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Rich

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Everything posted by Rich

  1. Nice one :graduated: Just an idea but now that we can upload images how about creating a section dedicated to just images? Keeps them all in the same place then...
  2. Do you think I would need some of these on a 30mm drop? I'm assuming they're aimed at mondeos that have been lowered 40mm plus as the camber will be worse? The springs I'm getting are the ones Ford uses if you choose the sports suspension package and they're compatible with standard shocks. I was reading an old post of yours on MEG regarding wishbone wear and lowering the car. As I'm lowering mine 30mm do you think I wouldn't have to change them as often? I was under the impression that the lower a car is the more pressure you're putting on them so they wear quicker?
  3. If they can afford a car like that, they can afford the 40K loss. Nice motor though...
  4. I think I've seen a pic of these somewhere, but that's abit steep! Still I'm only going 30mm so hopefully I'll be ok...
  5. Depends how much they are though! Any idea of a price Tony? Too be honest I haven't suffered with any tyre wear on the car since I've had it which is surprising with the problems I've had suspension wise. I'm hoping to be getting the Eibach springs tomorrow so that will lower the car 30mm, might start seeing some slight wear then!
  6. Here you go mate - enquiries@wheels-inmotion.co.uk
  7. When Tony did my geo he heated it up to adjust it. Or are we talking about the nut that holds it onto the hub as you obviously can't heat that up, but then why would it need to be just to make an adjustment? My MOT passed as well and you can see where it's been heated...
  8. Rich

    Lowering a car

    The bloke has already sold them, didn't take them off the site Still I get me car back tomorrow, all fixed now, been hell the last 2 weeks without it...
  9. Rich

    Lowering a car

    What if the paint is flaking/peeling off is this an indication that they might be older than stated? Someone on MEG put some pics up of their Eibach springs they had changed after doing 220K miles, the difference in height between those and the new ones was minimal. No harm in looking at them, as long I they supply some sort of guarantee I'd be able to take them back hopefully if I feel they're not right. But then with my luck I'd probably be better of buying new...
  10. Rich

    Lowering a car

    Yeah I know that's why I didn't wanna go lower than 30mm. I've also been told that the more weight you have in the car the firmer the springs should get so it won't appear much lower with a full load. I've found some Eibach 30mm V6/TD springs second hand for 75quid. The same ones new I've found for 165quid. Now these are from a shop as well so should be able to view them. What do you need to look for when buying second hand springs? From what I've read though these Eibach ones seem to be very good...
  11. Rich

    Lowering a car

    Well I have had a full boot, an adult, child and 2 dogs in the back when I go away. The arch lip is just above the tyre then. So when there's 2 in the front as well I'd imagine it's very low. I've only just decided to lower it though so never paid much attention to the clearance. Never had any banging etc and I drive 300 miles like this, plus there's a few nasty speed bumps I go over. Those pyramid shaped ones made of rubber. I may have found some 30mm V6 springs I can use as they shouldn't compress anymore than what they're suppose to, but they're 50quid more!
  12. Rich

    Lowering a car

    I get you now, good idea Means I'd have to remove another pinch bolt, just hope it don't snap like both front ones!! :ph34r_anim:
  13. Rich

    Lowering a car

    Not sure what you mean mate? Or do you mean compress them while on the car?
  14. Rich

    Lowering a car

    I want to lower mine and I'm gonna get some 40mm springs. Cos these are also for the petrol versions they lower the TD by about 50-60mm cos of the extra weight. Now me wheels have an offset of 35 (the minimum for ford wheels). I think the rear tyres will catch on the arch lip from visually looking but I can't be sure. Is there anyway I can check whether they will catch before I buy them?
  15. Untill the wim shop folder is finished all sales are though the parent http://www.tdi-plc.com/ same price different location. No ford section on there!
  16. Cool will have a gander in abit
  17. Can you buy direct from them as I've been looking at some lowering springs from them? It looks like you can't though looking at the site...
  18. Rich

    Tyre wear

    Bloody hell But there was something faulty on the car in this case, I've replaced/am upgrading everything so it shouldn't get as bad as that surely... Think I remember you mentioning that when I had the geo done last year. I'm not bothered if I get abit of wear as I'll just swap them for the rears when I've replaced them. Don't know why but everything happens before I go away, first the subframe problem, then I think it was the CV joint and then the current problem!!
  19. Rich

    Tyre wear

    I've had everything off suspension/steering wise from the front and I'm planing on fitting lowering springs, replacing the track rod ends and I will probably be getting new driveshaft/cv joints if it isn't my diff that is going. I probably won't have everything done for a month or so, maybe longer and I'm going on holiday in 3-4 weeks. I think I will cover about 1000 miles by the time I get another geo done. So how long does it take for signs of tyre wear to start showing? I would have obviously lost my fine tune settings but if the car doesn't pull or drift could I still get some uneven wear? I know there is no definate answer but I'm just curious so I have an idea of how long to leave it before I get the geo done again. The tyres on the front are fairly new and I don't wanna start seeing bald edges etc. The rears are down to 2-3mm so if I put these on the front and the new ones on the rear would they still wear as I haven't done any work on the rear yet?
  20. I will try that way next time Not putting my splitter anywhere near them in future!!
  21. I've seen someone use a pole before and tried meself but it wouldn't budge! Now that I've got new ones on hopefully they'll come out easier if I do it that way. Yeah but the lower ball joint needs taking out to change the CV joint! Ideally needs to come out for changing the shocks as well although you can just get them in if you hold the arm down. The only trouble with that is I'm worried I'd be putting too much strain on the bushes. As the ball joint rubber is only held on with 2 spring clips I thought there might have been replacements for a quid or two. Won't be changing it just yet then! Cheers will bear that in mind for when I change it again
  22. It seems that everytime I try to split one of these I end up buggering the rubber around it. When I was working on the car yesterday I managed to split the rubber on the lower arm ball joint. I only fitted it last week!! I've got one of those fork shaped splitters and it doesn't matter how careful I am or how many rags I put around the rubber it splits. So am I doing it wrong or should I be using a different tool? What other splitters can you get? And can you get new rubbers for the ball joints, save me forking out another 20quid on a new arm?
  23. sorry to here your g/box has gone now m8.mondeos there a never ending headache.but we love,em dearly It's a pain, especially as I'm going on holiday in 4 weeks and need the car to get there. Means I gotta get the gearbox done now along with everything else I had planned for the next couple of weeks! Still once it's done it shouldn't need doing again for as long as I have the car (touch wood!)...
  24. Well as you know looks like I need a new gearbox now but I WON'T let this car defeat me!
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