds on the front and ditchfinders on the rear... you will end up spinning during emergency braking. The vreds do look weirs but they work incredibly well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted February 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 Back to this idle issue I might have. I've noticed it has improved a little since it first started/resetting the ECU and after driving the car yesterday afternoon when the ambient temperature is warmer than the early morning/late evening drives it was even better. I have also driven the car a few times in semi auto mode, which seems better than full auto mode. I'm not sure why that is, maybe it's down to the fact I probably change gear at higher rpms? I would never put vreds on the front and ditchfinders on the rear... you will end up spinning during emergency braking. The vreds do look weirs but they work incredibly well If I put them on the front they will wear more quickly though, which means having to pay out for another pair of tyres soon after the first pair. It's not exactly a sports car and I won't be throwing it into the corners so it should be fine hopefully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-O Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 Interesting... so the car drives better/worse dependant on the air temperature. Could be a faulty sensor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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