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Rich's 2003 Honda Accord 2.4 Tourer Auto


Rich
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That will be fine. I used the same brand from toolstation but their automotive wax aerosol on my coilover threads last week and it was good gear!

 

Good stuff, it's a bargain compared to Halfrauds! :D

 

I'll make a list of other things I need, no point driving to Watford just for that though. Actually I will just order online, free delivery on orders over a £10 :)

 

I wonder if their penetrating oil is any good.

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I am sure its fine as well.

 

Not sure if its any help but i am going over to wim this arvo, i can stop past the hemel toolstation and pick some carb cleaner up?

 

Thanks for the offer mate but I'll just order it online and use what I have for now, it should be enough for a quick clean :)

 

Could also be the lambda sensor

 

Wouldn't that put the CEL on though? Although I've mainly been doing town driving the car does seem to be getting through this tank of fuel abit quicker!

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£15 for a lambda , they are service items and should be changed every 5 years on most cars , you need to look at the wiring and see how many wires you have a splice a pattern one in

 

From where? Cheapest I've found is £98 front and £128 rear.

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Interesting link, I'll look into that if/when I need one, certainly save a few quid doing it that way.

 

I cleaned the throttle body yesterday, there was quite abit of gunk around the butterfly and to me it didn't look like it was shut properly. There was a very slight gap and I could push the flap to close it right up - does this sound normal?

 

I couldn't find the MAF, there is a round sensor on the intake hose next to the throttle body but I thought they were next to the airbox? There is also a MAP sensor but that looked fine. I was looking for the throttle cable but couldn't find it and then realised the Accord uses drive-by-wire so I need to locate it and the sensor to give that a clean, I'll also adjust the cable if there is any slack. I'm sure there is a very slight lag between pressing the pedal and the car moving.

 

It was starting to rain and get dark yesterday so I put everything back together and left it. It didn't start until the second try this morning, obviously from being disturbed but it seemed abit better on the drive to work. The rest of this week when I've got there the car was idling at 650rpm in neutral or drive. Today it was 950rpm in neutral and 750rpm in drive - not sure why the former was higher? I don't think these engines have an ICV, it learns to set the idle itself so I might need to do an ECU reset.

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Yeah I thought so but then I also thought they were self learning so it should overwrite what it's already learnt. I'll do it over the weekend when I do the cable and sensor. The correct procedure seems to be - reset the ECU, start the car and let it idle at 3k rpm until the fans kick in twice and then turn the engine off, it should then learn the new idle speed.

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re. the throttle body - are there any allen bolts or something where you can either adjust the butterfly position or perhaps a stopper that stops the linkage from retracting too far back? Thinking there might be a way to adjust it somehow. I dont think it should ever be completely shut as such but on the same hand it shouldn't be massively open.

 

The idle thing is propbably down to disturbing everything and ECU reset wont hurt. Whats the standard idle on those anyway 650 sounds a bit low? I think 800-900 is the norm on a lot of cars?

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re. the throttle body - are there any allen bolts or something where you can either adjust the butterfly position or perhaps a stopper that stops the linkage from retracting too far back? Thinking there might be a way to adjust it somehow. I dont think it should ever be completely shut as such but on the same hand it shouldn't be massively open.

 

The idle thing is propbably down to disturbing everything and ECU reset wont hurt. Whats the standard idle on those anyway 650 sounds a bit low? I think 800-900 is the norm on a lot of cars?

 

Not that I could see and there is no linkage, just a sensor, it's drive-by-wire so the cable isn't connected to the butterfly. Not had this system on a car before so it had me baffled at first.

 

I didn't do the idle procedure when I first got the car and was having battery problems, I charged it up a couple of times and then replaced it so that would've reset the ECU each time. It seemed to fine the idle with just normal driving.

 

I'm trying to find out what the idle should be but I think it's 750-850rpm, 650rpm is definitely too low.

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Yeah I thought so but then I also thought they were self learning so it should overwrite what it's already learnt. I'll do it over the weekend when I do the cable and sensor. The correct procedure seems to be - reset the ECU, start the car and let it idle at 3k rpm until the fans kick in twice and then turn the engine off, it should then learn the new idle speed.

It will self learn but it will take a while

 

Usually ECU reset is , disconnect battery pump brake pedal and leave for 15 mins , start car with everything electrical off and let idle for 15 mins , then switch everything on and let idle again , then drive as normal

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Yeah I thought so but then I also thought they were self learning so it should overwrite what it's already learnt. I'll do it over the weekend when I do the cable and sensor. The correct procedure seems to be - reset the ECU, start the car and let it idle at 3k rpm until the fans kick in twice and then turn the engine off, it should then learn the new idle speed.

It will self learn but it will take a while

 

Usually ECU reset is , disconnect battery pump brake pedal and leave for 15 mins , start car with everything electrical off and let idle for 15 mins , then switch everything on and let idle again , then drive as normal

 

 

I've read so many ways of doing it, another is to turn the ignition on with all electrics off, hold the accelerator pedal down for 10 seconds, then turn the ignition off. I have no idea if that actually works on my car. Some prefer the battery way, some pull the fuses.

 

What does pumping the brake do?

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discharges whats left in the system maybe ?

 

In the past all i have ever done i pulled the battery for 10 mins and then connected and driven as normal. Not sure if yours needs the process above it certainly wont harm doing all of that.

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I think holding the accelerator pedal down for 10 seconds does work cos it seemed to bugger the idle up even more until I reset the ECU again and left it to idle before driving. The car idles between 650-750rpm now depending what electrics are on, but it never fluctuates. In neutral is sits a little higher at 850rpm.

 

Up until 40mph it just doesn't feel as smooth and the revs drop sometimes, almost feels like they're too low for the gear it's in/speed it's doing. It's not dropping to as low as 650rpm now like it was but still doing it. Above 40mph and it feels fine, the revs don't drop at all. With cruise control on the revs don't fluctuate and they might change slightly if I'm controlling the throttle.

 

I'm wondering if it might be related to the gearbox now, possibly the sensor. The oil was changed 25k miles ago (genuine fluid) and isn't due for another 25k but I think I will change it anyway.

 

I also checked the throttle cable and there seemed to be alot of slack in it but only about 2 turns left on the adjuster. It now has about 5mm of slack after adjusting it but is this still too much?

 

If it was things like the lambda sensor, vacuum leak etc wouldn't it affect the car at all speeds?

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Just to add I don't think the car is over fuelling now. I have just filled up and got 21mpg from this tank but that was 85% town driving, maybe slightly more so seems reasonable. The Civic only does mid 20s around town with all the stop/start driving the missus does!

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