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discount tyres dan

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Everything posted by discount tyres dan

  1. a friend of mine had a 1966 mustang that had a valve on it that look very old, after the down pipe there was a 'Y' shaped section, one branch went through the rest of the system and the other side was blanked off with a removable plate, once the plate was removed there was obviously a lot less restriction but a lot more noise too. ok so it had to be done manualy but it must be the same idea, normal driving with the plate on.. track days.. plate off
  2. i had a play i came up with this for the is250. if it is rear wheel drive then only the front toe is adjustable but if it is 4 wheel drve the front camber is also adjustable using off-set washers on the lower arms
  3. i dug out an old print out, this came from a car with 1400 miles on the clock. the first is the before readings http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=3513555 the second is the after http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=3513554
  4. i'll have a fiddle tommorow to see what is adjustable
  5. elongate the hole at the strut top mount bit a of a bodge i know i wouldnt recomend it but my mates civic is lowered 90mm on 15" rims and the camber was almost horizontal!! sits great now.
  6. a replacment hub with the bit i pointed out before not there but a socket instead to take 'arms' with different angles , expensive but not permanant you would be restricted to maybe 4 or 5 different angles but once he hub is fitted it can stay there and then you just change the part between the hub and t/r/e depending on needs.
  7. what about some way of having the rack arms shortening as they turn? maybe some sort of telescopic idea?
  8. but the distance and angle between the pivot point and the rack arm has changed. same effect as keeping the rack still but moving the pivot point, just that moving the rack effects a lot less angles
  9. not sure of its exact name but the part of the hub where the track rod end goes into, what if you were to change the angle of this part, would tht change anything? this bit
  10. if i hadnt seen a geometry report i would check to see if the wheels are the correct offset (including spacers if fitted) check for any signs of damage to strutt and hub assemblys (cracked paint could indicate a bend somewhere) also if the car has been lowered wthout being adjusted this could throw the IA out. if i had a geom report obviosly this would be a lot easier, the easiest to ajust would be camber to point the bottom of the wheel at the point the kpi meets the road. early fiesta's and golfs are great examples when lowered, the camber goes all over the place
  11. as if the wheels werent attached to anything, the car would tram-line in ruts, self centering of the steering wheel was non existant and i needed a crow bar to turn the steering at low speeds
  12. ohhh i think i know.. i learnt the hard way when i put 205/60 13 capri wheels on my escort mark3. the offset was totaly different.. tiny steering wheel didnt help much either
  13. id put a tenner in too.. plus you dont need a car.. just stick it on retention!
  14. A16 EOM is also available A1 6EOM A1 GEOM? £189
  15. T40 NGX is up for sale for £190 T40NG X
  16. i have see jules's car at southend outside one of the clubs, he has a mate who's plate is D1SCO
  17. i have recently purhased myself a private plate M12 DTP with the 1 and 2 close in tooks like MR DTP.. its on retention until the paper comes through then i can use it for real!! have you seen any funny ones or famous ones? have seen POT 147 (steve davis) about 15 years ago though and MAG 1C (paul daniels) another one that always ticks in my mind was on a jaguar.. any guesses as to what it says? BUL 541T
  18. i had a similar problem on a peugeot 406 estate today, except on the rears, the rattle spring is suposed to sit on the inside of one pad and the outside of another. the car came in with no pedel on the first pump then good brakes. because the clip was inside both pads. pushing them back towards the caliper and pushing the piston in.
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