MLAM

That's most disappointing considering how long they spent on my car. I guess I could say the car drifts to the right and I feel it's coming from the rear which should give them no excuse? That's a very good point as I forgot that coils sag, this example is low miles at 23k. Would having more negative camber on the front help with steering lightness? As Rich mentioned does it matter about the Caster?

Hi Tony, Thanks for your reply, when you say it is too upright do you mean the before or after adjustments? The car DID have run flats but I've just changed them to 4x New Michelin PS4 Non Run Flats. What problems would I have? I did think that too but I did see the system and it looked like a Hunter System with its high mounted lasers and the wheel mounts. The Spec for a JCW I found to be this: Front camber -0 degrees 30 minutes Rear camber -1 degree 45 minutes Toe in front +0 degrees 12 minutes Toe in rear +0 degrees 24 minutes So to me it is the rear camber to be a bit off. What could I say to them for them to re do it as they seem quite sure it is done to within spec? Thanks for the help so far

Hi all I got my wives R56 JCW aligned today at a German Specialist who also have a Hunter 4 Wheel Alignment System (They got it in recently) I got 4x New Michelin Pilot Sport 4 fitted Yesterday at Costco and did approx 20 miles on the old alignment settings as this place is near my home. I turned up to the place and handed my key over while they did their business, the guy I spoke to on the phone yesterday and the reception lady today both said the car gets weighted up as per BMW spec however I cannot confirm if they did as I couldn't see the car. Anyway after about 30 mins she shows me the measurements and shows the rear toe and camber being out which in turn will need to do the front so cost will be full 4 wheel alignment and she said everything will be nice and central. A good hour later the car I see gets taken out and goes for a road test then a quick wash, once it gets back she shows me the after results and I see the cambers are not central but are "Within spec", I queried it and she said it isn't possible to get the camber all even. I said I'll see how I get on and paid up and left, but just wanted to get Tony's or any other seasoned experts view on this? My concern is the rear left camber is reasonably deeper than the right now AFTER adjustment. I did take it for a short drive afterwards and it seems to drive ok, maybe down to the road (poor surface Motorway) I did get the feeling it pulled to the right a little. Below are two pictures of before and after: Any information appreciated

Thanks for the detailed post above Tony, In regards to the red dot, should the valve on an alloy wheel be placed OPPOSITE side of the red dot? What about if the tyre only has a red dot?

Hi Tony, thanks for the reply, It was my local mechanic place who redid the balancing, there machine is just a standard Sun Tyre Balancer. Would this machine be up to the job or would you advise I find someone with a Computerised machine like a Hoffman Megaplan or Corghi? Do you think also where I have rotated the tyres it would have an effect due to wear patterns?

Hi all, I've recently had my car serviced and I had the wheels rotated from left to right on each axel (as I have a staggered setup). I have Kumho KU39's so they are non directional tyre. I noticed noticeable vibration from 65MPH onwards, I had the wheels rebalanced and it is a lot better but still notice a vibration from about 70MPH now. Would this be down to the rotating of the tyres or a balance issue still? I have never noticed it before the service, the only other thing I had done was the Front Rear Control Arm bushes so would there be a possibility that now this has tightened up feel it would amplify anything that my old worn out bushes may have not noticed? Any advise appreciated.

Does this add to both directional tyres too? I had some new tyres fitted today and the tyre markings are both fitted to the right.

Hi Tony, Thank you very much for the detailed reply. Looks like some others have asked a question I was going to ask also I've attached a picture of the car, I know W211's are a tad nose heavy but to me my dads one seems excessive. The previous owner said he replaced the rear springs last year with MB ones, he has not replaced the front ones in his ownership. My local MB parts guy initially said it does look nose heavy but then another W211 parked up and it did not look a million miles off our one....

Thanks for confirming Tony, What would cause the rear toe to go out of spec? This tyre specialist place also said the rear toe isn't adjustable so they would have left it they said....

Thanks for the reply guys. Tony, the fronts aside, is the rear camber and toe adjustable on these cars or are they fixed? The rear toe looks out too as does the O/S Camber.

Great bit of information this is! Tony, I assume the bit about the lines apply to the rear tyres too if they are being fitted also?

Hi all, WIM may have seen this already on another forum but I thought I'd post it here to get more feedback. The car in question is a Mercedes E220 CDi Avantgarde Auto Saloon (facelift) Please note the tyres have yet to be replaced and they are worn heavily on the inside, the car has been inspected by a MB Specialist and they have given it the thumbs up in regards to mechanical condition Below is a picture of a 4 wheel alignment report done on a John Bean system Now the guy who did the report said Castor readings are not needed hence no reading, he also stated the front camber is within spec which I beg to differ and only the front toe is adjustable on these cars. The camber looks a million miles out to me but I am unsure how much can be pulled back in. any feedback appreciated. Thanks